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JK Write-Ups Bulletin board forum regarding useful installation write-ups, budget fixes and homemade solutions for the Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X).

EGR Valve Replacement (DTC P0406)

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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #51  
hd80flh's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Mercerville, NJ
Default Thanks

This is a great tutorial. I couldn't imagine tackling this from the top. I couldn't even get my hand in far enough to touch the connector.

This process kills two birds with one stone. My daughter was parking the Jeep where she works and as she was pulling into the slot the guy next to her threw his door open. I have to replace the inner and outer skirt. All in all minor damage considering his door crumpled like an accordion.

Thanks again for posting this.
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Old Aug 5, 2012 | 06:47 AM
  #52  
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From: Spring Lake, NC
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I replaced my EGR valve today and thought I should share my experience. I have an automatic transmission and I was alone so I hooked up several rubber straps to the dipstick tube which pulled it towards the driver side of the vehicle. This gave me enough clearance to get the stubby 10m wrench to the elusive hidden bolt. It was still not a fun job, but it is doable even if you have an automatic and your alone.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 07:21 AM
  #53  
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From: Roswell, ga
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I have an Auto as well and replaced mine today. I removed only the inner fender liner. I sued needle nose pliers on the plastic christmas tree clips so I wouldn't break them, but the problem now is replacing the plastic rivets that connect the fender to the liner. I used my drill with socket adapter on the 8mm bolts. Then used a 10mm Gearwrench which fit perfectly. I moved the O2 sensor clip out of the way as well. Do not remove the 10mm bolts from the new Valve. They keep the metal gasket in place. Line up the lower 10mm bolt first then twist the Valve into place. The top bolt will have to threaded in a few turns for the gearwrench to fit on the bolt, just do it slowly with the open end. The I had no problems and from start to finish about 1.25 hrs. Thanks for the tutorial, I saved a ton of time and money from the Stealership.
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Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #54  
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From: West Newton, PA
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My dealer told me that this was a 6.5 hour job at $85 an hour. I told him not to do it and that I'll tackle this one myself. Great write up and tips, it's going to be a pain (auto) but it will be worth it. I got new shocks coming this week so I might as well do this while I'm doing that.
Ordered EGR Valve and gasket from Auto Zone for less than $85 shipped to my house (free shipping over $75 order).

Last edited by BJeepJK; Sep 16, 2012 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #55  
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From: Colorado
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Talk about ironic, I am stuck for the moment. The rear 10mm came out ok, bit of work. But the front one is stripping. Unless a better idea comes up before the wife and her car gets home, I guess a trip to Sears then ACE are in order. Get a bolt removal tool at Sears, and a replacement bolt at ACE.

Grade 8 bolt my rear! Metal feels dam soft.
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 11:42 AM
  #56  
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Sacramento, Ca
Default Any Luck Not Needing Replacement?

I've had P0404 for about 10k miles now. Occasionally the CEL will go away and I'll notice immediate acceleration improvement. I even notice the estimated mileage reader suddenly jump about 15 more available miles, although I'm not gonna trust that much.

I know its a valve and that it gets stuck which is why my jeep feels like its going through mud when it throws the code, but isn't there another method that can be used to clean the valve without replacing it? Similar to how you can use seafoam to clean out the headers on a Honda?

Crazy how much of a difference in driving experience this little valve can make! A recent trip to Yosemite with the CEL code on was a pain. Overheated going up basic hills cause the engine was getting way overstressed without sufficient power.
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 02:23 PM
  #57  
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Canada
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Originally Posted by Kozmotoo

And you know what the kicker is?!?!?!?!?!? Our EGR's are failing because of excessive oil consumption - the engines are burning oil which is causing the EGR's to fail/stick.

Good Luck.

I'll have my engine replaced soon after I 'fail' the oil consumption test (began today). If the rebuilt engine doesn't have a new EGR, I will get it replaced under warranty.
Hey, do you mind telling me what is causing your high oil consumption? I'm going through an oil consumption test right now, and now my valve has also failed.

Thank you.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 12:33 PM
  #58  
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Nj
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45000 mi po404.... Just replaced the egr... Thank god I found this write up!...only bad part besides the 10mm bolts being Hercules tight for such a cramp space, I had to loosen the tranny tube and push it outta the way to just make it to the back bolt!!!PITA!!...this write-up def made it easier than what's suggested in the book... Thank you gentlemen..
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:35 AM
  #59  
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From: Sacramento, Ca
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Just got the back bolt out. Auto tranny. Would have taken less than the five hours it took had I just bought the 3/8 slotted gear wrench adapter and the 10mm socket it works with and used a pry bar to pull the dipstick to the drivers side from the top from the beginning. After that, bolt came off fine.

Now I'm fighting with the electrical clip. How the Hell do you disconnect these things?
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #60  
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Great Lakes
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Originally Posted by NewbieJK007
Hey, do you mind telling me what is causing your high oil consumption? I'm going through an oil consumption test right now, and now my valve has also failed.

Thank you.
My buddy had his motor replaced under warranty after the oil consumption test and the dealer would not replace the EGR valve on good will. His CEL light was on before and is still on. They want some crazy price to replace it as well. Let me know how you make out.
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