On the forums when you hear the term "e-codes" they're (for the most part) talking about Cibie E-Code replacement headlights. They're a popular upgrade on a lot of vehicles. . . even though they're not actually D.O.T. approved. I think the "E" signifies they passed the ECE (Economic Commission for Europe) regulations. I.E. They're legal in Europe.

The Cibie E-codes replace the entire housing / reflector, and uses a H4 bulb. They're a direct bolt in, but you'll have to wire in a new plug to work with the H4 bulb. The best way to do it is running all new wires. Use the factory wires to trip two relays. . . one for the high beam, and one for the low beams and then run all new wires to the new plugs. This eliminates any voltage loss from the factories small wires and will allow you to use a higher wattage bulb.

The factory reflectors are plastic, don't have a real good beam pattern and the wires are too thin to handle higher watt bulbs. The Cibie E-codes have a better all around beam pattern, and it has a sharp cut off on the low beam so you can increase the wattage without blinding other drivers, and they're glass so they'll handle the higher heat.

Here's a shortcut to my post (in the link you saved) where you can see what the Cibie E-codes look like installed in our JK.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...7&postcount=16

 

That looks awesome! What's the total cost on a setup like that?

 

The Headlights - $215 (2 Cibie e-codes, 2 - Osram 70/65w bulbs, relay kit [2 relays, 2 plugs, terminals and fuse holder.] 12g wire not included) www.danielsternlighting.com

I didn't buy mine from him and wasn't happy with the plugs or bulbs I got from aardvark international. They weren't the Osram bulbs.


Driving lights - $265 (2 Lightforce 170mm Strikers, no wiring harness included)
I bought them at www.4x4rockshop.com and built my own wiring harness using a switch under the hood that allows me to choose whether they come on with the high beams, or with an in cab switch.

 

E Codes are Euro lights use in europe. Their standards are higher that DOT. You just order a left side drive set of Cybie E-codes and it is a direct replacement for the whole light tub and all. It looks the same with the exception to the light diffusion cuts on the glass. To really get the most out of the Ecodes you have to add relays in line and upgrade the factory wires from the relay to the lights.

 

Just to clarify a bit. You have to wire in a new plug and use an H4 bulb. The factory plug / bulb will not fit in the e-code reflectors.

You can use the factory wiring if you stick to a close to stock watt bulb, but as he stated it's best to run all new wires.

What that means is. . .

You'll run new thicker (12g is good) wires (with fuse holders) from the battery to two relays. One for high, and one for low beam. You'll run 4 new 12g wires from the relays to the lights. (2 for each light). You'll run new 12g ground wires from the relays, and from the lights both, and you'll tap into the factory wiring to run two wires (one for high, one for low beam) to trip the relays.

It's not hard, just time consuming as you'll want to solder and shrink wrap all your connections.

Daniel Stern explains it a little better on his site, and about halfway down the page is a diagram. "Upgraded Headlamp Circuit With Relays. . ." http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html

 

I have the Cibie E-codes, from Daniel Stern. I have not yet had time to write up a full report and post the photos I took while doing the project, but the lights are DRAMATICALLY BETTER!

These Cibie lights are brighter than the HID lamps on my Mercedes E55.

Just do the exact wiring harness spelled out by DS, and you will be fine. Somewhat time consuming if you are electrically challenged (I am), but worth it.

 

OK, I did some looking into the actual subject matter for this thread... the typical TJ style modification to running the fog lights and the high beams together.

What I get from the FSM is that this isn't going to happen on the JK. Here is the description of the fog lights from the FSM:

FRONT FOG LAMPS
The front fog lamps have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment wire harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The Steering Control Module (SCM) monitors a hard wired multiplex input from the left multi-function switch to determine whether the fog lamps are selected, then sends an electronic front fog lamp switch status message to the EMIC over the Local Interface Network (LIN) data bus and the EMIC relays an electronic front fog lamp request message to the TIPM over the CAN data bus.

When the TIPM receives a front fog lamp request message it then controls front fog lamp operation by controlling a battery voltage output through high side drivers on right and left fog lamp feed circuits. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic message back to the EMIC to illuminate or extinguish the front fog lamp indicator. In certain markets where required, the TIPM will automatically de-energize the front fog lamps any time the headlamp high beams are selected.

The TIPM also provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the front fog lamps, which will turn these lamps OFF if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position, if there is a charging system failure, or if the electrical system voltage falls below about 11.75 volts for more than about 30 seconds. The TIPM will return the front fog lamps to normal operation when it detects that system voltage is greater than 13.0 volts for more than about 30 seconds.

Each front fog lamp includes an integral adjustment screw to be used for static aiming of the fog lamp beams.

There is not longer a separate relay that controls the fog lights so you cannot modify it anymore.

 

Thanks for all the responses. Think I'll look into the e-codes. Sucks that they rewired the relays.

 

So what would prevent one from tapping 12V from the battery (or equivocal supply) and send it to the positive wire of the fog lights to be controlled by a separate relay which is energized by 12V tapped from the high beam circuit?

Unless this generates a trouble code in the computer by sending 12V UP the fog light wires to the computer, it should work normally in the low beam position, and keep them on when the high beams are on.

Tom
Bryson City, NC

 

That would probably work fine. So anytime the high beams were on the fog lights would be on too.