I'd be worried about problems when using those jacks as I always have things plugged in to them charging it seems It doesn't look like the remote box needs a lot of power so not worried too much about overloading the lines but I've read about the interference factor doing these type of splices these days.

 

Works fine on the 2012s. I believe the holes are the same. Regardless, pull the side dash cover off (the part where the door meets up to the dash) and look towards the top. You'll see a hole with some styrofoam in it. This is the hole you want to push the wire through. Hopefully that makes sense. I'm away from my jeep or I'd snap a picture.

 

how is the performance on this after turning?

 

Thanks, I got it installed Friday afternoon before we hit the trails. Worked great as a plug'n'play solution and no tuning done even! I'm likely going to do a few things to try and get better range but with the antenna mounted on top of the mast of the AEV rear bumper it seemed to do pretty well!

 

Since my last post on the Cobra 75 install

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-c...2/#post2626195

I decided that a Rubicon was the way to go, so I traded the 2011 JKU Sport for a 2012 JKU Rubicon. I stripped most of my goodies out of the 2011 before the trade, so I'll be doing another install of the Cobra 75 in the Rubi in the next few weeks.

For what it's worth, I've decided to abandon the external speaker.

On my last trail ride with the 2011, there were two people in our group that I could HEAR over the speaker but I couldn't UNDERSTAND what they were saying. I think it's a combination of a rather tinny speaker and my less-than-perfect hearing. So I pulled the plug on the speaker to re-active the handset speaker and, although it wasn't as loud as I would have liked, I could understand the built-in speaker more easily (probably because it was closer to my head).

So I'll be re-using my spare-mount antenna bracket and the Cobra 75 but ditching the external speaker. This will allow me to do a behind-the-glovebox mount instead of under the seat. I like some of the ideas I've seen in this thread regarding mounting options.

I will not be drilling any holes, though -- I need to keep the warranty as bulletproof as possible because I have a May 30, 2012 build and I'm thinking I may be starting to hear the Pentastar Death Tap in the driver's side head (and as I mentioned, my hearing isn't so good). Hopefully I've just read too much about it lately and I'm simply hearing normal valvetrain noise and imagining a problem, however I'm not sure what the cutoff date/build date is to have a chance of getting one of the bad heads.

So my question to the group would be -- what's the best source of 12VDC for the CB that's easily-accessible to a behind-the-govebox install? Battery or accessory port? If battery, what's the easiest way to get to it on the 2012s? Which is to say how can I get power to the CB without chancing voiding any warranty?

I may even hold off on the CB install completely if there's a chance of needing to have a head replaced.

TIA.

-- Gort

 

You can get through the firewall by popping the p/s dash side piece off and going through one of the holes filled with foam. I just spliced the cigarette outlet from behind. Most say it's not a good source, but it has worked just fine for me. Plus it turns off with the ignition which was my main reason for going that route.

 

I did the accessory port/cig lighter on my last install for the very same reason (off with ignition). I didn't have any problems with the power quality either. What I really wanted to do was go right to the fusebox, but I couldn't figure out how to get the wires in there without compromising the seal (and probably voiding the warranty for any electrical issues). Even though it was a bit of a pain to get to (had to remove half of the dash panels to get enough room to work) I may go that route again -- I'm the kind of guy that forgets to turn things off.

What I'd really like to do is build my own power distribution center with some ignition-switched ports and figure a way to wire the relays for the switched ports directly into the factory harness. Of course, I'd need the shop manual for that.

Anybody know where I can buy a 2012 Jeep shop manual?

 

Anyone have this? Pics? I want to run along rollbar under pad/cover to dash.

 

I ran two lines of RG58 from the tailgate, under the trim on the passenger side, then up and under the roll bar pad. One of the lines was run to a radio under the drivers seat by coming down from the roll bar under the plastic trim, then under the carpet. The other line continued under the roll bar pad until it gets the the windshield; then it was routed out along an ARR bar where the second rig was mounted.

As you can see, I unzipped the one piece of padding, and from there just pushed the RG58 through the padding until it got to the area above the passenger seat. From there you can pull the excess cable out and re-insert it at that point to get it through the remaining pad up to the windshield area (then conceal behind the trim to get to the dash.

YMMV

 

Installed today. Ran all the way to windshield along roll bars inside roll bar cover/pad and down inside windshield trim to just under glove box. Unzipped at pillar between front and rear door. A wire hanger and some electrical tape did the rest. Takes a little time but easy. Nice, clean, invisible install.

Thanks