obxjeep

Agreed.... which brand of spacer broke... any hints, or do we need to wait a few more months

codcape

My Rubicon Unlimited is being shipped Friday!!! Jan.11th 2008...Before I buy a lift and 35's.. Someone please tell me if the Rubicon Express 2 1/2 lift is worth the money...also what wheel offset ( I was leaning towards AEV 17" Pintlers)with 35 12.50 17 , or an 18" set up AEV's are 17 so another similar rim..and a good quiet tire..I live in Naples Fl. and Summer on Cape Cod so I wont see much Mud and Snow....Help!!! I dont want to have regrets after I set it up..BTW I had a Hummer H2 that just came off lease and cant wait to get the Rubi...
Thanks GREAT SITE!!!

NE Wrangling

XRC-8 Smittybilt winch. Some bolts are rusting in the first week 15 bucks to fix but still? Also wiring is reversed from what I've seen on others and the chrome on the winch is already corroding. Ok salt on NE roads can do this but after 5 days? That's just crazy.

Ragin Gage

you can't have regrets if don't even have the jeep...like buyer's remorse without the purchase. get a black diamond or teraflex lift either is very high quality. I got BFG MTs and they have a very quiet hum on the highway...not bad at all and they look tuff....check my gallery. price is half that of Nittos, which are loud anyways.

an H2 huh? ...welcome back from the dark side.

codcape

Ragin,
Thanks for the feedback....Your right, about not having the Rubi yet.... but I dont want to order the wrong lift etc...The Jeep Dealer just puts in Skyjacker and offers the Bling Wheels that look like they belong on a Pimps car!!!
I'm going 2 1/2 -3 inch, AEV 17's, 35 12.50...


2008 Rubicon Unlimited
Red Rock
Mygig
The only thing I didnt order was the Engine Block Heater.....

Thanks Again!

RubiconOrdie

Personally I say get the BD lift. If you have to stay RE then get the 3.5 inch, you want all that comes in that kit.

Covert_Ops

Why BDS over RE?

codcape

How about Fab Tech 3" Lift for a Rubicon Unlimited??

ybnormal2

I have had a lot of great parts purchases, but two to avoid.

Smittybuilt seat covers. The stitching was already coming out of the drivers seat before I even installed it and the side air bag flap was not even big enough to cover the opening, sent them back after installing the first seat.

The second and a must avoid was a hardrock rear bumper. There is not really any adjustment to the bumper when installing since it used two of the factory frame holes in the center. To start I had to run a tap through the center bolt holes to get all the paint and weld splatter out of them. Then after installing found out the 2" reveiver was too small inside to except an attachments. It is made in two pieces. You guessed it mine were not alligned properly before welding so nothing would slide inside. I had to use a dynafile to clean out 3/32' of steel off the top and bottom seam. Then when I went off road the bumper rubbed the body, at trhe rear quarter panel, not to mention if you bumped something your totally screwed because there is no clearance. I cut 3/8" of height out of the vertical center plate below the rear door and from the tire recess out I cut material away. Starting at the recess I had to remove 1" tapered to 1-1/4" at the outboard ends and around the side to clear the body. On top of it all I got ignored by 4wheelparts when I asked to send it back prior to cutting the thing up. I hate it, should have bought a JP brand like I did for the front.

This is a great thread thanks to everyone.

zerodown

kinda wish i had saved a few bucks and went with the tera 2.5" lift instead of the 3" with the adj. track bar.