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Originally Posted by redx08
(Post 2400697)
They are axles out of a 2002 F350. Yes I am running the electronics in the front. I bought the solid axle spyntec kit in the front instead of the ford factory unit bearings. The sensors bolt into the machined spindles on the solid kit with small modifications.
So just to clarify... The stock Ford tone rings have the same tooth count and cut as the JK tone rings? - OR - you used modified rear JK tone rings pressed on instead of the ford ones? Also, more info on the mod to fit the JK sensor to the spintech hub? as simple as drilling out the hole and re-tapping it to the JK thread? sick build. I've been looking on craigslist but will be scouting the junkyards soon :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by jkx0778
(Post 2487227)
So just to clarify... The stock Ford tone rings have the same tooth count and cut as the JK tone rings? - OR - you used modified rear JK tone rings pressed on instead of the ford ones?
Also, more info on the mod to fit the JK sensor to the spintech hub? as simple as drilling out the hole and re-tapping it to the JK thread? sick build. I've been looking on craigslist but will be scouting the junkyards soon :thumbsup: http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9020207.jpg |
I know you already said that you don't like the unitized bearings... but, for others looking at this build. A lot of money and aggrivation can be saved by running the unit bearings from Currie. I think both sides were $7-800. The Stock JK wheel sensors fit in these units. They just mount backwards. The new speed sensors are about $10 each. And the stock front shafts will work for now if money is a problem. Just need new outter stub shafts. Mine was in for under $3000 in parts all done. Ring/Pinion/Detroit - $1000. $1000 on shafts. $400 in steering parts and ball joints. And $500 on TNT Customs truss and all hardware for mounting the axle under the JK.
Thanks for the info btw on the 14 bolt tone ring and sensor mount. The 14 bolts are in the garage and undergoing transformation. I'm still up in the air with the tone rings though. I had my heart set on cutting the outters of the 14 bolt and installing C's for Matching D-60 knuckles bearings and brakes to have rear steer. I found a full hydro rear setup that auto centers itself so driving on the road won't be a problem. The problem with this is the cost. It will more than double my rear axle build... that was supposed to be less than half of the front build $$$. |
Originally Posted by TexsDream77
(Post 2516371)
I know you already said that you don't like the unitized bearings... but, for others looking at this build. A lot of money and aggrivation can be saved by running the unit bearings from Currie. I think both sides were $7-800. The Stock JK wheel sensors fit in these units. They just mount backwards. The new speed sensors are about $10 each. And the stock front shafts will work for now if money is a problem. Just need new outter stub shafts. Mine was in for under $3000 in parts all done.
Anyway I got the front driveshaft built and will be sliding the shafts in tonight for a little offroading action on sat. Should have the gears and lockers ordered in the next couple weeks. |
Originally Posted by redx08
(Post 2520108)
This is good info, but I also wanted to go to 35 spline outers. Do once I added up the unit bearings, outer shafts, and lockouts the spyntec kit was not to much more. Also currie did not offer 8 lug unit bearings for the jk sensors. My front 60 will not cost me but about 200 more than yours. Plus my 35 spline outers are off the shelf spicer units, but if they break I am going chromo anyway.
Anyway I got the front driveshaft built and will be sliding the shafts in tonight for a little offroading action on sat. Should have the gears and lockers ordered in the next couple weeks. |
Did a little wheeling at a local place. I was impressed at how well it did without gears or lockers. There are a couple things I still need to get done, but overall i was happy about the performance offroad. Here are a couple of pictures.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9100248.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9100240.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9100234.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9100227.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9100220.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9090219.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/P9090218.jpg |
Wow :eek2: I am impressed
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Couple of videos, go pro was on my tie rod
http://www.youtube.com/embed/pzPDx8y0IKQ http://www.youtube.com/embed/k2O00jyt104 |
Did you get a chance to work on the ABS/Tone rings to see if you could get the lights off?
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Originally Posted by Mallow
(Post 2544904)
Did you get a chance to work on the ABS/Tone rings to see if you could get the lights off?
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Originally Posted by redx08
(Post 2545489)
Not yet, but I do know how to. I haven't had the time lately. I am going to get my front hubs machined to fit tone rings on them. Dynatrac sales tone rings that will fit on the dana 60 hub. In the process of ordering th tone rings now.
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Originally Posted by Mallow
(Post 2545524)
Do you know if they are the JK tooth count (52) or 55 like other rings? Are you planning on using the stock sensors with the aftermarket rings? Just getting some ideas of what is involved for light free upgrade.
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I remounted my rear ORI so I can have more up travel and I came very close to rubbing on the driver side tire at full stuff. After I charge my shocks I will have 6.5 inches of up travel and maintain the same height.
Finished up the mounts yesterday. Boxed in my rear track bar mount http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...0-22161739.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/PA240001.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/PA240003.jpg Driver side view http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/PA240004.jpg Passenger side view http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/PA240005.jpg Frame Notch http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/PA240006.jpg |
Originally Posted by redx08
I remounted my rear ORI so I can have more up travel and I came very close to rubbing on the driver side tire at full stuff. After I charge my shocks I will have 6.5 inches of up travel and maintain the same height.
Finished up the mounts yesterday. Boxed in my rear track bar mount Driver side view Passenger side view Frame Notch I've got a build thread going on here and pirate. Have u had a chance to beat on it yet? |
Originally Posted by Jeff76
(Post 2611973)
Nice! I'll be mounting 14" kings in mine. I'm gonna go through the tub if I need to for desired ride height. I want to stay outboard of the frame without notching but will go inside frame up through rear floor if I need too.
I've got a build thread going on here and pirate. Have u had a chance to beat on it yet? |
Yah I was messing with it today and don't think it's possible. Looks like the tire will hit the coilover at full stuff. Im going to mock up my design with some 1" emt conduit and see what happens.
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Originally Posted by Jeff76
(Post 2613556)
Yah I was messing with it today and don't think it's possible. Looks like the tire will hit the coilover at full stuff. Im going to mock up my design with some 1" emt conduit and see what happens.
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Originally Posted by redx08
What are your plans for the front? |
Very nice!!
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Where did u get the highsteer arms for your balljoint 60?
Did u have the knuckles machined and tapped? |
Originally Posted by Jeff76
(Post 2724160)
Where did u get the highsteer arms for your balljoint 60?
Did u have the knuckles machined and tapped? |
Originally Posted by redx08
Fordtechguru off of pirate will do it. He machined, tapped, and made the arm for a good price with quick turn around. Buddy of mine who owns a 4x4 shop said he can weld the arms straight to the knuckles. Clean, preheat and weld. He was doing this before arms or kits were ever made. I may go this route. If not I have to buy new knuckles and arms$$$. The only advantage as that it will look better cosmetically. |
I had high steer arms welded to the knuckles on a my old jeep people told me it was stupid and dangerous I have 39s on it and beat it to hell never broke a weld on the arm.
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Is that it?
Good Onya, Moffs |
Seriously gives some motivation. Awesome build.
If you don't run any of the speed sensors or abs sensors what would happen? Would you only have the ESP/bas light on or are there more issues? |
why would you not want to run the speed sensors??? it's probably the easiest (an least expensive) step in putting a set of junk yard axles under your jk, and will make it much safer to drive on the highway.
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Originally Posted by Curiosity
why would you not want to run the speed sensors??? it's probably the easiest (an least expensive) step in putting a set of junk yard axles under your jk, and will make it much safer to drive on the highway.
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Originally Posted by Unlimited5.7
(Post 2735649)
Just a question as to how the system works. I've had my jk since it was new in 07 and always said when it's paid for I will do a swap..... Now is that time. Just now starting to research and seems like you guys know.
I'm in the same boat as you.. mine is paid off in 6 months. I've already run down the d60 front end from a 01 f350 w/ disc brakes. Not sure if i'll do the rear end at the same time or not.... depends on whether or not i can find a good 14 bolt in a reasonable amount of time. |
What do you do about the rear e-brake?
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Originally Posted by Unlimited5.7
(Post 2736500)
What do you do about the rear e-brake?
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Originally Posted by Unlimited5.7
(Post 2734575)
Seriously gives some motivation. Awesome build.
If you don't run any of the speed sensors or abs sensors what would happen? Would you only have the ESP/bas light on or are there more issues? |
This is fixed with tone rings on the hubs? I don't completely understand the system yet but I'm close. My only worry in my swap had been the electronics, and sounds like this is a lot easier to overcome than I had thought. Thanks and hopefully my jeep will be sitn like yours soon! It's the exact look I want!
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Originally Posted by Unlimited5.7
(Post 2739939)
This is fixed with tone rings on the hubs? I don't completely understand the system yet but I'm close. My only worry in my swap had been the electronics, and sounds like this is a lot easier to overcome than I had thought. Thanks and hopefully my jeep will be sitn like yours soon! It's the exact look I want!
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Sounds simple enough..... One more dumb question, there are also tone rings on the front hubs aswell?
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I love what you did. My jeep will have 3.5" lift and 39.5 irox with flat fenders
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Originally Posted by sringer
(Post 2743642)
I love what you did. My jeep will have 3.5" lift and 39.5 irox with flat fenders
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Originally Posted by TexsDream77
(Post 2738422)
Disc Brake rear 14 bolt axles have an ebrake. Just have to mate the two cables together. I'll let you know how I do it when I get mine in. I'm having bad thoughts with my rear 14 bolt build. I'm still wanting the rear 14 with D-60 outters from a 550 like the front one w/ full hydro rear steer. If I go this set-up, I can ditch the modified tone rings for stock replacement units for a Ford since all 4 corners would have the same unit bearings and tone rings would match. For an e-brake, going this route would mean setting up a hand brake off of the rear drive shaft like my old CJ. I would go for a bigger unit like one from a med duty box truck.
thats been my plan so far but i have realized after the front its all kinda experimental |
awesome build, someday I hope to do something similar :thumbsup:
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Originally Posted by Unlimited5.7
(Post 2743595)
Sounds simple enough..... One more dumb question, there are also tone rings on the front hubs aswell?
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http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...ireandice6.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...ireandice5.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...ireandice4.jpg Pictures do not do this angle justice, but the jeep felt very stable in this pic. http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...ireandice3.jpg http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/t...ireandice1.jpg |
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