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How Did I Get Water In The Engine

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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cmpmacchia
Is your knock on start up?
yep...


My tranny also knocks.... in neutral
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 07:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Piginajeep
yep...


My tranny also knocks.... in neutral
Maybe your pigs are joyriding in your jk in the mud and water while you sleep at night
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 07:52 PM
  #23  
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Just thinking out loud here, but could water enter the oil pan through where the dip stick goes into the pan/block? I know they are usually sealed with an o-ring, but what if the oring was missing or damaged?
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 04:59 AM
  #24  
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Your very own opening statement is the answer to your own question.

"I went through some deep mud about 3 foot deep and some other muddy water about 2 foot."

Your Jeep DOES have an air intake, you know?
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 05:04 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Hellbilly
Ok, not going to get in a typing match, so I'll just say this and be done. I am a former shop forman at a car dealership. I have worked at several dealerships. I have an associates degree in auto technology. I have been to countless GM schools and seminars. I may know a little something about what I am talking about. That being said, one way to clean carbon deposits out of your heads, pistons, and valve stems is to purge your motor. You purge your motor by running it at 2500 rpms and pouring water into the intake at normal operating temperture. This will steam clean your pistons, valve stems, and heads, removing any carbon deposits. If there was enough water sucked into the intake to get past the rings, the motor would have hydrolocked. Agree or disagree, that's the way it is.
This is absolutely correct. We used to dribble a 12OZ coke bottle of water through the carburetor at about the same RPM. It's a VERY old trick for removing carbon. All it is, is a VERY cheap form of water injection.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 05:39 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hellbilly
Ok, not going to get in a typing match, so I'll just say this and be done. I am a former shop forman at a car dealership. I have worked at several dealerships. I have an associates degree in auto technology. I have been to countless GM schools and seminars. I may know a little something about what I am talking about. That being said, one way to clean carbon deposits out of your heads, pistons, and valve stems is to purge your motor. You purge your motor by running it at 2500 rpms and pouring water into the intake at normal operating temperture. This will steam clean your pistons, valve stems, and heads, removing any carbon deposits. If there was enough water sucked into the intake to get past the rings, the motor would have hydrolocked. Agree or disagree, that's the way it is.

X10000000000000 Been doin just that on my truck for years...small lil' squirt bottle, rev 'er up and squirt & watch the black carbon come rolling out the exhaust..............

You musta got a HELLUVA alot of water in there....or had the RPM's way to low is my thinking.

Sorry this happend & I hope they dont screw ya' on the warrentee
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY
At the dealer I worked at we shot crushed walnut shells with compressed air at the valves to knock the carbon off...

But I think my dad is the one who taught me about dribbling water in the intake, and his dad who taught him.

I think he taught it to me the same day he stuck a screwdriver in the spark plug boot and had me hold it while he cranked to see if there was spark. Bastard.


Just kidding... love ya dad... can't wait to teach my kid that trick!
My dad taught me the same trick.. It must be like a right of passage or something..
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 01:53 PM
  #28  
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Well went to the dealership today to look at the jeep up on the lift there was some metal shavings in the oil also. Thanks to a good friend who works there THIS WILL BE COVERED UNDER MY WARRANTY. Dont ask me how he pulled this but Im very glad he did and grateful. They have to order a short block pretty much just the bottom of the engine from the heads down, no time frame on when I ll get my baby back but hey at least Im not paying for it. LESSON LEARNED

There is a possiblity the seal from the oil pan was not tight enough and water and muck could have leaked in through there Im really not 100% sure how this happend but Will be most def be taking more caution around deep water from now on.

Originally Posted by Piginajeep
theres no fucking way that mud pit would have cause the problem...

its not like you were in the deep side. You did'nt stall the jeep or anything, so I doubt water could have traveled through the muffler and cats to the engine..


btw,,, I did say don't drive through that mud
I was'nt deep in it and didnt stall Pigina watched me drive right through. Although The intial splash over the hood could have done it the filter was damp but Its hard to tell how much water got through it.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #29  
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if it makes you feel better, My oil pan was loose from the factory, it leaked alot of oil, the rear main was bad too.
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Old Sep 11, 2008 | 02:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
I have an Airaid with a prefilter. I've been through alot of mudholes and water with it. There has got to be something else that's causing these jk engines to hydrolock or maybe I've just been lucky. Maybe not ALL, but some are hydrolocking with the stock airbox and not a whole lot of water. I had a CJ-5 and a CJ-7, ran open style airfilters, You know the chrome dishpan looking ones and mudded the hell outta them without a prob. I just find it hard to believe a little splashing is what's causing these engines to hydrolock. Anyone with a snorkel hydrolocked yet? I'll bet someone will soon.
MK Can You give me the part # or something to your pre-filter I ordered one but it was the wrong size not sure which one fits the JK intake.

Yea Im very glad Im not paying out the ass for this, Im still unsure on how it happend I would like to know for sure even though this is almost impossible. Just thinking of ways to avoid this from happening again, minus the obvious. What vaccum lines are you guys taliking about the ones from the diffs? B/C they were connected before although I will mostly likely replace my diff oil when I get it back just to be safe.
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