DIY mesh bikini top
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: The Badlands (near Lafayette, IN)
DIY mesh bikini top
I wanted something to keep my monsters protected from the sun. (2 of the 3 inherited my wife's pale skin)
I had originally planned to make just a shorty bikini that went from the back of the freedom tops to the rear cross, but did the whole thing this time around. I may still make a shorty that I leave in all the time.
I could have saved some effort, since someone linked to the spidertop, but it was a bit salty and I'm always up for a challenge.
All told, I have around $30 invested and it installs like the spidertop. (Sorry, I don't have any videos like theirs!) I didn't put in corner pockets like the Bestop bikini, but I suppose I could have. I tend not to leave stuff out with the doors off. People like to steal what is easy to take.
Materials:
8x10 mesh tarp, 20$
100% polyester UV resistant outdoor thread, ~ $4 (if you don't already have)
Brass grommet kit, ~ $5 (if you don't already have)
8 ball bungee straps, ~ $4
Double-side velcro strip, 1/2" wide, 3-3" lengths, cost unknown, guessed to be only a couple bucks (I had plenty around from other projects)
1. Obtain mesh tarp. The finished size is around 4 x 6, so you won't be able to just go buy a finished one very easily. A local tarp/canvas shop quoted $60+ before we even got into the details. There are various light blocking percentages on the market, from 60% up to about 90%. I bought an 8x10 mesh tarp for $20 from Menards, block percentage unspecified. I'm guessing it's the 60% stuff, from its weave. Mesh tarp is the same material often used by farmers and truckers to cover loads, so you might try a trucker supply shop. TSC had some, but it was WAAAAY more than even the $60 finished custom one.
2. Cut tarp to to 4' x 6'3" size. I started measurements from a corner, so I could keep most of the existing grommets. The one I bought had grommets on the corners and every 2 feet along each edge. You'll need to adjust your cut size accordingly if you aren't re-using existing edges/grommets. Cutting the tarp straight isn't easy. Very rarely is the edge sewn perfectly parallel to the warp/weft, so it will throw you off visually. I made multiple marks to follow. It's not a big deal if it's cut slightly crooked, though, since variations will be inside the folds. If you cut the tarp too wide, the finished size won't be pulled tight by the bungees.
3. Remove the grommets near the cuts you just made. You'll need to sew a border and you'll be folding over where the grommets are located. A straight screwdriver will fit between the grommet halves. Twist it to separate.
4. Fold the edges over, ~1.5 inches per fold. I folded the long edge twice and the front edge three times. (four thicknesses for the front edge) The mesh is made from a very loose polyester and it actually takes a fold nicely. I didn't really need to use pins to hold it while sewing.
5. Using UV resistant outdoor thread and a ball-point needle, sew two passes along inside edge of fold, one pass along outside edge. Since my wife's sewing machine was puny, I couldn't sew through all the layers at the corner where two folds met three folds. I went as far as I could, knowing the metal grommet would take care of the corner anyway. I probably should have adjusted the cut to reduce corner thickness. My finished size was 3'9" x 5'10.5".
6. Using a soldering iron or similar, melt holes for the corner grommets. I installed the grommets while the plastic was still hot. If you let it cool, it gets hard and prevents you from getting a good penetration with the male side of the grommet.
7. Lay tarp across top of Jeep, with your three-fold edge at the windshield. Center the tarp. Mark the position of the windshield center loop on the tarp. Mark the position of the two other loops. Confirm the existing grommets on the factory side edge have clearance for bungee straps on front and back of the center pillar. If not, mark where you want grommets. Like I said, mine had grommets every 2 feet and they were fine. Mark your sewn edge to match the other side.
8. Use the soldering iron again to make holes in the edges where you just marked. Install grommets while plastic still hot. I inserted the male half of the grommets from the "finished" (outer) side, opposite the folds.
9. Loop velcro strip through the center 3 front grommets, attach to the windshield loops.
10. Feed ball bungees through grommets, up from bottom, over roll bar, back to ball. Tighten as needed. The front corners are a real b!tch, since you have to work around the plastic corner trim. I looped the rear corners around the corner bars so they pulled back AND out.
The finished product, installed:
I had originally planned to make just a shorty bikini that went from the back of the freedom tops to the rear cross, but did the whole thing this time around. I may still make a shorty that I leave in all the time.
I could have saved some effort, since someone linked to the spidertop, but it was a bit salty and I'm always up for a challenge.
All told, I have around $30 invested and it installs like the spidertop. (Sorry, I don't have any videos like theirs!) I didn't put in corner pockets like the Bestop bikini, but I suppose I could have. I tend not to leave stuff out with the doors off. People like to steal what is easy to take.
Materials:
8x10 mesh tarp, 20$
100% polyester UV resistant outdoor thread, ~ $4 (if you don't already have)
Brass grommet kit, ~ $5 (if you don't already have)
8 ball bungee straps, ~ $4
Double-side velcro strip, 1/2" wide, 3-3" lengths, cost unknown, guessed to be only a couple bucks (I had plenty around from other projects)
1. Obtain mesh tarp. The finished size is around 4 x 6, so you won't be able to just go buy a finished one very easily. A local tarp/canvas shop quoted $60+ before we even got into the details. There are various light blocking percentages on the market, from 60% up to about 90%. I bought an 8x10 mesh tarp for $20 from Menards, block percentage unspecified. I'm guessing it's the 60% stuff, from its weave. Mesh tarp is the same material often used by farmers and truckers to cover loads, so you might try a trucker supply shop. TSC had some, but it was WAAAAY more than even the $60 finished custom one.
2. Cut tarp to to 4' x 6'3" size. I started measurements from a corner, so I could keep most of the existing grommets. The one I bought had grommets on the corners and every 2 feet along each edge. You'll need to adjust your cut size accordingly if you aren't re-using existing edges/grommets. Cutting the tarp straight isn't easy. Very rarely is the edge sewn perfectly parallel to the warp/weft, so it will throw you off visually. I made multiple marks to follow. It's not a big deal if it's cut slightly crooked, though, since variations will be inside the folds. If you cut the tarp too wide, the finished size won't be pulled tight by the bungees.
3. Remove the grommets near the cuts you just made. You'll need to sew a border and you'll be folding over where the grommets are located. A straight screwdriver will fit between the grommet halves. Twist it to separate.
4. Fold the edges over, ~1.5 inches per fold. I folded the long edge twice and the front edge three times. (four thicknesses for the front edge) The mesh is made from a very loose polyester and it actually takes a fold nicely. I didn't really need to use pins to hold it while sewing.
5. Using UV resistant outdoor thread and a ball-point needle, sew two passes along inside edge of fold, one pass along outside edge. Since my wife's sewing machine was puny, I couldn't sew through all the layers at the corner where two folds met three folds. I went as far as I could, knowing the metal grommet would take care of the corner anyway. I probably should have adjusted the cut to reduce corner thickness. My finished size was 3'9" x 5'10.5".
6. Using a soldering iron or similar, melt holes for the corner grommets. I installed the grommets while the plastic was still hot. If you let it cool, it gets hard and prevents you from getting a good penetration with the male side of the grommet.
7. Lay tarp across top of Jeep, with your three-fold edge at the windshield. Center the tarp. Mark the position of the windshield center loop on the tarp. Mark the position of the two other loops. Confirm the existing grommets on the factory side edge have clearance for bungee straps on front and back of the center pillar. If not, mark where you want grommets. Like I said, mine had grommets every 2 feet and they were fine. Mark your sewn edge to match the other side.
8. Use the soldering iron again to make holes in the edges where you just marked. Install grommets while plastic still hot. I inserted the male half of the grommets from the "finished" (outer) side, opposite the folds.
9. Loop velcro strip through the center 3 front grommets, attach to the windshield loops.
10. Feed ball bungees through grommets, up from bottom, over roll bar, back to ball. Tighten as needed. The front corners are a real b!tch, since you have to work around the plastic corner trim. I looped the rear corners around the corner bars so they pulled back AND out.
The finished product, installed:
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: The Badlands (near Lafayette, IN)
Almost no flapping at speed, much better than a traditional vinyl top.
The mesh allows air to flow through and minimizes flapping, which is why they use it for covering trailers.
I don't have any delusions that it will help with rain, but the cloth seats and floor carpet of the JK aren't as rainworthy as the vinyl seats and bare floor of my CJ, anyway.
The mesh allows air to flow through and minimizes flapping, which is why they use it for covering trailers.
I don't have any delusions that it will help with rain, but the cloth seats and floor carpet of the JK aren't as rainworthy as the vinyl seats and bare floor of my CJ, anyway.
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 272
Likes: 1
From: Delaware
I know winter is coming on and all but... Just found this andwanted to say what a great project this will make for me. Love the idea of the mesh letting the air at speed not 'catch" the thing and make it flap around!
