I'd have to look at my CC receipt....it was a full day. At $90/hr, you can do the math. Worth it? For me, yes. I had buyer's remorse the first week of owning my JK.

Its not as simple as making them and shipping them. The RF stock mount is elevated due to a tack-welded hump in the body. They had to knock that out to get the seat down the two inches they were able to get. I didn't ask them to move the new mount holes in the bracket any further back than stock; in hindsight, I should have. I could use an inch or two more legroom to be honest. We were very concerned about NOT trying to alter things too much over stock. At the height the made the brackets, they didn't go lower to clear the seatbelt mechanism. There's nothing blocking fore/aft travel.

My Jeep is there now, getting the AEV suspension and 35's on. Call them tomorrow and ask if they'd make another set; might cost less now that they have done it and know what works and what won't. I don't mind if they yank my seat out to check specs...they can drill some new mounting holes for me.

Mach V Motorsports, LLC
45690 Elmwood Court, Suite 170
Sterling, VA 20166
(571) 434-8333 voice
(571) 434-8334 fax

 

I have a 07 JKUR And am 6'3"...head is definitely into the roll bar with the seat all the way down and all the way back. I would really be interested in these brackets. Or maybe a blue print of them so I could easily have them made. Great idea!

 

Same head bumping thing here. 6'4" 260lbs.

 

there's nothing unique about them and could easily be made. just flat bar stock, bent into the proper shape and sprayed with a hammer coat black.

 

It was quite a while since 2010, and there's a different option now: Corbeau RRS seat. It goes on their standard JK adapter and has a 2 inches lower base height than their normal stock-replacement seat. I decided not to try it because its seatback length is too short: only 36.5", while I need at least 39. Still, perhaps something to try if you have $500 burining a hole in your pocket.

 

I finally completed the mod, using the stock rails (back when I bought a set, I did not know that Misch Big Boy existed).



Cut and bend detail. The forward part of the inboard rail took a bit of effort, and I used my Hi-Lift jack to bend it. The rest was bent with a C-clamp and a block of wood.



The rear side had to be cut completely. After a fit and tinkering with the bending a bit, a wire was used to secure parts together rigidly, so that the welder could work on the rails without fiddling and without
my presence in the welding shop.



Ourboard rails comparison, stock take-off and the modded rail.

Note that the edges of the stamping must be repaired where I cut them away. A flat metal would not have the strength. The welder attached pieces across the gaps. Material of the rail is a low-carbon steel, which was easy to match with a stock.



Front side, test.



Rear side, test.

The fit was perfect from the first try and I didn't have to enlarge any holes. I made sure that the seat interface remained completey square, although I lowered the rear much further than the front. So, the seat slides back and worth without binding and both rails lock simultaneously. This is critical in JK, because your seatbelt is attached to the seat. If the seat does not seat symmetrically, one tooth will take all the load in the crash and may shear early, in which case your seatbelt ceases to hold you.

 

I'm 6' tall and like the barber shop chair as high up as it will go. I like to sit high. Besides, I've got a lock box under the seat so I doubt it would even go to it's lowest factory setting.

What we need is a fix for the ridiculous "barber shop" chair to stop from creeping down all the time.

 

these are what you need.

 

I stopped mine from creeping down. I set it where I wanted it and then removed the handle. No more creeping.