First off, GREAT write up. It was a huge help.

So, I attempted to replace my clutch when my throw out bearing went out (typical JK). After many hours of swearing and maneuvering I got everything replaced and put back together. Unfortunately, when we were moments away from our celebratory adult beverage (of age of course) I noticed a clanking/rattling in the bell housing. Here's some info to maybe help any troubleshooting gurus maybe pinpoint the source.

-clutch not pressurized. Still in process of bleeding. Noticed the noise during bleeding. Haynes Manual says to start engine after 25 pumps to pressurize the system.
-during the bleeding process I got a steady stream of brake fluid from the bell housing. Then it stopped and not a drop since.
-fly wheel and clutch torqued to specs.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Don't really know of any tricks to pinpoint an internal issue without taking the tranny off again. Certainly open to try anything that would keep me from having to do that again. Also, anyone have a quicker way to bleed the slave cylinder. Been going at it the old fashioned way... open valve, pump, hold, bleed, close, repeat.

Disclaimer: I'm new to the forum so if I put this in the wrong spot, I apologize.

Thanks in advance!

 

I answered my own question. From searching the part number, it's either a National or a Timken.

While I was trying to take the starter off, I thought the connector on it was one that you push the tab and it slides off. It must not be because I used a flat head and snapped the purple clip off. Does anyone know how to unlock it now?

 

I paid to have mine installed. Just a little above my pay grade.

 

so u guys with the centerforce clutches, how do you like em? are they worth the money over stock parts? did anyone use the centerforce flywheel i dont think i saw any comment about that in the 8 pages.

Jake

Is this kit worth the money?

Centerforce Performance Clutch Product | Centerforce ® Ii - Full Kit (PN# KCFT379176)

 

I just ordered my Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch and TOB. I have 109,xxx miles on original clutch with 3.21 gears and 33's. So definitely need the upgrade, cant wait.

 

My friend and I just did this job this weekend on my 08. Wrapped it all up, went to go for the big test, and the clutch just goes straight to the floor. It won't go into gear when it's running, and if you start it in gear, it lurches forward, even with the pedal pushed. Sounds like the problem BadPunkin had with the slave cylinder. Maybe the same issue?

Another issue: clear fluid leaking from below the bellhousing, between the bellhousing and the bottom bracket (flywheel cover?). I just had the oil changed, but it seems really clear for motor oil, and more like the tcase fluid. Any ideas? Hoping I didn't ruin the rear main seal... Gonna check the fluid again in the morning to see if it's oil or tcase fluid...

 

Clear fluid is brake fluid. It also doesn't have any pressure behind it to release the clutch. You probably bent the arm of the slave past 2 degrees and it messed up the seals inside the slave cylinder. You have to take the hydraulic line off when removing or installing the slave. I tried doing it that way and I heard dripping in the bell housing. Replaced the slave and it's fine. I found it easier (and less of a mess) to install it empty. It just takes a little longer to bleed.

 

I just spent my week installing the centerforce clutch. I also ended up doing my throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch fork. First, let me say thank you, this is a great thread. Now my comments :
If you remove your flywheel, don't forget to reinstall the large metal gasket when you put it back on. I got all the way to bolting the transmission to the engine before realizing it was missing.
While you have it apart you should inspect/consider replacing your rear main seal. Another inexpensive part that becomes expensive to access. Mine was dented somehow and leaking.
That pretty Orange paint on the pressure plate washes right off with brake cleaner. Mine was dusty so I thought I'd hit it real quick and it turned to goo.
I had a difficult time getting my slave cylinder reinstalled so I disconnected the hydraulic line. The procedure to bleed it is incomplete in the Haynes manual. Prior to bleeding it per the manual you have to reinstall the hydraulic line and manually bleed it in your hand by pressing the piston in and opening/clouding the bleeder valve until there are no more air bubbles. Then you can install it and bleed per the procedure. Otherwise you will never get the air out and the clutch will not engage.
The transmission, gear box, and clutch housing together weigh about 200 lbs. I do not recommend lifting them and/or carrying them from your driveway into your garage. You will immediately regret that decision.

 

How are the center force clutches holding up?

 

Anyone have a PDF of the write up with the pics? This is the best write up I've seen and would be even better with pictures!