please could you send photo for what connector you replaced because I have seem issue since one year 😞

 

I am not home currently but it was a broken wire on the cam positioning sensor on the passenger side of motor. Four wire connector. I can take a picture later this week.

 

Please try as soon as possible, I need your help because I am very tired of this problem,, Thank you very much for your reply🌹❤️

 

You know where the cam position sensor is right? On top of the valve cover at the back. The plug into that sensor is a 4-wire plug. He got a new plug with pigtail wires, cut the old one off, and spliced the new one in. That is my understanding of it. There isn't much else around that to confuse it with.

part # 68148103-AA

 

thanks so much,
but still I need photo , because I’m already changed wire but not sure if it’s or not

 

I feel like you're pulling our leg, but this picture pretty much sums it up -



I have a hard time thinking someone could change wires on something and not be fully aware what is what back there, but maybe it's just an international misunderstanding.




**not my pictures by the way. credit to this thread on a different forum that I grabbed for quick access -

https://bit.ly/3RW3SRE

 

Having similar issues on my 2014 JK Unlimited. Codes thrown are as follows:

P0344 - Camshaft Pos Sens A Circ Interm Bank1 or Single Sens
P0340 - No Cam Signal At PCM
P2638 - Torque Management Feedback Signal A Range/Perf
C121C - Torque Request Signal Denied

I've seen others complain about the connector to the Bank 1 camshaft sensor, and have also reported that replacing it fixed the problem. The wiring from the connector to the harness is way too short. Once plugged in to the sensor, there's a pulling force on that connector, and the big, fat wiring harness itself can move on the motor (it's not well-secured) as you drive over bumps, thus, pulling and jerking on the connector even more. Surely those of you who have ever disconnected the cable from the sensor noticed this. The wiring is too short. And over time, that pulling on the connector destroys it.

Some have been able to test the voltages and ground on that connector with a multimeter while parked (I mean, obviously while parked). But if your connection is intermittent like mine, then you probably won't be able to catch the problem that way. Everything will test normal - especially because once you unplug the connector to do this, the wiring is now loose and the pulling is gone. I've tried doing some "surgery" on the connector, hoping for a good outcome, as well as cutting back the tape and conduit to loosen up the wiring some, in order to alleviate the pulling. The connector should be replaced, regardless of whether or not that's the problem itself. If it turns out that this isn't the problem, it will be eventually. Surely the added wiring from the replacement connector eliminates the source of the problem (the pulling).

I'll keep you guys posted.


UPDATE: 02 OCT 2022
I have replaced the connector and the sensor. You can also find the connector at Napa, part number EC2794 - it's faster, cheaper and likely better. It's still a problem. When replacing the connector, I did not solder it and use shrink tube. Instead, I used splicers as I thought maybe the close proximity to the motor would weaken solder (better safe than sorry I guess). As the wire on this connector is way long, I looped it over and around the wiring harness mounted to the firewall, to keep it off of the motor and possibly melting the outer insulation.

UPDATE 27 NOV 2022
All in all, it appears that replacing the connector fixed the problem. After replacing it, I did get the codes one time more, but then it stopped. It may be that the computer needed to "learn" that the problem was gone, I don't know. I'm calling it "fixed" at this point. Good luck, ya'll.

 

where did you get that part?