jscherb

The factory inner fenders will be used - the design of the factory inner fenders makes adapting them easy. The part of the factory inner fender that's inside the body will be used, and the part that's inside the fender will be removed. The cut lines are indicated by the red dashed lines; the part not used is marked with yellow X's because the flat fenders will not require inner fenders.

mrw

Jeff, I started cutting today. The 2 door panels have too much curvature to slide forward to the front door. Because the glass is curved I think I have to keep the side panel in the rearward position. Since I need to the forward edge of the two door side panel to be against the door it will have to be sectioned. I am going to mock up a smaller window directly behind the door. I will have to section the old side panel from the 4 door top. Not quite sure how it will look yet. I am also considering extending the drip rail instead of cutting the existing piece off. Any suggestions for adding that? Use a 1/4" dowel with form release and lay some mat over it?

I don't think I am going to make the top modular. My son is the one who drives the jeep and he says he will not take the panels off. I also will be making a full soft top in the spring.[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

jscherb

Here's how I would do it - I would make a "temporary female mold" or wood, plastic or metal, and attach it to the hardtop with a hot glue gun. Then I'd lay the new fiberglass inside the mold and when it's cured I'd break the temp mold off the hardtop (hot glue holds well enough for this purpose but is easy to remove). Then I'd touch it up with a little sanding and possible filler as necessary. Doing it this way you have the best chance of it matching the original drip rail you'll be extending.



Edit: don't forget to wax the mold so the fiberglass doesn't stick to it .

jscherb

What matching front and rear flat fenders would look like:

Four Low

YES ! That's the "Right Look" ! Can't wait to see this unfold

jscherb

I'm getting ready to start both the flatfender and the Retro Rhino projects, so things will begin to "unfold" soon, I'm setting up the projects in the workshop now. The fenders I'll use to derive an exact-fit bolt flange for the flat fenders. The JK and FSJ hoods will be sectioned and spliced to creat a master hood to make the mold for the Retro Rhino hood from. Using parts of both hoods I'll end up with a perfect fit on the JK with a hood that has the shape and curves of the original FSJ hood.



Haven't decided yet if I'll start a detailed thread somewhere on either project or if I'll just post occasional updates here.

mrw

Jeff, I was able to get a little done this week. The pieces directly behind the door are both in and the rear panels are in. I ended up using the West Systems six-10 epoxy to get everything set in place. My goal is to get the top together enough that I can remove it and turn it upside down to fiberglass the panels in from the inside. I am searching for the appropriate size glass before I make the "frame" for the glass. I would like to have the windows operable like your FJ40 window. From looking at all the pictures of various vehicles I think the old boxy extended cab S10 pickup window looks to be the right height. I cant tell if the rake to the window is appropriate yet. Once I find the windows I will section the window frames from the 4 door JK top so I can get them recessed to match the other windows. In the mean time I may fill the opening with a panel and cut the opening to fit. Do you think it would be better to try and lay the fiberglass mat while it is on the top or make a panel that can be trimmed to fit? If I scribe the profile of the openings I could cut a few bucks and cover it with 1/4" plywood or plexiglass to make the molds.

I can't thank you enough for providing so many detailed write-ups on the process. I would never had been brave enough to cut up two perfectly good tops to make one. I have owned the Jeep since 2012 and always wanted a full length hardtop and figured sooner or later someone out there would have made one but no such luck...so here I go.

jscherb

If the opening you're asking about filling is the one in the photo, I would do it is in place on the Jeep to ensure that the fit is correct - if you do it off the Jeep it the shape may not be right and it may not fit the same after you do the fill. I would do use a piece of 1/8" Masonite as a form - the Masonite would go on the outside (smooth side in), and be attached to the existing parts of the top with sheet metal screws, the screw holes can be filled later. I'd get the Masonite cut, fitted and screwed in place, then I'd remove it, wax it, shoot it with PVA mold release, and screw it back in place. Then I'd lay up several layers of fiberglass mat against the form on the inside of the top. When its cured I'd unscrew the Masonite.

Good luck.

jscherb

For a while I've wanted to build a cargo rack that takes advantage of my HD tailgate hinges and tailgate reinforcement. I've been working on a prototype for the last few days - here are some photos of the completed prototype, which I'm calling the Overland Rack. The rack attaches to the hinges and tailgate reinforcement and swings with the tailgate. It's designed to clear at least a 37" spare (mine is only a 32).







A Hi-Lift can be mounted across the back, and this morning's sewing project can also be seen in the above photos - an ACU camo cover to protect the jack mechanism from the elements. The ACU camo "Tactical Spare Cover" was another recent sewing project.

The rack also has Molle grids on both sides, and also bolt holes for Rotopax or similar liquid containers on the sides.

In matching ACU camo, a Molle military surplus "sustainment pouch" on the driver's side (there are also two on the Tactical Spare Cover):



A 2.5-gallon Rubican on the passenger side:



The rack has a plug-and-play third brake light - the plug is compatible with the factory third brake light plug, so it just plugs right in to the factory wiring.

It also has a step for climbing up on top, so here's a video of the 6'6", 225-lb. gorilla test I usually do for projects like these:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpPdmDdLaXY The complete rack weighs just under 39 pounds. Light weight + high load carrying capacity were important design goals for this project, I don't believe in using up cargo capacity by having unnecessarily heavy cargo racks.

karls10jk

^^ that's awesome Jeff. I don't know that I've got the creativity that you do but if I did, I'd like to think I would create these kinds of things.