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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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37" tires and 2.5" BB lift - WORST RIDING JEEP EVER!

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Old 10-20-2013, 03:27 AM
  #81  
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Its the 20" wheels and sorry but who would do that to a crawler

check out my youtube channel.... motorcycleguy199
Old 10-20-2013, 06:42 AM
  #82  
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Not everyone is a rock crawler bouncing off rocks, so 20's are certainly appropriate for some applications.


The OP has replied.....3 times in addition to the initial 2 posts, I think he's more concerned with getting the flame suit on than checking back to see the hate and shit slinging.

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Old 10-20-2013, 08:42 AM
  #83  
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Ran 33s on my stock 18s and it drove fine. Switched to 16s on 35s and drives better. Running 30psi and its smooth. Although other factors play into ride quality. Control arms, alignment, shocks, springs etc.

Running 22.5s on 37s with my F450. Now that rides like a tank. My jeep is a cadillac compared to my work truck.
Old 10-20-2013, 10:16 AM
  #84  
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I swear as soon as you guys read 20" wheels you all become dicks

Vette you are welcome to come run my wheels if you want , I run 37/13.50/20 on a 10" wheel

To the OP I think most of you issues are used tires and toe , if you didn't fix your toe with the new wheels do it and getting used tires will carry their own issues because you don't know how the person treated them before . So your front tires can have different wear patterns and that could be playing a part also

37s on 20s is more sidewall then 32s on 17s , I have be dealing with people who always down my 20s until I take out a tape measure and start measuring sidewall , granted wheel width and actual tire size will play a lot into how much sidewall you have but just come out and dissing someone because they have 20s

And my jeep drives great and handles well



I even carry one on the rear

Last edited by jaker t5; 10-20-2013 at 10:24 AM.
Old 10-20-2013, 01:52 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by planman
The now discontinued ProComp Extreme AT 37x13.50R20 is a load range E tire designed for an ubber heavy full size truck.

The tire width at the bead is 10". The maximum width spec for wheels should be 11". The OP is running a 12" wide wheel.

If he really wants to keep the tires, he could try a 20x9 wheel and run the tires at about 28 psi. The ride will still be very stiff, but not as bad as running too wide a wheel than is spec for the tire.
good stuff right here.
Old 10-20-2013, 02:17 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by jaker t5
I swear as soon as you guys read 20" wheels you all become dicks

To the OP I think most of you issues are used tires and toe , if you didn't fix your toe with the new wheels do it and getting used tires will carry their own issues because you don't know how the person treated them before . So your front tires can have different wear patterns and that could be playing a part also

37s on 20s is more sidewall then 32s on 17s , I have be dealing with people who always down my 20s until I take out a tape measure and start measuring sidewall , granted wheel width and actual tire size will play a lot into how much sidewall you have but just come out and dissing someone because they have 20s
Thanks.. I think you and Planman are right. Suspension geometry shouldn't change enough so that I'm white knuckling it at speeds greater than 70km/h simply with different tires. Makes sense, these tires were $200 and I wanted to see if 37's would work with my lifestyle (ie: parkade, daily driver, 98% city/2% highway driving). I definitely like the look of a wide wheel.. but shitting my pants on the highway isn't worth the thumbs up from all my "hommies" and "Bros". Happy you guys chimed in before I started tossing the credit card down for a re-worked suspension.

Nice to have intelligent comments on here! Appreciate it.
Old 10-20-2013, 02:51 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by D_engel
a 15.5" wide tire is 15.5" wide regardless of what rim you put them on. Having a narrower rim is going to make the tire appear to bulge more, but ultimately the tread is going to be the same width. Like I stated before, the wider (bulging) sidewall is going to conform to whatever hazardous, tire shredding obstacles you drive through much better than with the same tire on a wider rim. Only difference is that not only will you tear open your sidewall, you will also destroy your $300+ fancy 20x12" rims. I understand the point you were trying to make, I am just informing you that it is completely wrong.
So in conclusion thumps up in 37/12.50x15
Like I say???
Old 10-20-2013, 04:12 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by brankz
So in conclusion thumps up in 37/12.50x15 Like I say???
I'd love to run me some 37x12.5x15's!!!! (Or 13.5)
Old 10-20-2013, 04:22 PM
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I like Bacon
Old 10-20-2013, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kh202
I'd love to run me some 37x12.5x15's!!!! (Or 13.5)
37x12.50R15 (Loved those tires on and offroad. They were light--didn't drain performance. They aired down well to give amazing, tank track like traction. They were load range C--so they weren't stiff riding. With about 3-4 psi in them, I could drive on top of deep mountain snow without sinking--almost like a snowmobile track.)




My wife asked me to swap them to her rig because they rode so well.




If I could fit them over the upgraded brakes on my wife's rig, she'd have 37x14.50r15 Toyo MTs on 15x10 wheels.


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