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Found another switchable source for power

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Old 04-27-2008, 08:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by chucktuna
For sure use one of these "tap in" devices. Dont just go cramming a wire in there.
ALSO.
Everyone should get a 12v test light...my best friend



The fuse has a hot side and a cold side. That is, when the fuse blows, which of the 2 blades of the fuse looses power.
To find out stick the tip of the test light probe ( and ground the clip) in there to see which one is hot with no fuse. Then use the other "cold" side as your tap in source. This way, the fuse protects your new circut.

The light will find all sorts of "untapped power"

chuck
Good advice Chuck. I usually use a volt meter but this is way more convenient. I know Home Depot carries the 120 volt ones but I doubt they carry the 12v model. Where did you pick that up?...Autoparts store? Radioshack?
Old 04-28-2008, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubimon
Good advice Chuck. I usually use a volt meter but this is way more convenient. I know Home Depot carries the 120 volt ones but I doubt they carry the 12v model. Where did you pick that up?...Autoparts store? Radioshack?

I've got the exact one that in the picture. The handle that houses the bulb is about the size of a "regular" size screwdriver.
I went through a few cheapies and I dont remeber where I bought this one...
I think it was radioshack, but not sure.

chuck
Old 04-28-2008, 08:46 PM
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Thank you thank you thank you!! I tested every wire when i installed my system, and nothing would work. My amp has a sensor turn on mode, which i had to use. But i think i'll be changing that now.

Last edited by Redjk07; 04-29-2008 at 01:24 PM.
Old 04-28-2008, 10:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by chucktuna

I've got the exact one that in the picture. The handle that houses the bulb is about the size of a "regular" size screwdriver.
I went through a few cheapies and I dont remeber where I bought this one...
I think it was radioshack, but not sure.

chuck
I picked one up at PepBoys today for $12 and it says it is usable on sensitve computer control devices also. Good from 3V to 24V. Some of them said not good for computer circuitry. I figured what the heck, I might as well get the better one. The other were like $8.
Old 06-20-2008, 10:11 PM
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Ok this was a good idea and I also took a look at this thread about installing the seat heaters in hopes of finding where the power came from inside the cab. During a dig through there I found this link that has the Mopar directions and now this has really got my mind wandering around.

Now why do our Jeeps come with 2 fuse (which you have found are hot) spots for heated seats but Mopar hooks the seats in to the Cigarette Lighter?

I almost thought I was damn close to finding the wiring I'm looking for. Has anyone been brave enough to yank the fuse box apart to see what color the wires are coming from the Heat Seat fuse blocks or possible know if there is wiring that runs in to the cab?
Old 06-20-2008, 10:33 PM
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Just curious as I've not yet gone poking around under the seats------> is the harness ALL one unit or are there more than one? I'd of thunk-it had one for the seat belt pressure, one for airbag....and one for heated seats????????????

Anyone got a pic of this harness?


Nevertheless- Cool find with M8 and M-9

Which leads me to the next question: WHERE did you find these schematics for the fuse box? I'm I just missing them in the manual??????????????
Old 06-21-2008, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by deconstructionist
Just curious as I've not yet gone poking around under the seats------> is the harness ALL one unit or are there more than one? I'd of thunk-it had one for the seat belt pressure, one for airbag....and one for heated seats????????????

Anyone got a pic of this harness?


Nevertheless- Cool find with M8 and M-9

Which leads me to the next question: WHERE did you find these schematics for the fuse box? I'm I just missing them in the manual??????????????
Schematics for the fuse box.. Look on the fuse box lid. It is easier to pop it off and then look at it, just orientate it to the fuses using the power notch (inside front).

Hope this is what you meant!
Old 06-21-2008, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tambil68
Schematics for the fuse box.. Look on the fuse box lid. It is easier to pop it off and then look at it, just orientate it to the fuses using the power notch (inside front).

Hope this is what you meant!
Ah, didn't know it was there: thank you.

As for the harness- does it exist on rigs without that option of heated seats?
Old 06-21-2008, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by deconstructionist
Ah, didn't know it was there: thank you.

As for the harness- does it exist on rigs without that option of heated seats?
>>edit<< No Problem... I didn't know it until I read it on here....lol Not good at paying attention sometimes....

Might, seems they changed a lot going to the 08. I know mine didn't have any additional wiring, only what it came with. (Example being the courtesy floor well light,, no harness at all.)

The fuse tap is readily available at parts stores. But they commonly only have ones rated at 10 amp, which is fine if you are only 1. need up to 10 amp, or 2 are using it to switch a relay, which doesn't require much amps.

BTW, the fuse tap does allow it to be used on existing circuits not just the un-used ones, such as the heated seats. You just put a 10amp in the top of the tap and the original back into the bottom to complete the "original" circuit. np.

And to the poster... Yes, all three of the available fuse spaces there are ignition based, so when key on you have power and when key off you do not.

Very easy to check with a light or multi-meter... speaking of which I have noticed there is not a consistant "hot" side, so check it before you assume.

Hope this helps someone.

Last edited by tambil68; 06-21-2008 at 07:55 PM.
Old 06-21-2008, 10:25 PM
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[quote=tambil68;560507

Hope this helps someone.[/quote]

It does. MANY thanks.


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