Auxiliary Electrical Hookup
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Thanks. I'll see what I can dig up...
Good questions…
Yes, I wanted to just use the one fuse for both the winch and the Bussmann Panel. I do know that if I blow the fuse all of my circuits will go dead. I originally thought of running the wire directly from the Battery to the Panel, which is the way it’s done on our Jeep, but wanted the protection if I had a short in the wire. I am carrying two extra fuses, but I don’t really expect the winch to blow the fuse as I’ve only had to use it 3 times so far (though I’ve used the compressor on almost every trip). I think if I did blow that fuse more than once I would consider running the wire with a separate in-line fuse for the Panel separately, but like I said, for me, I want to have that fuse protect both the winch and wire to the Panel.
The 250Amp fuse won’t protect your 8AWG panel wire. If you have a short on the 8AWG wire; it will completely burn/melt before it draws enough amperage to blow the 250A fuse. Put a 50Amp fuse on it.
To engage the winch, I wanted to ensure that the key was turned on before the winch (switch) would work. The cigar lighter turns on with the ignition switch, so I connected my relay there.
Not that it won’t work this way; but, why the extra relay? As you state; the cig lighter wire is energized only when the ign is ON. So it’s already on a relay. Just run 2amp fused power from the cig lighter directly to your “winch ON” switch.
I didn’t want to wire in/out from insidethe Jeep, I only wanted to wire on/off. The in/out is stilled controlled by the remote switch.
Gotcha! So, is the relay you have labeled “winch relay” actually the relay inside the winch control box? So for safety reasons; your just interrupting the power going to the winch control box so that you can’t just plug in the hand controller and operate the winch. First, you must have ign ON and “winch switch” ON. I like it! Safety first!!
All of the switches have a light that will illuminate with the other dash lights. In the last picture the green parts come on when I turn on the lights and the orange par comes on when the switch is turned on.
Good questions…
Yes, I wanted to just use the one fuse for both the winch and the Bussmann Panel. I do know that if I blow the fuse all of my circuits will go dead. I originally thought of running the wire directly from the Battery to the Panel, which is the way it’s done on our Jeep, but wanted the protection if I had a short in the wire. I am carrying two extra fuses, but I don’t really expect the winch to blow the fuse as I’ve only had to use it 3 times so far (though I’ve used the compressor on almost every trip). I think if I did blow that fuse more than once I would consider running the wire with a separate in-line fuse for the Panel separately, but like I said, for me, I want to have that fuse protect both the winch and wire to the Panel.
The 250Amp fuse won’t protect your 8AWG panel wire. If you have a short on the 8AWG wire; it will completely burn/melt before it draws enough amperage to blow the 250A fuse. Put a 50Amp fuse on it.
To engage the winch, I wanted to ensure that the key was turned on before the winch (switch) would work. The cigar lighter turns on with the ignition switch, so I connected my relay there.
Not that it won’t work this way; but, why the extra relay? As you state; the cig lighter wire is energized only when the ign is ON. So it’s already on a relay. Just run 2amp fused power from the cig lighter directly to your “winch ON” switch.
I didn’t want to wire in/out from insidethe Jeep, I only wanted to wire on/off. The in/out is stilled controlled by the remote switch.
Gotcha! So, is the relay you have labeled “winch relay” actually the relay inside the winch control box? So for safety reasons; your just interrupting the power going to the winch control box so that you can’t just plug in the hand controller and operate the winch. First, you must have ign ON and “winch switch” ON. I like it! Safety first!!
All of the switches have a light that will illuminate with the other dash lights. In the last picture the green parts come on when I turn on the lights and the orange par comes on when the switch is turned on.
I think I’m starting to better comprehend the diagram.
A lot of your time and effort has been put into; the install and your posting / forum interaction. Thanks again; it’s very much appreciated.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
xerofall and Skippman - thanks.
JINGLES
On the 250 amp fuse - yeah, as I indicated I wasn’t even going to protect the 8 AWG wire because our JK doesn’t protect the 6 AWG wire that goes from the battery to the fuse/circuit box. I know that the 250 amp fuse is not optimal to protect a short in the 8 AWG wire, but it’s better then the protection that Chrysler gives their wire. Also, I know the battery I have can put out almost 5,000 amps when shorted, so I’m thinking if it’s a real short, and the battery tries to generate 5,000 amps, the fuse will burn out before the wire. I may actually test it some day.
On the winch relay/switch. Right, it does look like an extra relay, but yeah, I wanted the extra “safety precaution” of requiring the ignition on and my switch on before the winch will work. In addition to “safety” I want to make it “difficult” for someone to walk up to my winch and use it without my key and winch switch activated.
Oh yeah, I really should have been more specific about “light bulb”. I wanted to make sure that if I have any electrical issues that Chrysler couldn’t blame it on my wiring. The cigar lighter is designed by Chrysler to take a load, so no issues drawing 100 milliamps for my “ignition on” relay there. For the “lights on” relay I was contemplating splicing into the console lights, but figured Chrysler may take issue with me doing that, so (as you suspected) I used the passenger side parking light power. I noted that the trailer towing harness taps into the rear parking light circuit to power the trailer lights, and the front parking lights circuit uses the exact same size fuse and wires, so I know there’s no issue with a 100 milliamp draw from the parking lamp to switch my “lights on” relay.
Yeah, there’s plenty power/AWG to run the relays and LEDs. The relays are 100 milliamps, and the LEDs are 40 milliamps. If I calculated correctly, at most the relay will only be powering 460 milliamps.
I agree that the parking lamp circuit has plenty of power to also power the low power LEDs, but as I indicated above, I don’t really want to give Chrysler any avenue to say that I caused an electrical problem. I’m drawing 100 milliamps on the cigar lighter and 100 milliamps on the parking lights to simply switch a relay. I can simply state that all of my accessories are powered by my direct wire from the battery. If I disconnect my wire from the battery I can demonstrate to the Dealer that all of my accessories, including the switch lights, will not work). It’s probably overkill, but I have room for the relay and want to make it obvious to the Dealer that if I have an electrical problem it isn’t due to my wiring.
Thanks. A problem with the wiring diagram is that I initially drew it for myself to make sure I wired everything correctly so I had some of the “notes” in my head. Thanks for the questions to illuminate want I was trying to accomplish.
JINGLES
On the 250 amp fuse - yeah, as I indicated I wasn’t even going to protect the 8 AWG wire because our JK doesn’t protect the 6 AWG wire that goes from the battery to the fuse/circuit box. I know that the 250 amp fuse is not optimal to protect a short in the 8 AWG wire, but it’s better then the protection that Chrysler gives their wire. Also, I know the battery I have can put out almost 5,000 amps when shorted, so I’m thinking if it’s a real short, and the battery tries to generate 5,000 amps, the fuse will burn out before the wire. I may actually test it some day.
On the winch relay/switch. Right, it does look like an extra relay, but yeah, I wanted the extra “safety precaution” of requiring the ignition on and my switch on before the winch will work. In addition to “safety” I want to make it “difficult” for someone to walk up to my winch and use it without my key and winch switch activated.
Oh yeah, I really should have been more specific about “light bulb”. I wanted to make sure that if I have any electrical issues that Chrysler couldn’t blame it on my wiring. The cigar lighter is designed by Chrysler to take a load, so no issues drawing 100 milliamps for my “ignition on” relay there. For the “lights on” relay I was contemplating splicing into the console lights, but figured Chrysler may take issue with me doing that, so (as you suspected) I used the passenger side parking light power. I noted that the trailer towing harness taps into the rear parking light circuit to power the trailer lights, and the front parking lights circuit uses the exact same size fuse and wires, so I know there’s no issue with a 100 milliamp draw from the parking lamp to switch my “lights on” relay.
Yeah, there’s plenty power/AWG to run the relays and LEDs. The relays are 100 milliamps, and the LEDs are 40 milliamps. If I calculated correctly, at most the relay will only be powering 460 milliamps.
I agree that the parking lamp circuit has plenty of power to also power the low power LEDs, but as I indicated above, I don’t really want to give Chrysler any avenue to say that I caused an electrical problem. I’m drawing 100 milliamps on the cigar lighter and 100 milliamps on the parking lights to simply switch a relay. I can simply state that all of my accessories are powered by my direct wire from the battery. If I disconnect my wire from the battery I can demonstrate to the Dealer that all of my accessories, including the switch lights, will not work). It’s probably overkill, but I have room for the relay and want to make it obvious to the Dealer that if I have an electrical problem it isn’t due to my wiring.
Thanks. A problem with the wiring diagram is that I initially drew it for myself to make sure I wired everything correctly so I had some of the “notes” in my head. Thanks for the questions to illuminate want I was trying to accomplish.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Thanks again for your time and efforts here. If your going to the trouble; and have the know-how to calculate loads; then it sounds like you are much more knowledgable than your diagram indicates. I get it now...... your diagram is really only prelim notes on your plan; and the details are in your head. I'd still protect that 6AWG or 8AWG wire separately. Just my safety concerns. BTW... I have friends in Phoenix and visit 2-3 times per year. If you don't mind, I'll PM you the next time I'm heading over; maybe we can hook up and run a trail or two!
Thanks again, Bill K.
Thanks again, Bill K.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
JINGLES - Yeah, I used the posted drawing to design the circuits, and actually made a more detailed drawing for the RTMR Panel and one for the switches. I didn’t really write down the specifics on why I picked specific size wires, types, colors, connectors, etc.
Sure, my wife and I usually go wheeling on the weekends. Shoot me a PM and I’ll let you know if we’re available.
Sure, my wife and I usually go wheeling on the weekends. Shoot me a PM and I’ll let you know if we’re available.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clara, CA
Excellent work....
I'm getting ready to do something similar to clean up my creeping accessory connections to the battery and single ignition-switched circuit that I've added.
I've seen that Bussman box online before, but I haven't found a source for ordering small batches (i.e. one). I can find the weatherpack connectors and stuff elsewhere, but a source on that one item would be much appreciated.
Again, very very nice work. Thanks for the writeup.
I'm getting ready to do something similar to clean up my creeping accessory connections to the battery and single ignition-switched circuit that I've added.
I've seen that Bussman box online before, but I haven't found a source for ordering small batches (i.e. one). I can find the weatherpack connectors and stuff elsewhere, but a source on that one item would be much appreciated.
Again, very very nice work. Thanks for the writeup.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA
Anthony Doctor
847-541-4020
They are a distributor but they also handle small orders. I got boxes from him. The brochure states that they don't have terminals, seals or wire but he included some terminals and seals for various AWG wires. They were $.15/ea. Once I had those I used the part numbers for reference and got the quantity I needed from mouser.com.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Santa Clarita, CA
JINGLES - Yeah, I used the posted drawing to design the circuits, and actually made a more detailed drawing for the RTMR Panel and one for the switches. I didn’t really write down the specifics on why I picked specific size wires, types, colors, connectors, etc.
Sure, my wife and I usually go wheeling on the weekends. Shoot me a PM and I’ll let you know if we’re available.
Sure, my wife and I usually go wheeling on the weekends. Shoot me a PM and I’ll let you know if we’re available.
