They are 3157's. Here is the list of the lamps from the owner's manual.

Exterior Lights ..... Bulb Type

Backup Lights (2). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3157
Center High Mounted Stop Light (1) . . . . . . . . . L.E.D.
Fog Lights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9145
Front Park/Turn Lights (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3157
Front Side Marker Lights (2). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Headlights (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . H13
Stop/Tail/Turn Lights (2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3157
Underhood Light. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
License Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194

NOTE: Numbers refer to commercial bulb types that
can be purchased from your local authorized dealer.

 

Thank's for the info JD. You went above and beyond and it's really apreciated

 

After a lot of research I ordered the US Gear brake system. It should be delivered on Friday so I can start install this weekend. There isn't much room under the pasenger side dash but will try to fit it there. I don't have a good feel about the size of the solenoid but I hope it will fit in the space directly below the glovebox??? I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Here is a photo of about where I am going to install mine.



There is enough room and it is the best place to locate it. I don't think you will be able to see it from normal sitting height. Also the passenger's feet do not reach that far up (at least mine don't and I'm 6 feet tall).

The big bundle of wires at the right side of the picture contains all of the circuits going to the rear lights. This is where I am going to install my diodes for the lights.

US Gear doesn't give you very explicit directions on mounting the solenoid (unless they have changed the solenoid mount since I got my system) so here is how I mount it.

You basically have to find the place to mount it and then drill a hole or holes through the base plate where you bolts will be located. You can see the hole in the top middle of the plate where I mounted it before. Drill a hole through the floor corresponding to the hole in the plate. Then using an all thread bolt from the engine side with a large heavy washer under the head and on the inside and then put on a nut. I put a bunch of silicone under the washer and bolt head. Tighten this down real tight (and use loctite). Then put another nut on the bolt and a washer. Mount the solenoid over the bolt and attach with another nut. This allow the solenoid to "float" above the carpet. That way you can remove or install the carpet with the solenoid in place. Just cut a slice in the carpet above where the bolt is so it can slide around the bolt. The cable then just runs over the hump behind the heater and stuff. I did test fit the cable through there and it worked fine.

I hope that makes sense. I do think this time I will have to drill new holes in the mounting plate. The one large hole I have in it now seems like it will be right where there is a bracket from the blower assembly. Plus two smaller bolts may be easier to work with.

Be sure to run your bolts from the outside (engine side) to the inside so the solenoid is held on by nuts on the inside. If you ever have to have the blower assembly worked on you will really piss off the mechanic if it is not easy to determine how to move the solenoid. (Don't ask me how I know this...)

Good luck on the install. It does take some time. I usually takes me several days to get it done. But then I check and recheck each part before committing to drilling, cutting, etc.

 

What do you think about installing solenoid directly below the glove box? It is very easy to remove the glovebox if you squeeze the sides, then remove the plastic panel directly below glovebox. There is some space there behind that panel and I can attach the solenoid to the metal bracket below the glovebox. I might try that but won't be able to see if it fits or is sturdy enough until the brake kit comes in the mail and I can tinker with it.

I did decide on going the diode route and will likely tie-in right there in that bundle of wires. Just need to spend some time with the electrical tester to verify the right wires. Not sure when I'll get to that.

 

Here is the wiring information for connector C200 which is where that bundle goes to.

pin - circuit - gauge - color - description

1 - L17 - 18 - WT/OR - LEFT REAR PARK LAMP CONTROL OUTPUT
2 - L63 - 18 - WT/DG - LEFT REAR STOP/TURN SIGNAL CONTROL
5 - L217 - 18 - WT/VT - RIGHT REAR PARK LAMP CONTROL OUTPUT
12 - L62 - 18 - WT/YL - RIGHT REAR STOP/TURN SIGNAL CONTROL

So you want the:

White w/ Orange for left tail light
White w/ Dark Green for left turn signal
White w/ Violet for right tail light
White w/ Yellow for right turn signal

I looked at the space below the glove box and I don't think it will fit. You may be able to barely get the actual solenoid in there but then there is no place to run the cable over to the brake pedel. The end of the solenoid points right into the heater core area and then is a limit to how sharp you can bend the cable. I'm planning on putting on the firewall/floor in the front of the passenger foot well.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll let you know how it goes this weekend (assuming the UPS truck shows up by Friday).

 

Installed the Diodes and the US Gear Unified Tow Brake this last weekend.

The diode install was way easier than installing a bulb kit to the tail lights and it works great. I did test all the wires before cutting but was exactly as you stated above. Only word of caution is make sure you cut the white w/dark green wire. There are two other wires that are white with green but they are a lighter color of green. Don't cut those by mistake. It was difficult trying to get in a position to have two hands under the dashboard so you can install the wiring connectors and see what you are doing. It would have been much easier if I removed the C200 connector but couldn't figure out how to get it out with out thinking I was going to break it. Probably should have just pulled harder.

The US Gear Unified tow brake install went well, it justs takes a lot of time to do it right. I did install the solenoid up under the passenger dash like you showed. That and the taillights took most the weekend because I'm a perfectionist and I was putting holes in my new JK! I will not be able to fine tune and test the brake system until I install a tow bar to the jeep but I'm still waffling about which one to buy so it may be a while. I'll get some pictures of the install when I get a chance.

Thanks for the help

 

How about some pictures of the Tow Brake installed???

 

Here are a few images of the installed tow brake. Installed the solenoid up under the passenger dash. I bolted it in place with the bolts coming through the firewall and did install a spacer behind the solenoid so the carpet could be easily removed. I did have to trim the plastic tab that hold the heater blower in place so the solenoid sat flush against the firewall. Note the red arrow shows where I drilled through the firewall for wiring the tow brake and the tail lights. The green arrow shows the bundle of wires where I spliced in the tail light diodes (before installing them).





I do plan on making a cover for the solenoid out of sheet metal to protect it from the passenger feet. This is probably overkill since it would be very tough for someones foot to reach it or damage it but it is the brake system and I want it to last the life of the jeep.

Here is the cable system connecting to the brake pedal.



It was easy to run the cable from the brake pedal, up across the center console to the solenoid. Any slack can be in the center console. I installed the control box just below the glove box. I'll get some pictures under the hood when I get a chance but that part of the install was easy. Hope this helps.