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Laugh now but envy my 1/2 doors later...

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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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From: Austin, Tx
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Looks like its gonna work out great.
Can't wait to see pics of finished doors.
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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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Default Looks Great
I'm thinking a set of your rear 1/2 doors and Camp's Nack would look awesome. Good job on your project-once again American ingenuity at it's best.
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Old May 22, 2009 | 03:38 AM
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From: Chanute, Ks
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Originally Posted by saltman
Looks great! You don't want the measurements from the Elements doors. It looks like they had a 3 year old trace it out. They don't match the curves well at all. There are gaps you can stick your fingers between. My neighbor has them and they suck.
I just need the angles on the top to match the element doors. I am going to get the element uppers to it has to be roughly the same for them to match up.

Originally Posted by saltman
I can photograph my factory half doors and overlay a 1" x 1" (or .5" x .5" or whatever you may need) grid on AutoCAD for you if that would help. Make a pdf ?
That would be sweet, but as I said above, I need the elements. Thanks anyway!


Jim
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Old May 22, 2009 | 01:35 PM
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I see what you are saying about the uppers. This probably won't help but here you go.

This is a 1" grid. I can give the CAD file to anyone that wants it. You could print it out and cut the shape if you want. The fronts are slightly bigger than 36" so they would have to be plotted sideways.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version Name: Front.jpg Views: 289 Size: 108.9 KB ID: 24539   Click image for larger version Name: Rear.jpg Views: 229 Size: 106.3 KB ID: 24540  
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Old May 22, 2009 | 08:49 PM
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From: Chanute, Ks
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Originally Posted by saltman
I see what you are saying about the uppers. This probably won't help but here you go.

This is a 1" grid. I can give the CAD file to anyone that wants it. You could print it out and cut the shape if you want. The fronts are slightly bigger than 36" so they would have to be plotted sideways.
That is really sweet! I wish someone could do that with the elements.
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Old May 23, 2009 | 03:51 AM
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I'm looking forward to the finished pics
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 04:30 AM
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From: Chanute, Ks
Default Frame is cut, welding tonight!
I finally got the frame cut and hope to weld it tonight. Does anyone know if the sheet metal will distort/warp when I weld it to the tubing? The sheet metal is 18gu and the tubing is 14gu.



First post updated...
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:01 AM
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From: warren county nj
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you should tack weld first,before you finish welds,BTW the flat metal does not have the bow(jk body has some curves-not square),the skin should go over nicely shaped "base platform",the tubing is huge(2x2 ? 14gauge),the final half door is going to be heavier then stock full door...? i am not criticizing,just a suggestion
without DIY's there is no jeep
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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From: Chanute, Ks
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Originally Posted by atuldo
you should tack weld first,before you finish welds,BTW the flat metal does not have the bow(JFK body has some curves-not square),the skin should go over nicely shaped "base platform",the tubing is huge(X ? gauger),the final half door is going to be heavier then stock full door...? i am not criticizing,just a suggestion
without Doy's there is no jeep:thumb sup:
I am going to slightly offset the bottom horizontal rail and then grind the vertical rails to match to get the curve close to matching the body. That worked really well with wood but we'll see how it goes with steel The tubing is 1X2 (yes, overkill but it was cheap!!!) and the total weight is surprisingly light. I laid all the pieces on the skin to see how heavy it is going to be and it FEELS quite a bit lighter than my buddies OEM 1/2 doors. It would have been cool to use 1X1.5 aluminum tubing and 3/16" aluminum skin but I don't know anyone that welds aluminum and it was a LOT more expensive.

Thanks for the tips!!!
Last edited by yellow08jk; Jun 4, 2009 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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