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EGR Valve Replacement (DTC P0406)

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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #31  
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
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My engine came on for an egr code, picked up a new egr valve at autozone for 76 bucks
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 02:03 PM
  #32  
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
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Replaced the egr valve today, check engine light went off and it feels like it has a lil bit more get up and go now too
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #33  
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Xtreme do u have an auto or standard. How hard did you find it to replace.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #34  
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From: Saint Joseph, MO
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Originally Posted by dave810
Xtreme do u have an auto or standard. How hard did you find it to replace.
I have a manual tranny, it took me about an hour and a half, the hardest part was getting the far back 10mm bolt out. Overall pretty painless.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 06:42 PM
  #35  
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From: Northwestern Ontario
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good news from the dealership today (can you believe it), they fixed the problem under warranty, apparently the "ambient temp sensor" was faulty and tripped the EGR code (at least I hope thats all it was and not something later down the road)

now they wanna replace my worn brake lines due to the liner recall, hafta take it in again next week
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #36  
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From: Saint John
Default EGR Valve Auto Tranny

I have a 2007 Sahara Unlimited with an auto tranny and recently changed the EGR Valve based on this tutorial. To keep thing simple: here is what I did (with pointers along the way).

1) Jack up Jeep and remove the front passenger side wheel
2) Remove plastic rivits carefully, but firmly and you should be able to remove them without breaking them
3) Unplug marker light with a 1/4 twist
4) Remove 5 bolts (should all be visible) holding the fender on.
5) Lift up on frontmost part on fender and remove clip (little or no access from the back.)
6) Work your way back sliding the fender off of the clips. (The clips will remain on the body and slots in the fender itself allow the clips to slide out.
7) Remove the 8mm bolts on the EGR Valve facing you.
8) Remove the 10mm "easy" bolt closest to you.
9) Remove the 10mm "hidden" bolt with a 10mm stubby wrench. There is about 20-30[SUP]0[/SUP] of space where you can move your wrench at the bottom back.

*Here is where I got into trouble because I stripped the bolt in the back. I remedied the situation (after 5 about hours of trying) by soaking the valve in WD40 and tapping it clockwise, then counter-clockwise until it loosened enough to take the bolt out.

Be careful which wratcheted wrench you buy, because the one I bought did not fit. The outside was too big to fit the bolt properly. You CAN NOT fit a socket, vice grips, or any other type of plyer onto the bolt if you strip it. 10mm stubby wrench was my only saving grace. Alternatively you could cut off a 10mm 6 point wrench and you would be less likey to strip the bolt.

Good luck!
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 03:29 PM
  #37  
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From: Euless, TX
Default Your EGR valve may be covered under the Federal Extended Emissions Warranty

I called the Chrysler Customer Care phone number (do a Google search) and she asked my the last 8 digits of my VIN. Based on those digits, she said my 2008 JK IS covered for the EGR valve within the 8 years, 80k miles "Extended Federal Emissions Warranty".

She said the faulty EGR will be replaced under warranty if my vehicle fails an "E-Test" (Emissions Test). Bring proof of your vehicle failing the test to the dealership. You may also need to have the dealership manager hear the customer rep's confirmation on the phone. The dealership should then replace it under warranty.

It's a $450 friggin' job! I can't believe it.

And you know what the kicker is?!?!?!?!?!? Our EGR's are failing because of excessive oil consumption - the engines are burning oil which is causing the EGR's to fail/stick.

Good Luck.

I'll have my engine replaced soon after I 'fail' the oil consumption test (began today). If the rebuilt engine doesn't have a new EGR, I will get it replaced under warranty.

If your specific vehicle is covered, and you paid the dealership to replace it, I believe you can submit for reimbursement for having paid for warranty work out-of-pocket.
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #38  
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From: New Lenox , IL
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I keep getting the code it comes and goes. I have the EGR valve. Just needa get intake gaskets. I'm doing it from the top and my intake gaskets are leaking anyways. I also got a p0562 code which I got when I killed my battery last time at the badlands lol. And both code say stuff aboot ground and voltage. Well I have my same stock battery and alternator which are very muddy have had sand mud water all on em so im also going to be replacing though's.

Last edited by sliverGstoneJK; Nov 17, 2011 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #39  
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From: New Lenox , IL
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My buddy and I did it last night took off the upper intake. Pulled the tranny dipstick out. Took a pry bar put it in the tranny tube bent it to the side. Very carefully and slowly. Just enough room too get a socket on there. He was using the ratchet from the passenger side I was on top of the block and held the top of the ratchet in place. We also used a ratcheting wrench.

I'm pretty sure u can do it with out taking the upper intake off. But it's a nice to clean it out.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #40  
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From: Central Illinois
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Dagnabbit - I threw code P0404 tonight on the drive home and based on what you guys are saying, this will be a royal PITA to get changed. Anyone else try to go at this by taking out the battery tray? Does that make this elusive bolt easier to access?

I've got a case of beer for anyone in the Central IL area willing to help me wrench on this one.

Thanks.
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