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Better back up lamp install

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Old 03-06-2011, 09:45 PM
  #61  
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So if you tap the reverse lights and use a 3 position switch ( on off on).....just wire these up like you'd wire any set of aux lights? I have never used a 3 way switch. I have a set of Hellas I might try to squeeze in there. My biggest concern is to be able to turn these on and off when i want and have them come on automaticaly in reverse. I dont think i want to mess with diodes and tapping into multiple wires. The simple way is the best way for me
Old 01-26-2012, 03:30 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by W3CSX
It has been said the rear lights on a JK are a little lack luster. I for one would have to agree. I kicked around several ideas on how to add better lights. But knew I had to keep them out of harms way. The last thing I want is to rip them off every time I go wheeling. Here is how I resolved the problem.




Buy integrating the lamps into the bumper. You can see how they’re not as susceptible to those “jumping rocks” that, like to damage everything they can.


Parts:
- KC rear back up lamp kit #517
- Two ¼” x 4” stainless steel carriage bolts.
- Two ¼” stainless steel washers
- Two ¼” stainless steel lock washers
- Two ¼” stainless steel nuts


Bumper trimming:
The first thing you need to worry about is where to notch the bumper. Looking under your Jeep you will note a few obstructions we need to keep clear of. The tail pipe for starters, taper of the rear crossmember (this is what we’ll bolt the lamps to), and the brackets to hold down the rear bumper. I measured 7¼” from the outer edge of the lamps to the build out. This will keep everything safe and out of the way.


Next, use a Phillips head screwdriver and remove the bezel from one of the lamps. We will use this to measure the cut outs. Hold the bezel up to the 7¼” mark. Draw the outline with a pencil. Make sure this is kept square with the top of the bumper. For better visibility while cutting. I used masking tape as a guide. By taping the outside edge of your cuts with it.


To cut the bumper I used an air powered cut off wheel. A dremel with a HD cut off disk can also be used. Remember measure twice and cut once!!! It is best to cut a little too small and sand out the difference. Once you make the first cut, slide the lamp into position for a test fit. Cut / sand as necessary for a snug fit. Keep in mind using a slower speed on your tool is best. The plastic will melt rather than cut if you use a high RPM.



Mounting:
Now that the bumper has been prepped, we are ready to install the lamps. These photos illustrate how the lamps bolt thru the crossmember.



Start by removing the mounting brackets from the bottom of the lens. Set hardware aside. Now remove the small carriage bolt from the brackets. This bolt is too short. We will replace it later with the new 4” carriage bolt.

Time to drill the mounting hole. Mark a vertical line on the crossmember centered between the hole in the bumper. Take the mounting bracket and align the square hole over this line with the brackets bottom flush with the bottom of the crossmember. Mark the location of your hole. Use a 5/16ths bit and drill the hole all the way thru both sides of the crossmember. Now to make the proverbial square peg (carriage bolt) fit into a round hole. Take a small file and square off the hole on the outside of the crossmember. Spray the bare metal around the hole with primer or some kind of Rust-oleum to keep it from rusting out.

Using the new 4” carriage bolt, washers and nut, secure the mounting bracket. Reusing the factory hardware install the lamp assembly. We are installing the lamps upside down from there factory configurations. The lenses and bezels will need to be flipped upside down to shine light in the proper pattern. The factory instructions outline how this is done.


Wiring:
The Manual provides a complete write up on this. I’m not going to waste anyone’s time rehashing all the details. But here are a few JK specific notes.

-There is plenty of room behind the rear tail lamps for the relay. This will keep it dry and keeps the wire pulling to a minimum.
-The white wire in KC’s loom taps the factory back up lights. On my ’07 and ’05 Jeeps this is the white wire w/ a gray stripe.


-The power cable is green. This is easily routed under the Jeep. I followed the trailer wiring harness to the battery. However, my trailer hitch was installed by the dealer not the factory. So take that for what it is worth.
-I added a second control circuit to KC’s design. This allows me to turn them on even when not in reverse gear. (I am going to add more info on that later)

If anyone has any questions please let me know.

AWESOME JOB/
Old 01-26-2012, 07:05 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
Yall sure do go to a lot of trouble when they make a 50 watt halogen bulb that plugs right into the stock reverse light socket.
So a 50 watt halogen won't overload the circuit?
Old 01-30-2012, 05:35 PM
  #64  
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Default JC Whitney 50 watt back up bulbs??

Originally Posted by IMFletch
Thanks RedNeck, I just ordered some of the 50W Halogen replacement bulbs. The the stock back up lights in the JK are a joke.
hello.

i followed the link posted to the jc whitney site but they say the bulbs won't fit my 2012 wrangler jk

does someone have an exact part number that definitely fits my jeep?

matthew



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