Inspiring threads:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/building-storage-box-what-would-you-want-yours-have-give-input-48770/

READ THIS ONE FIRST:
forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/136736-another-perspective-rear-storage.html

LOOKING FOR SUGGESTIONS/ADVICE/IDEAS/OPINIONS AT THIS POINT

I'm looking to get started pretty quickly... my design will likely closely follow the one from the ih8mud forum. Check that thread out first.

THESE ARE NOT MY PICS, BUT PICS FROM THE ABOVE IH8MUD THREAD... JUST TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA:


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Basic idea: Drawer setup that will fill the entire rear floor of the jeep, behind the rear seats. Can't be too tall, as I still want to be able to throw stuff back there on top of it.

Issue that makes the JK more difficult than the LC from IH8MUD: The wheel wells are different and more instrusive on the JK compared to the LC. IE - it's impossible to cover the wheelwells entirely, without making the box very tall (like the Tuffy), which I don't want to do.

The floor in the back isn't really level or flat. My current plan is to remove the rear floor carpet, and use rubber blocks to essentially "float" the box above the floor. I will remove the front-most cargo hooks, and use those bolt holes to secure the box to the floor.

Here's a rough drawing of my plans.



At first I was planning on custom-cutting the top, so that it would hug the sides/seats/tailgate and make it very "floor-like". I've since decided to make it entirely rectangular for the time being.

I want the unit to be around 8" tall, with a minimum of 6" inner drawer height. I don't want it to be taller than the front-most part of the sides of the back of the jeep... just in front of the wheel wells. I need to do some more precise measurements to avoid this. It might not work.

My plan is to make the unit entirely of 1/2" plywood. 1/2" should be sufficient for the top, only because the 2-drawer (as opposed to 1-drawer) setup will have a middle brace.

I'll be using 200lb (per pair) slides from leevalley.

Not sure on latches yet.

Down the road, I will buy hardboard or thin plywood to custom-fit to the top ... then Line-X. This will provide the "floor" like fit I want. The thin wood will work well, because it wont' need to support any weight and will be easy to custom-fit using a coping saw/etc.

I've also thought about making a custom fiberglass "floor" for the top it instead... I haven't ruled this out yet.

Current issues: The tailgate isn't a straight edge (the latch part of the tailgate sticks into the box area). What's the best way to avoid the gap between the box + tailgate?

Hit me with anything you got! I've thought myself in circles so many times about the design of this thing, any outside opinions would be appreciated.

I realize I'll be covering the cubby. This bugs me... a lot... but as far as I can tell there's no way to make a floor-sized box WITH drawers that won't cover the cubby. My plan is to put all cubby contents (incl. jack etc) into a drawer, then (someday) put a compressor and/or tank in the cubby, with QR hose connects.

Also, I'll be relocating the subwoofer on top of the box.

DRAWER CONTENTS (I think):
-Tow straps
-Hand-winch
-Duct tape, zip ties, bungies
-Towel
-Sheets and/or other utility blankets in case of severe mud/water (it's still a DD )
-Bottles of water, small food (granola bars etc).
-Insurance/Registration documents (would love to be able to leave the glovebox/console empty, esp. with doors/roof off).