Dubz

So, after looking at numerous write ups and such for DIY bedliners I have a couple of questions that have not been answered. I have no doubt about my ability to take the interior apart or do the spray on (painted a few motorcycles/atvs). But my questions are:

1. What do you guys use to get that ugly, not sure what it is, sound deadening material off? It looks haphazardly applied, can I just heat gun it and scrape or is there a better way?

2. Do you use regular 3M tape or a special heavy duty tape?

3. I read about hitting the footwells with Rustoleum rattle can. Is that before or after a spray on? (planning to use Raptor)

Thanks in advance for all the help.

kooglesk

I recently bedlined mine with the herculiner and did a couple different things to get that stuff off. First I flooded the front, that seemed to really soften it up and make it possible to simply scrap it off with a putty knife.
Second I heated it with a torch in the back and then scrapped it off. this got the big parts off.
Next I took a grinder with a wire wheel and really went to town followed by a dremel tool and sanding disc to get the little hard to reach places.

That stuff sucks and the dust went everywhere, probably best to wear a mask in a well ventilated area.

I used regular 3m masking tape and it worked well in some areas but I let a few places dry to much and it had to be cut off with a knife.

Paint before you apply, make sure to let it dry and remove any rust that might have occured.


Hope this helps, take you time do the prep right, good luck

Rooster76

I have a write up called ->https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/ It sound like you may have gone through it.

1. What do you guys use to get that ugly, not sure what it is, sound deadening material off? It looks haphazardly applied, can I just heat gun it and scrape or is there a better way?

Heat seems to be the new favorite way (vs chiseling). A blow torch will speed up the process from what I have read. I wouldn't even try a hair dryer. It needs to be very hot. With my heat gun set to its highest setting I would heat up a area about the size of 2 hands or so for about 15-20 seconds. It will then peel up easily in about 3" chunks. They will be pretty hot so you might want to wear gloves. Other ways that I posted in the link above are


After you remove it make sure to spray in some self-etching primer over the bare metal. It states you need to do that in the instructions. You only need one coat, and it is not ideal to use the self-etching primer over too much of the painted surfaces.


If you notice the stuff on the right wall in the picture above. There is that 1" wide stuff that is a calk more then the heat/sound goop. If you remove that calk also your going to want to replace it with some silicone. Just a side note I didn't put any liner on that side wall because it is covered mostly by the plastic door piece.

2. Do you use regular 3M tape or a special heavy duty tape?
You can use standard blue painter tape. You want to remove it about an hour after the second coat. That was about 3 hours after I started spraying. You don't want to let it sit all night before removing. I used the green "frog tape" brand around the door sills because it is rumored to have a tighter line.


3. I read about hitting the footwells with Rustoleum rattle can. Is that before or after a spray on? (planning to use Raptor)
I would first spray it first in the footwells, the deep crannies around the center console, in the jack hole, if it's a 2 door just a touch under the rear seat retaining rings, and on vertical surfaces (perpendicular to what your going to be spraying). Then I would let it dry for an hour or so before spraying the raptor.

That said it's not how I did mine, but how I would do it if I was to do it again. I used the rustoleum bedline spray as a bit of a touch up after the first coat to make sure I got all the areas well covered. There is only one little area where I missed covering the touch up spots on the second coat with raptor. You can tell because the can spray has less of a glossy finish.

Besides those questions, my number on tip is to make sure you get all the clear coat nice and dull/removed before spraying. I used 120 grit and it worked pretty good. You can also get the red scotch brite pads.

Good Luck, Your going to love it after your done.

mstrofpuppets

I noticed in your write that you sprayed over the bed rail in the back where the hardtop sits....are you running a hardtop or just a soft and if so does the liner effect the seal in any way? Thanks, it looks great!

kage kicker

Ensure you post up with good or bad results.

Rooster76

I'm running the soft-top now. The liner is about a 1/16" and doesn't make a difference with the windows. They work just as good. I just put in the liner this summer and haven't put on the hardtop. I did read it will work on mark9998's thread.
(post# 54 and 58 direct link->https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...6/#post2093704)

Dubz

Rooster - Thanks for all the info (your step by steps and answers)

I look forward to having a free weekend to do all of this. I will definitely post pics of the process.

What should I be looking for on YouTube to find the dry ice method?

Rooster76

I would try to do as much prep that you can before the weekend you spray. It takes a good amount of time to mask everything off. I would let it sit for a day before putting everything back in, and then try to put everything in nice without scraping. That's what I did. Based off the U-Pol instruction pamplet it takes a week before being totally dry and they are saying 2-3 days for light duty. LINK-> http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...RLB-TDS-US.pdf

I found a video. It looks fast if it doesn't dent up your floorboards.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbb5dD98b5s

OscarTheJeep

I used a heat gun and a stiff putty knife. It got up 90% of it. The rest I hit with a wire wheel. It wasn't that difficult to remove.