Snow Wheelin 101
#21
JK Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Riptide
Snow wheeling... take a shovel, jack and saw. If you get stuck, you can jack up the jeep and put logs under the tires. Much easier than trying to dig yourself out.
Wheeling in snow is all about wheel speed. Ideally you can float on top. But once you sink down... DON'T STOP! I can float in 4lo in 3rd gear. In 2nd I'm digging. Due to my gears (3.21) I have a hard time getting to 3rd. But once I do, it makes things a lot easier.
Wheeling in snow is all about wheel speed. Ideally you can float on top. But once you sink down... DON'T STOP! I can float in 4lo in 3rd gear. In 2nd I'm digging. Due to my gears (3.21) I have a hard time getting to 3rd. But once I do, it makes things a lot easier.
#22
JK Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Pape
momentum is the key just find the correct speed to maintain it.
be careful when you snow wheel as it really hard to see what is under it.
If you plan to get on frozen water make sure you have 16"+ of ice thickness.
be careful when you snow wheel as it really hard to see what is under it.
If you plan to get on frozen water make sure you have 16"+ of ice thickness.
#23
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Looking for feedback on chains too. You see, here in California, we are required to install chains in what would be considered mild weather elsewhere. I appreciate the comments on rescue/recovery gear, but what about CHAINS?
Whenever people mention chains, there is this big sucking sound ...
Appreciate any feedback!
-Dawn
Whenever people mention chains, there is this big sucking sound ...
Appreciate any feedback!
-Dawn
Practically speaking... I lived in the mountains east of Los Angeles for years, about 5 miles from a ski resort. Drove on a fair amount of snow. It was snowing there last week for example, though I don't live there any more.
I remember going out and buying a set of chains when I first moved out there, and carrying them around for a few years. Never used 'em. Not once in over 10 years of driving through a fair amount of snow by SoCal standards was I ever hassled for not wearing them. I thought I was going to be required to once because a bunch of people were stopped but when I started slowing down a cop started waving his hands and said something along the lines of, "keep going! Keep going! If you slow down you'll get stuck!" <-- this applies to the OP too.
It wasn't because I had M/S tires either. All season tires on passenger cars.
Some of the roads had flip-down "chains required" signs. There must be a union rule that keeps them from driving out to flip the signs when there is snow on the road.
Your experience may differ but that's mine.
#24
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Originally Posted by OnBelay
Whenever people mention chains, there is this big sucking sound ...
It sucks.... but If you have no choice or are a bit nuts.
Just decide before you get it stuck and then try to do it.
Check them often and use the 'spider' type bungee hold ons they help the most. Don't spin them hard the chains will shred fenders if they break. The diamond cut are the best check them on any skidder in a log block. Don't go cheap if you are planning to use them.
Buy that lotto ticket for the tracks it would be so worth it
Last edited by MountainJK; 01-12-2011 at 07:13 AM.
#26
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Originally Posted by MountainJK
Just picked up a new pair of diamond cut chains today plus some repair links $140
Yes I broke a chain...
Yes I broke a chain...
What brand?
#27
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How much snow are you talking about? I have never had chains, but momentum as said before is key. This was yesterday with my 285 Duratracs. We picked up 16" and had some from before. The snow was up to my steps. If you get stuck the good thing is that you just made a trail behind you. Back up straight and it gives you the ability to make a run for it! Good luck and have fun! Oh yeah stay warm!
#28
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One thing to mention here...Chains are chains, and they're great on icy hills...if you have the clearance to run them.
But for all-around performance in winter wheeling, airing down your tires is the #1 thing that will allow you to deal with deep snow, slippery hills, and other winter obstacles. The increased footprint makes a HUGE difference when you start dealing with ugly climbs and deep snow.
I've watched an XJ on 31's slide sideways on an off-camber section, fish-tailing all over the place. Once we got the driver to stop in a safe place, we checked what he was running for pressure...it was 20 psi. We talked him into airing down to 12 psi...and when he started moving again, there wasn't even a hint of problems or wheelspin...even though he was dealing with an off-camber section that was steeper and more challenging that the original one.
But for all-around performance in winter wheeling, airing down your tires is the #1 thing that will allow you to deal with deep snow, slippery hills, and other winter obstacles. The increased footprint makes a HUGE difference when you start dealing with ugly climbs and deep snow.
I've watched an XJ on 31's slide sideways on an off-camber section, fish-tailing all over the place. Once we got the driver to stop in a safe place, we checked what he was running for pressure...it was 20 psi. We talked him into airing down to 12 psi...and when he started moving again, there wasn't even a hint of problems or wheelspin...even though he was dealing with an off-camber section that was steeper and more challenging that the original one.
#29
JK Freak
That's exactly what I am worried about, and why I was asking for recommendations. I know there are chains out there that are used for snowmobiles, snow plows, etc., so there has to be something heavy duty for the Jeep.
#30
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What broke was a repair link on a old set, tried to put out my Bronco (plow truck).
They get old and will rust if you don't hang them when stored, I fixed them with a cheap link last year. Don't go cheap, lol, leason learned.
I found a slide together repair link to fix it (this is the best repair link ever), and then a new pair of chains. The new set are called Texas Longhorn Ugrip with cams (UC-320 9/32) they are like claws. On the smaller tires 33/9.50 they can't cross them and have less cross bars because of the twist cam lock, very nice easy to tighten up, also get the spider bungie with them.
I just put them on to dark now, I will try them at day break. It was a late night, Snowed in, got stuck three times (thick ice under 8" powder), run out of gas, broke a light and a wire, windshield cracked in JK, plus the chain. I'm calling it a day, need some light see what the morning will bring.
They get old and will rust if you don't hang them when stored, I fixed them with a cheap link last year. Don't go cheap, lol, leason learned.
I found a slide together repair link to fix it (this is the best repair link ever), and then a new pair of chains. The new set are called Texas Longhorn Ugrip with cams (UC-320 9/32) they are like claws. On the smaller tires 33/9.50 they can't cross them and have less cross bars because of the twist cam lock, very nice easy to tighten up, also get the spider bungie with them.
I just put them on to dark now, I will try them at day break. It was a late night, Snowed in, got stuck three times (thick ice under 8" powder), run out of gas, broke a light and a wire, windshield cracked in JK, plus the chain. I'm calling it a day, need some light see what the morning will bring.
Last edited by MountainJK; 01-13-2011 at 10:04 PM.