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4 ohm vs 2 ohm

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:05 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 01svtL
In doing this, you mean if the subwoofer clearly loses bass when fading from front to back and/or left to right balance in the rear? Or were you referring to the speakers themselves losing bass?
I'm not talking about the actual output from the factory subwoofer losing output. That will not happen. I am referring to the perceived bass as heard from the normal listening position. If one or more of the speakers are playing out of phase with the factory subwoofer the out of phase speaker will try to cancel the bass from the subwoofer resulting in a severe loss of bass.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Ryan0260
The 4 ohm speakers provide more resistance than the 2 ohm speakers. Since that amp provides it maximum power at 2 ohms, you will need to get 2 ohm speakers, or you will have to deal with a noticeable output loss do to not enough power to efficiently push them.
Not always the case. Some speakers are so much more efficient that the net result, even with less power, is more output. Remember, the factory amp loses approximately 50% of its rms power when the resistance load doubles. That is the equivalent of 3db of sound output potential loss. If the factory speakers are about 86-87db efficient with 2.83volts (one watt) at one meter and the new speakers are 92-93db effecient, the overall effect would sound as if the power output had been DOUBLED. That being said, doubling power adds 3db of output. And for it to SOUND twice as loud the power has to increased by a factor of 10. So in order for a 100 watt system to sound twice as loud it would have to have its power increased to 1000 watts. Simply going to 200 watts would make it sound roughly 33% louder. Likewise, going from 2 ohms to 4 ohms would create a net loss of 15%. 15 % of not much, well, ain't much.

So splitting hairs on a factory amp and the controversy of 2 ohms vs 4.

The real advantage of the two ohm speaker in a factory system? By the time you add in the under gauged size wire running amuck in Chrysler cars, it's really closer to a 3-4 ohm load at the factory amp.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:24 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford

I haven't seen a multi channel amp that doesn't reduce output to ALL speakers with each increase in speaker resistance. But I haven't seen them all.
I have never heard of an amp that does that. Ever. If it did, then the amp would be a mono amp. I have seen multi channel amps sharing a common power supply clip sooner due to one set of channels taxing the power supply before another channel. But if you put a 4 ohm speaker on one channel and a two ohm on the other, the 4 ohm side doesn't get louder. Nor will the 2 ohm side play less loud. It will just sound unbalanced. The amplifier channels do not share output mosfets. They only share the power supply. The outputs are separate. If they were not, then stereo sound would require a separate amp per speaker.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:28 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 01svtL
I don't think they are wired backwards. I can definitely hear the tweeter behind my head now. I will try the test after work, though.

BTW, I saw that +/- wire color before, but mine weren't those colors. The driver side was green w/ a white stripe, and black with a white stripe. The passenger side was something like green w/ a white stripe and light blue or gray with a white stripe. What I did was look at how the clip was connected to the stock speaker. I assumed right-side wire going into the clip was positive, as the right side post on the Polk speaker is the positive side. So I reattached the left speaker wire to the negative side on the polk, and the right speaker wire to the positive side for the Polk.
Sounds like you wired them ok then. BTW, electrical phase with regards to wiring would have VERY LITTLE effect on the tweeters output. Mainly it would cause a loss of bass. Out of phase tweeters, due to the extremely small wavelengths of the frequencies they produce, don't really sound that difference. A really critical listener might perceive a spatial difference, but not a perceived volume level difference.

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Old 05-01-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn
Not always the case. Some speakers are so much more efficient that the net result, even with less power, is more output. Remember, the factory amp loses approximately 50% of its rms power when the resistance load doubles. That is the equivalent of 3db of sound output potential loss. If the factory speakers are about 86-87db efficient with 2.83volts (one watt) at one meter and the new speakers are 92-93db effecient, the overall effect would sound as if the power output had been DOUBLED. That being said, doubling power adds 3db of output. And for it to SOUND twice as loud the power has to increased by a factor of 10. So in order for a 100 watt system to sound twice as loud it would have to have its power increased to 1000 watts. Simply going to 200 watts would make it sound roughly 33% louder. Likewise, going from 2 ohms to 4 ohms would create a net loss of 15%. 15 % of not much, well, ain't much.

So splitting hairs on a factory amp and the controversy of 2 ohms vs 4.

The real advantage of the two ohm speaker in a factory system? By the time you add in the under gauged size wire running amuck in Chrysler cars, it's really closer to a 3-4 ohm load at the factory amp.

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This ^^^

There are more variables than just amp power and speaker impedance.
Old 05-01-2013, 06:35 PM
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You might also make sure there is absolutely no air leaks around the mounting surface of the speaker. While not critical for the durability of the speaker( with subs, the enclosure must be absolutely leak free. Even vented enclosures must be leak free. The enclosure is part of the speakers mechanical suspension) it will cause severe bass loss as well.

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Old 05-01-2013, 07:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Collyn

Not always the case. Some speakers are so much more efficient that the net result, even with less power, is more output. Remember, the factory amp loses approximately 50% of its rms power when the resistance load doubles. That is the equivalent of 3db of sound output potential loss. If the factory speakers are about 86-87db efficient with 2.83volts (one watt) at one meter and the new speakers are 92-93db effecient, the overall effect would sound as if the power output had been DOUBLED. That being said, doubling power adds 3db of output. And for it to SOUND twice as loud the power has to increased by a factor of 10. So in order for a 100 watt system to sound twice as loud it would have to have its power increased to 1000 watts. Simply going to 200 watts would make it sound roughly 33% louder. Likewise, going from 2 ohms to 4 ohms would create a net loss of 15%. 15 % of not much, well, ain't much.

So splitting hairs on a factory amp and the controversy of 2 ohms vs 4.

The real advantage of the two ohm speaker in a factory system? By the time you add in the under gauged size wire running amuck in Chrysler cars, it's really closer to a 3-4 ohm load at the factory amp.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Very true on speaker efficiency. This is something that is often overlooked, and does make a difference. 3 or 4 decibels at 1 watt 1 meter is very substantial in terms of output.
Old 05-02-2013, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn
Not always the case. Some speakers are so much more efficient that the net result, even with less power, is more output. Remember, the factory amp loses approximately 50% of its rms power when the resistance load doubles. That is the equivalent of 3db of sound output potential loss. If the factory speakers are about 86-87db efficient with 2.83volts (one watt) at one meter and the new speakers are 92-93db effecient, the overall effect would sound as if the power output had been DOUBLED. That being said, doubling power adds 3db of output. And for it to SOUND twice as loud the power has to increased by a factor of 10. So in order for a 100 watt system to sound twice as loud it would have to have its power increased to 1000 watts. Simply going to 200 watts would make it sound roughly 33% louder. Likewise, going from 2 ohms to 4 ohms would create a net loss of 15%. 15 % of not much, well, ain't much.

So splitting hairs on a factory amp and the controversy of 2 ohms vs 4.

The real advantage of the two ohm speaker in a factory system? By the time you add in the under gauged size wire running amuck in Chrysler cars, it's really closer to a 3-4 ohm load at the factory amp.

Sent from the fast lane while driving one handed.
Using a 2 ohm system is the Reason Smaller Gauge wiring can be used....It's more Efficent in many ways and the Outcome makes it all worth it....Now people changing Components of this system and not Knowing the specs or being Mislead with Ideas and start chaging the speakers to 4 ohms etc, ends up in the long run shortening the Life of the Amp or Overheat it more, use more power etc and Maybe be some of the Reason those New Wranglers were Catching Fire and Destroyed...lOL.......If any changes to a systems specs, any device, all should change to meet the New specs....It's like that A/C 115 volt Outlet in the Console...What gauge would you think it is?..Things like that....
The Best setup in sound was the First High Prem Setup, Infinity 8 channel Amp, Prem Harman/Infinity Speakers with the Fronts being Bi-Amped...WoW...Nothing has beat the Sound yet....Simply 99% perfect with Ass Kickers Added inside Front seats to Feel the Bass, Perfect Wrangler System...

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Old 05-02-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Collyn
You might also make sure there is absolutely no air leaks around the mounting surface of the speaker. While not critical for the durability of the speaker( with subs, the enclosure must be absolutely leak free. Even vented enclosures must be leak free. The enclosure is part of the speakers mechanical suspension) it will cause severe bass loss as well.

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Actually....The Tighter the space and Air Movement controlled, the less Bump you get....The Vented enclosure gives more Air Movement which causes more BUMP......
.
Advantages of Vented Enclosures
1 - Reduced cone excursion and reduced distortion around vent tuning.
2 - Increased output capabilities around vent tuning.
3 - Vented boxes allow for specialized sound qualities such as the "bump" often preferred for rap and rock & roll.
.
Advantages of Sealed Enclosures
1 - High power handling capability
2 - Extended low frequency response and smooth rolloff (12dB/octave)
3 - Excellent transient response.
4 - Tolerant of minor enclosure size variations.
5 - Easiest enclosure to build.
Disadvantages of Sealed Enclosures
1 - Requires a woofer with a longer voice coil.
Old 05-02-2013, 02:47 PM
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