A JK-Forum User-created DEFINITIVE guide to Amps, Subs, and Audio
06-15-2009, 12:47 PM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A JK-Forum User-created DEFINITIVE guide to Amps, Subs, and Audio
Post No. 9 (below) has the answers to the original post questions (see below). Here is a recount of my experience and what I learned.
I decided to do this on the cheap, including good but not high end parts, and the whole install by me rather than an installer. To be clear, I've never installed a stereo before and I'm no pro with electronics. Just a normal, but competent person. My advice is this: anyone should be able to install the speakers and the sub. The amp is hard ONLY because of the mounting issue. I simply could not mount it where I wanted (under passenger seat) without taking the seat out. I could not take the seat out b/c I couldn't get the screws out. If you can, the amp install can be reasonably easy. Another option, which I would do if starting over, is to find an amp (like the Alpine 5) that fits in the stock location.
AMP NOTE: when running the power cord to the amp, there are two holes in the firewall that leads to the engine on each side (i.e., one driver side and one passenger side). To access these, just pull off the side panel next to whichever front speakers is closest to your amp. The hole is not actually big enough to fit a 4 ga wire without some trouble. What i did was pound one end of the 4 ga wire with a hammer (about six inches worth) until it was in the shape ellipsis rather than a circle. I then fed this endt through the hole -- the non-pounded, still round part of the wire fit once I pulled the rest through, with a little scraping of the rubber. I then just cut off the six inches that I had pounded and discarded it.
The answers to my main questions are in Post 9. I just want to post here the guides from around this forum that helped me do the install. These other folks really put in the time to take pictures and write instructions. It was tremendously helpful:
TAKING OUT THE HEAD UNIT:
This kind soul created a pdf that shows how to remove the Head Unit (actually dealing with the Uconnect).
REMOVING THE FRONT SPEAKERS:
Instructions by two folks on this forum: one and two. Read together, these will give you all the information you need, except:
It is critical to remove the first three or four screws from the horizontal metal bar at the bottom of the enclosure after you've done all the other steps. This allows the front driver's side speaker to come out pretty easily!
REPLACING THE SUB:
Here you go. The sub is the easiest of everything to replace.
Original post below!
|
|
I've been reading the threads here and elsewhere and it seems that there is a lot of information scattered about re: upgrading the stock JK sub, amp, and Soundbar speakers. It would be great if we could consolidate all that knowledge here.
I will update this first post as I get responses/details.
Subjective Conclusions from Prior Threads:
1. It seems that the stock Infiniti amp is OK, but it has a crossover that limits the power and/or frequencies sent to the Soundbar.
2. The stock amp sends acceptable power to the stock subwoofer, but not enough to just plug in a better sub and get any real improvement.
3. To replace the stock sub and keep the stock amp/sub enclosure, you need a dual coil, 2 ohm replacement that is less than 4.5 inches deep.
4. The Soundbar speakers can be replaced with any 6.5" speaker that is equal to or less than 2 3/16" deep (unless you want to keep the stock grilles, which may require more specific choices).
5. The "Nitro" amp upgrade is the easiest way to replace the stock amp and get increased power to the Soundbar and the sub.
6. To install a non-Nitro amp upgrade, you will need an aftermarket harness (true?).
7. To get the best improvement in sound it is NECESSARY to use soundproofing/deadening material in the Soundbar and, preferably, everywhere where there could be vibrations.
Outstanding Questions:
1. What are the dimensions of the stock amp (note: assumes you have the upgraded sound system)?
1a. What are its inputs?
1b. What are its outputs?
1c. Does it have a dedicated sub out?
1d. Pictures?
1e. For those who have replaced it, what did you use -- and did it fit in the OEM location?
2. Once the stock amp is replaced, can the original speaker wires be used to feed new Soundbar speakers and a new sub? 1b. What are its outputs?
1c. Does it have a dedicated sub out?
1d. Pictures?
1e. For those who have replaced it, what did you use -- and did it fit in the OEM location?
2a. Can the replacement amp be a 5 channel (i.e., with dedicated sub)?
3. Does it make any sense to leave the stock amp in to power front speakers, and add an amp to power Soundbar and sub? 4. If you replace the amp, are you still limited to 2 ohm speakers/subs for maximum output? That is, is this a limitation of the HU or the amp?
Also, if anyone has done these upgrades in the past, please post your choice for Amp (if in same location as replaced stock amp), sub (and did it fit in stock enclosure), speakers (and do OEM grilles fit), and how it sounds.
Last edited by mbwd; 08-01-2009 at 12:43 PM. Reason: edited to comply with forum rules
06-15-2009, 01:02 PM
#2
I've tried to get people to help me compile this kind of info before with no luck, not even a response at times. This would be great info and I'll add it to the FAQ if you can get it all together.
Some of your conclusions are wrong in my opinion - the nitro amp is not the easiest way to replace the stock amp in my opinion. And you don't need a harness for all situations. I also disagree about sound proofing. You aren't going to get good sound in a JK, period - its just not setup to give you good sound. Sound proofing should help with rattles though.
The bottom line is a lot of your 'conclusions' are subjective. I don't think there is a definitive answer to doing sound upgrades, but there are some good solutions and options.
Some of your conclusions are wrong in my opinion - the nitro amp is not the easiest way to replace the stock amp in my opinion. And you don't need a harness for all situations. I also disagree about sound proofing. You aren't going to get good sound in a JK, period - its just not setup to give you good sound. Sound proofing should help with rattles though.
The bottom line is a lot of your 'conclusions' are subjective. I don't think there is a definitive answer to doing sound upgrades, but there are some good solutions and options.
Last edited by JackMac4; 06-15-2009 at 01:07 PM.
06-15-2009, 01:32 PM
#3
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've tried to get people to help me compile this kind of info before with no luck, not even a response at times. This would be great info and I'll add it to the FAQ if you can get it all together.
Some of your conclusions are wrong in my opinion - the nitro amp is not the easiest way to replace the stock amp in my opinion. And you don't need a harness for all situations. I also disagree about sound proofing. You aren't going to get good sound in a JK, period - its just not setup to give you good sound. Sound proofing should help with rattles though.
The bottom line is a lot of your 'conclusions' are subjective. I don't think there is a definitive answer to doing sound upgrades, but there are some good solutions and options.
Some of your conclusions are wrong in my opinion - the nitro amp is not the easiest way to replace the stock amp in my opinion. And you don't need a harness for all situations. I also disagree about sound proofing. You aren't going to get good sound in a JK, period - its just not setup to give you good sound. Sound proofing should help with rattles though.
The bottom line is a lot of your 'conclusions' are subjective. I don't think there is a definitive answer to doing sound upgrades, but there are some good solutions and options.
Along those lines:
1. What is an easier amp than the Nitro to replace the stock one? How was it easy and what made it easy?
2. When do you not need a harness?
For everyone else who has done this in the past, I know you have posted in other threads so it may seem repetitive. But to have all the information in one place would be GREAT!
06-15-2009, 01:33 PM
#4
JK Freak
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Aberdeen/Edinburgh/Devon, UK
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
my setup is way more than adequate
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/new-speakers-new-amp-hu-88543/
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/new-speakers-new-amp-hu-88543/
06-15-2009, 01:47 PM
#5
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Care to share a short description of what you did to get it that way? And any pitfalls that you encountered?
Also, if you have answers to any of the questions (or corrections to any of the conclusions), please post those as well.
06-15-2009, 05:15 PM
#6
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I disagree. I feel the upgraded Infinity stereo in the JK sounds pretty darn good. The only thing it lacks is decent sub woofer power and a decent sub woofer enclosure. The speakers and tweets are above average but the sub is too small and all of the speaker enclosures suck. . . .
Flame on. 
Flame on.
If you believe that the stock system can't be improved (beyond what you've noted), well that's just peachy. But many folks -- myself included -- would like to try.
So, in keeping with the point of the thread, could you (and SONIC too) please share what you did to put in the sub and the new amp? Including any harness required for the new amp, where you put it, what you bought? And what sub, what enclosure, where etc.?
Last edited by mbwd; 06-15-2009 at 05:20 PM.
06-16-2009, 01:26 AM
#7
JK Freak
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Aberdeen/Edinburgh/Devon, UK
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
1x 1000w 4channel amp under driver seat (passenger if you got a LHD)
4x VIBE blackair 6.5 component front and coaxial rear speakers
1x pioneer f900bt HU
1x metra harness ( dont really need it now but i didnt know i was gonna change anything else apart from HU)
1x all new speaker wiring
1x wrap the wires in the soundbar in towels to stop rattling.
1x soon to be 1600w active sub (JULY
)sounds awsome. there are a few very small rattles but i can drown them out with the shear volume of the setup.
fair enough if you dynomat everything if will sound better but seriously you dont need to at all.
Trending Topics
08-01-2009, 11:31 AM
#8
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Answers -- from my install
Answers below.
i've been reading the threads here and elsewhere and it seems that there is a lot of information scattered about re: Upgrading the stock jk sub, amp, and soundbar speakers. It would be great if we could consolidate all that knowledge here.
I will update this first post as i get responses/details.
subjective conclusions from prior threads:
1. It seems that the stock infiniti amp is ok, but it has a crossover that limits the power and/or frequencies sent to the soundbar.
yes, this is correct. But the stock amp is very limiting b/c it has been neutered. I recommend getting a new amp. Optimally, for all seven speakers, but definitely for the sub and at least the rears.
2. The stock amp sends acceptable power to the stock subwoofer, but not enough to just plug in a better sub and get any real improvement.
yes, this is correct. You need a nice amp to power a good subwoofer.
3. To replace the stock sub and keep the stock amp/sub enclosure, you need a dual coil, 2 ohm replacement that is less than 4.5 inches deep.
well, sort of. This is true if you want to keep the stock amp and have it play as loud as the original sub. But, if you get a new amp, you can run any sub that it is capable of powering (2 ohm, 4 ohm; single or dual voice).
4. The soundbar speakers can be replaced with any 6.5" speaker that is equal to or less than 2 3/16" deep (unless you want to keep the stock grilles, which may require more specific choices).
this is not quite correct. The issue with installing in the soundbar is not just the depth, but the shape of the rear "cage"/magnet portion of the speaker. I installed the polk db651 (not the shallow mount version), and it fit fine. This is a 2.3125" depth speaker. I know these fit in the soundbar and with the stock grilles, but i don't know about others.
5. The "nitro" amp upgrade is the easiest way to replace the stock amp and get increased power to the soundbar and the sub.
true. But the benefits of the nitro do not equal a new aftermarket amp. That said, mounting a new amp (unless it fits in the stock enclosure) is a bitch. This was my major downfall in my installp. I believe, though i have not confirmed, that the alpine pdx 5 fits in the stock enclosure. If true, i would go this route b/c its a great amp and you won't have to deal with mounting the amp under seat or elsewhere. They also make a marine version (though that area should not get wet!).
6. To install a non-nitro amp upgrade, you will need an aftermarket harness (true?).
not entirely. If you don't want to splice wires, this is true. If you don't mind splicing, determining the right wires, and finding an amp that takes line level inputs (e.g., the new arc audio amps -- which are awesome!), then you can just cut and at a line level converter. To make it easier, though, you can use an "add an amp" made by pac audio/peripheral (now merged companies): C2a-chy2 and chyaa07, respectively.
7. To get the best improvement in sound it is necessary to use soundproofing/deadening material in the soundbar and, preferably, everywhere where there could be vibrations.
debatable. I put dynamat and polyfill in my stock sub enclosure. It now sounds like a real (though still 8") sub.
outstanding questions:
1. What are the dimensions of the stock amp (note: Assumes you have the upgraded sound system)?
2. Once the stock amp is replaced, can the original speaker wires be used to feed new soundbar speakers and a new sub? Yes. But you need to identify each wire for what it is and plug into the right outs of your new sub. Also, the oem speaker wire is like 18 ga, so it could do with some improving.
4. If you replace the amp, are you still limited to 2 ohm speakers/subs for maximum output? That is, is this a limitation of the hu or the amp? This is an amp limitation.if you have specific information on these upgrades, please post so we can all learn from your knowledge!!!:d
also, if anyone has done these upgrades in the past, please post your choice for amp (if in same location as replaced stock amp), sub (and did it fit in stock enclosure), speakers (and do oem grilles fit), and how it sounds.
I will update this first post as i get responses/details.
subjective conclusions from prior threads:
1. It seems that the stock infiniti amp is ok, but it has a crossover that limits the power and/or frequencies sent to the soundbar.
yes, this is correct. But the stock amp is very limiting b/c it has been neutered. I recommend getting a new amp. Optimally, for all seven speakers, but definitely for the sub and at least the rears.
2. The stock amp sends acceptable power to the stock subwoofer, but not enough to just plug in a better sub and get any real improvement.
yes, this is correct. You need a nice amp to power a good subwoofer.
3. To replace the stock sub and keep the stock amp/sub enclosure, you need a dual coil, 2 ohm replacement that is less than 4.5 inches deep.
well, sort of. This is true if you want to keep the stock amp and have it play as loud as the original sub. But, if you get a new amp, you can run any sub that it is capable of powering (2 ohm, 4 ohm; single or dual voice).
4. The soundbar speakers can be replaced with any 6.5" speaker that is equal to or less than 2 3/16" deep (unless you want to keep the stock grilles, which may require more specific choices).
this is not quite correct. The issue with installing in the soundbar is not just the depth, but the shape of the rear "cage"/magnet portion of the speaker. I installed the polk db651 (not the shallow mount version), and it fit fine. This is a 2.3125" depth speaker. I know these fit in the soundbar and with the stock grilles, but i don't know about others.
5. The "nitro" amp upgrade is the easiest way to replace the stock amp and get increased power to the soundbar and the sub.
true. But the benefits of the nitro do not equal a new aftermarket amp. That said, mounting a new amp (unless it fits in the stock enclosure) is a bitch. This was my major downfall in my installp. I believe, though i have not confirmed, that the alpine pdx 5 fits in the stock enclosure. If true, i would go this route b/c its a great amp and you won't have to deal with mounting the amp under seat or elsewhere. They also make a marine version (though that area should not get wet!).
6. To install a non-nitro amp upgrade, you will need an aftermarket harness (true?).
not entirely. If you don't want to splice wires, this is true. If you don't mind splicing, determining the right wires, and finding an amp that takes line level inputs (e.g., the new arc audio amps -- which are awesome!), then you can just cut and at a line level converter. To make it easier, though, you can use an "add an amp" made by pac audio/peripheral (now merged companies): C2a-chy2 and chyaa07, respectively.
7. To get the best improvement in sound it is necessary to use soundproofing/deadening material in the soundbar and, preferably, everywhere where there could be vibrations.
debatable. I put dynamat and polyfill in my stock sub enclosure. It now sounds like a real (though still 8") sub.
outstanding questions:
1. What are the dimensions of the stock amp (note: Assumes you have the upgraded sound system)?
1a. What are its inputs? Harness.
1b. What are its outputs? Harness
1c. Does it have a dedicated sub out? Yes, but line level speaker out.
1d. Pictures? Not by me.
1e. For those who have replaced it, what did you use -- and did it fit in the oem location?
i believe the alpine pdx 5 fits.1b. What are its outputs? Harness
1c. Does it have a dedicated sub out? Yes, but line level speaker out.
1d. Pictures? Not by me.
1e. For those who have replaced it, what did you use -- and did it fit in the oem location?
2. Once the stock amp is replaced, can the original speaker wires be used to feed new soundbar speakers and a new sub? Yes. But you need to identify each wire for what it is and plug into the right outs of your new sub. Also, the oem speaker wire is like 18 ga, so it could do with some improving.
2a. Can the replacement amp be a 5 channel (i.e., with dedicated sub)? Yes! This is the perfect amp to power all six speakers plus the sub.
3. Does it make any sense to leave the stock amp in to power front speakers, and add an amp to power soundbar and sub? This is what i did. However, i recommend getting a really good five channel and running everything off of it.4. If you replace the amp, are you still limited to 2 ohm speakers/subs for maximum output? That is, is this a limitation of the hu or the amp? This is an amp limitation.
also, if anyone has done these upgrades in the past, please post your choice for amp (if in same location as replaced stock amp), sub (and did it fit in stock enclosure), speakers (and do oem grilles fit), and how it sounds.
Last edited by mbwd; 08-01-2009 at 11:39 AM.
09-30-2009, 08:11 AM
#9
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: knee deep
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Answers below.
not entirely. If you don't want to splice wires, this is true. If you don't mind splicing, determining the right wires, and finding an amp that takes line level inputs (e.g., the new arc audio amps -- which are awesome!), then you can just cut and at a line level converter. To make it easier, though, you can use an "add an amp" made by pac audio/peripheral (now merged companies): C2a-chy2 and chyaa07, respectively.
not entirely. If you don't want to splice wires, this is true. If you don't mind splicing, determining the right wires, and finding an amp that takes line level inputs (e.g., the new arc audio amps -- which are awesome!), then you can just cut and at a line level converter. To make it easier, though, you can use an "add an amp" made by pac audio/peripheral (now merged companies): C2a-chy2 and chyaa07, respectively.
PAC "add an amp" says that it won't work w/ system that already had amp...
...kinda confused me.
i just upgraded from res to req, and don't have an amp. i would like to either get the nitro/liberty amp or an aftermarket. w/ the adapter, i could get a rockford aftermarket for the same price as nitro/liberty amp online.
any help would be appreciated.
b_c
09-30-2009, 12:42 PM
#10
PAC "add an amp" says that it won't work w/ system that already had amp...
...kinda confused me.
i just upgraded from res to req, and don't have an amp. i would like to either get the nitro/liberty amp or an aftermarket. w/ the adapter, i could get a rockford aftermarket for the same price as nitro/liberty amp online.
any help would be appreciated.
b_c
...kinda confused me.
i just upgraded from res to req, and don't have an amp. i would like to either get the nitro/liberty amp or an aftermarket. w/ the adapter, i could get a rockford aftermarket for the same price as nitro/liberty amp online.
any help would be appreciated.
b_c
go aftermarket. You will never get a factory amp to work. It would require plugs and wiring your jeep does not have, plus the dealer would have to starscan it. Kinda pointless to do all that when a alpine PDX fits in the same spot and has more power and crossover/power controls. Get one on ebay for $350.