Thank you for this great write up

I'm (with the help of a couple of others) going to attempt to re-gear my JK today. I'm going from 3.21s to 5.13s. I have a new carrier for the front, and I also picked up a Aussie locker (might as well since I'm in there).

I don't think I'd even had considered going DIY on this if it wasn't for your write-up

 

Installed my rear ARB airlocker this past Sunday. This post was a great help even though I was only doing the carrier. Thank you!

 

I suggested the link to the Dana bulletin 5717 (http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5717.PDF). I think the Jeep gears are Face Hobbing (the doc is for either face hobbing or face milling gears).

It seems that the information on that hobbing sheet is wrong. I had a heck of a time working on my gears that had the Drive "Top Toe Contact" and Coast "Top Heel Contact" condition. The bulletin calls for a thicker pinion shim. That seems to be incorrect. After hours of trying various pinion thicknesses, my data seems to indicate that with my gears thicker pinion shim made the condition worse.

On a couple of other sites including drivetrain.com, http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...tructions.html I found this tip:
Thicker pinion position

• Drive pattern moves deeper on the tooth (flank contact) and slightly toward the toe.
• Coast pattern moves deeper on the tooth and toward the heel.

This seems to support what I've found, that the correct action is thinner pinion shim.

Any experts care to chime in? When the condition is Drive side pattern towards the toe and the coast side pattern towards the heel, is the action required a thinner pinion shim?
Thanks!

P.S. - I am thinking we may need to pull that link depending on what the experts say!

 

FYI

 

Finished changing out my rear gears. I ended up not needing the flange tool even though i made one. I used my air impact and it had no problem crushing the sleeve without going too far. I just kept checking frequently and stopped when i got to 30 inch pounds of drag. Broke in my gears tonight and so far it is nice and quiet and my locker engages without flashing.

 

Thought I followed this to the letter. But I fragged my front end driving out of my driveway. Starting a new thread to see what went wrong

 

I have done quite a lot of mechanic work, but this write up is pointing me to go professional. anyone in north jersey had their gears done?

 

I needed a way to safely keep my bearings in tact so I did not need to buy $200 set-up bearings for my re gear.
Here is my solution.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Up5vZzuq8CM

 

I need you in my toolbox..

 

Careful guys...that is simply a bearing splitter pulling the bearings off which does NOT guarantee safe reuseable removal of the bearings...while pulling, the load is being placed on the outer race of the bearing...which could make them go POP, or may warp them...to safely remove bearings for reuse, the load to pull them off needs to be placed on the inner race which is pressed onto the shaft. I used a bearing removal tool to remove my bearings...however, I also replaced my bearings with new ones just in case I damaged them.