pros/cons to beadlock wheels
#1
JK Newbie
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pros/cons to beadlock wheels
Now, I dont really know much about them, but what are the advantages and disadvantages of beadlocks? They definitely look tough but what purpose do they serve? More expensive?
#2
JK Junkie
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Advantages: A. Looks. B. Capability (but if you don't know what they are / do, you're not likely to need THAT kind of capability for the offroading you're going to be doing, IMHO - and there's nothing wrong with that!)
Disadvantages: They're heavier than standard wheels, and definitely cost more $$$.
Maybe some more experienced wheelers would like to correct me on any of the above?
#3
JK Junkie
Advantages: A. Looks. B. Capability (but if you don't know what they are / do, you're not likely to need THAT kind of capability for the offroading you're going to be doing, IMHO - and there's nothing wrong with that!)
Disadvantages: They're heavier than standard wheels, and definitely cost more $$$.
Disadvantages: They're heavier than standard wheels, and definitely cost more $$$.
Last edited by Renegade; 02-05-2007 at 09:15 AM.
#4
JK Freak
They are also very time consuming to install...lots of bolts/nuts to tighten, and then they have to be done with a torque wrench. Usually about anywhere between 40 per wheel x 5 wheels.
Couple hundred bolts to tighten.
They are also very expensive.
I have seen Fake Beadlocks for sale before.
Couple hundred bolts to tighten.
They are also very expensive.
I have seen Fake Beadlocks for sale before.
#5
I've also heard that some can be prone to leak air and hard to balance out. I'm sure this is less likely on some of the higher-end ones.
Bottom line, though, if you don't really need them, I'd pass.
Bottom line, though, if you don't really need them, I'd pass.
#7
People were four wheeling LONG before beadlocks existed. Heck, the first solution was to run a tube tire and use screws to hold the bead in place.
Also consider that MOST beadlocks only lock the outside bead so the inner one can still pop off, but is generally less prone to doing so.
If you want some stronger bead hold, you can do several things:
1) carefully examne the wheel you intend to use and look for a a good raised ridge to hold the bead in place. Many aluminum wheels do not have a high ridge to limit the stresses on a fairly thin section of the rim. Steel wheels can be a better solution
2) run a tire that has a rubber shoulder that protects the bead area of the rim from impacts that might cause the bead to fail.
3) Use a rubber adhesive to 'glue' the tire into place. This makes tire changes later a real PIA, but it does seem to work in holding the tire.
4) Don't air down so much. In terrain where you are most likely to knock a bead off, you don't usually need to run the really low pressures unless you are into serious rock crawling, and then you are likely not running a street vehicle anyway. Running 15-20 lbs in many places will do the job. Heck, I've been lazy and not aired down on many an occation and had few problems.
I've also seen really expensive beadlock wheels damaged from rocks where a non-beadlock rims were just scuffed. knocking a bolt head off, or damaging one seriously so that a socket no longer fits can really make for a nasty repair later.
If you are worried, run a cheap modular steel wheel that can be repaired and run it an inch or so narrower than most people recommend for the tire size. For example, a 7" wide wheel on a 10" tire, an 8" wheel on a 12" tire, etc.
Lastly, stick to as narrow a diameter wheel as you can run. Larger sidewalls make for a less steady highway ride, but provide a lot more protection off-road. Sure, 15" and 16" wheels are so "old school" these days.
Also consider that MOST beadlocks only lock the outside bead so the inner one can still pop off, but is generally less prone to doing so.
If you want some stronger bead hold, you can do several things:
1) carefully examne the wheel you intend to use and look for a a good raised ridge to hold the bead in place. Many aluminum wheels do not have a high ridge to limit the stresses on a fairly thin section of the rim. Steel wheels can be a better solution
2) run a tire that has a rubber shoulder that protects the bead area of the rim from impacts that might cause the bead to fail.
3) Use a rubber adhesive to 'glue' the tire into place. This makes tire changes later a real PIA, but it does seem to work in holding the tire.
4) Don't air down so much. In terrain where you are most likely to knock a bead off, you don't usually need to run the really low pressures unless you are into serious rock crawling, and then you are likely not running a street vehicle anyway. Running 15-20 lbs in many places will do the job. Heck, I've been lazy and not aired down on many an occation and had few problems.
I've also seen really expensive beadlock wheels damaged from rocks where a non-beadlock rims were just scuffed. knocking a bolt head off, or damaging one seriously so that a socket no longer fits can really make for a nasty repair later.
If you are worried, run a cheap modular steel wheel that can be repaired and run it an inch or so narrower than most people recommend for the tire size. For example, a 7" wide wheel on a 10" tire, an 8" wheel on a 12" tire, etc.
Lastly, stick to as narrow a diameter wheel as you can run. Larger sidewalls make for a less steady highway ride, but provide a lot more protection off-road. Sure, 15" and 16" wheels are so "old school" these days.