I just did mine about two weeks ago and I dont think it was really that hard. I removed the inner fender and the valve was right there. you could easily see it from the side.

for the two 8mm bolts i used a 1/4 ratchet with a 8" extension and that was a sinch.

for the two 10mm bolts i used the same 1/4 drive ratchet but the only thing that made it easy was to put the handle INWARDS to the center of the vehicle. otherwise the handle will hit the firewall fabric stuff and you will be sitting there ratcheting for half an hour.

took me hour quarter from start to finish, fender removal to fender reinstall.

and dont forget to get a new gasket for the valve as well. there are two seperate ones and only one comes with it (the one for the 10mm side)

good luck!

 

For those of us that don't live in super restrictive inspection states, isn't there a bypass/delete kit? They make them for so many other vehicles that suffer the same problem. Most kits are actually cheaper than the having the unit replaced.

 

This is a good question....couldnt some tuners disable it? I know I have had some SCT tunes disable it on Mustangs past.


Also Im getting code P0405 so Im leaning to EGR as well............

 

Had mine replaced in January 2011 and just got code P0404. Called the dealership and they told me to bring it in and they would cover it under warranty even though my jeep is an 08 with 66,000 miles. Hopefully they are telling me the truth.

 

Ok. I have had my check engin light on for a while. just picked up an EGR valve. by luck it seems. my mechanic. and closer dealership said they were backlogged at least 100 valves for a week or better. found a dealership a little farther away that had 10 in stock. 119.00$. My question is about the plastic rivits and fasteners on the fender. it looks like there is 2 or 3 different types. does anyone have part numbers for them. I got 2 different types one is the 20887 part # i just ordered that i think will do the job. Just want to dbl. check to make sure.

 

So, I picked up the part from the dealership for ~$140. Spent 4 hours on Sunday trying to get the 1 !@#$!@ bolt loose and left a fair amount of skin and blood on the firewall (I have an automatic). Called the dealership Tuesday morning and asked what labor would be to replace- he looks it up in the book and calls me back and tells me it's about $135.00 according to Chrysler. I thought I was saving myself 500 bucks by doing this, but turns out it was only $135.

If you have an automatic transmission, regular size hands and lack the torque strength of the hulk, you may want to get a quote from the dealer to do this.

Good luck!

 

OMG!!!! I'm am so glad there are people like you that I'm have helped out so many people!!!

This was a pain in the @ss!!!

listen to everything right down to the WD40!!

Thanks man! I couldn't even find the dam EGR till I found this post!

I left the fender on and only took off the liner.

 

Ok new EGR valve is in. Not too bad. That 10 mm bolt in back came out ok. Had a 3/8 stubby ratchet. And a ratcheting box wrench. My oops was I cracked the red plastic locking clip on the wiring plug. Still clips together though. took more time getting to the valve than doing the job. Reset and now no check engine light. Yay me.

 

I didn't remove the fender. It had the recall done so some of it was cut away already, so I drilled a small hole in the corner and and used a big bungee cord hooked into the hole and around the fender onto the mirror mount,to bend it back and hold it. I used a ratcheting box on the 10mm bolts, which as one other person stated is a must. Wasn't too bad to remove, however I thought putting the new one in was a real royal pain because I had couldn't fit the ratchet box on due to the Tranny tube until the bolt was in a bit. Some tweaking of the tube from above did help a some..


I took apart the old sensor/valve and did a test, everything appeared to work with voltage was applied to the solenoid inputs, and I was receiving linear voltage changes from the potentiometer which is basically the top black piece. So fingers crossed hoping it was indeed this part.. Thank you for the writeup though, made the pre planning way easier...

 

was this hard to do? did you need new pins to reattach it, and what ones need to be removed? thanks in advance