Stock AirBox, Water Spray Shield Redux
Hi all,
Although I did not make it down to GWNF to try it, the "S" sheild idea over the intake horn is a FAIL.
From Driving it, it was just too restrictive and you could feel it after a while starving for air.

Going back to the drawing board, I recalled a thread here from someone who built their own CAI out of PCV and chimmey roof flashing. So I thought, what if by using the same flashing, a spray sheild could be fabricated over teh stock Airbox.
Well, using a 4 inch and 3 inch from Home Depot, plus pipe insulation, it acts as if it is made for it!



It is very straight forward just use the 4 inch opening one to form over the stock airbox. Then attach the 3inch opening one (sectioned) to attach to it and go across the rest of the battery area.
Then use two courses of the pipe insulation foam (one ontop of the other) to make a seal between the top of the flashing and hood.
30 minutes of work and 9 bucks max.
Heading to GWNF now to try it out on tommorows ride!
Although I did not make it down to GWNF to try it, the "S" sheild idea over the intake horn is a FAIL.
From Driving it, it was just too restrictive and you could feel it after a while starving for air.

Going back to the drawing board, I recalled a thread here from someone who built their own CAI out of PCV and chimmey roof flashing. So I thought, what if by using the same flashing, a spray sheild could be fabricated over teh stock Airbox.
Well, using a 4 inch and 3 inch from Home Depot, plus pipe insulation, it acts as if it is made for it!



It is very straight forward just use the 4 inch opening one to form over the stock airbox. Then attach the 3inch opening one (sectioned) to attach to it and go across the rest of the battery area.
Then use two courses of the pipe insulation foam (one ontop of the other) to make a seal between the top of the flashing and hood.
30 minutes of work and 9 bucks max.
Heading to GWNF now to try it out on tommorows ride!
Makes much more sense now.
I'd think it's one of those things you know just what to do once you get the material and start fiddling around under the hood.
I look forward to hearing how this works for you.
It could also benefit by keeping the intake area cooler, if I'm seeing this correctly.
Last edited by cufojeep; Nov 7, 2008 at 11:50 AM.
Makes much more sense now.
I'd think it's one of those things you know just what to do once you get the material and start fiddling around under the hood.
I look forward to hearing how this works for you.
It could also benefit by keeping the intake area cooler, if I'm seeing this correctly.
I'd think it's one of those things you know just what to do once you get the material and start fiddling around under the hood.
I look forward to hearing how this works for you.
It could also benefit by keeping the intake area cooler, if I'm seeing this correctly.
I noted some improvement in Torque and acceleration. Note to the extent I noted when I put the Gibson Axle Back Exhaust but, my calibrated ass-o-meter feels some improvement.
So, we will see
SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Worked better than I could have imagined. Just got home from GWNF where we were wheelng with 10 other JK's through massive mud and fording through Dry River (up to the headlight, btw)!!!
Not a frickin drop past on into the airbox area.
Photos posted tommorow gang. Absolutley unbelievable
Worked better than I could have imagined. Just got home from GWNF where we were wheelng with 10 other JK's through massive mud and fording through Dry River (up to the headlight, btw)!!!
Not a frickin drop past on into the airbox area.
Photos posted tommorow gang. Absolutley unbelievable
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Ok,
Just to bring everyone up to speed, last weekend I came dang close to hydrolocking or damaging the motor from water. It sucked in water bigtime after blasting through a mud hole at Rausch Creek.
Anyway, going through everything I discovered the damaging water does not enter through the bottom but, the TOP of the hood. Meaning, it sprays up from the bottom and across twoards the outside of the hood and right into the airbox.

Note spray up and outwards

Saturating everything and loading the airbox
Now, as above I tried to build an "S" sheild over the factory air horn. However, this was a FAIL. It was just too restrictive.
Anyway, seeing a post here about someone who built a CAI set up from flashing and pipe I got thinking and fabricated a sealing area from the rad support to the firewall in the airbox-electrical section.
This seals the area from spray

Now for todays, trial by fire myself and about 10 other JK's were wheeling in GW National Forest in VA. IT was a MUD-PIT today.
Plus we forded the "Dry River Basin" on the way out and at one point was (as those who were with us can attest) up to the headlights.
The set-up worked perfectly and NO, NADA, Zilch water entered the Ait Intake area with this simple set up.

This is the after, notice the line in the hood and lack of mud gunk in the Air Box and Electrical Area.

everything was contained outside of the area.
All the Mud, Crud and Water stayed outside of the area either across the hood or against the sheild itself

For most of the day, it was like this although this was pretty shallow compared to when we were first crossing

At the end of the ride, everyone was checking it out and I am sure those who were there can also attest to the fact it will stop the spray from entering the Airbox. I still dont think I would use this solution to replace a Real Snorkel like R/R or AEV for serious fording but, I dont fear Hydrolocking from puddle blasting anymore.
Do you guys think this would be of interest if it was put into some sort of commercial kit? I cobbed this in about 20-30 minutes but, it could be made alot "cleaner" and into a simple one piece snap-over type cover for the stock airbox.
Just to bring everyone up to speed, last weekend I came dang close to hydrolocking or damaging the motor from water. It sucked in water bigtime after blasting through a mud hole at Rausch Creek.
Anyway, going through everything I discovered the damaging water does not enter through the bottom but, the TOP of the hood. Meaning, it sprays up from the bottom and across twoards the outside of the hood and right into the airbox.

Note spray up and outwards

Saturating everything and loading the airbox
Now, as above I tried to build an "S" sheild over the factory air horn. However, this was a FAIL. It was just too restrictive.
Anyway, seeing a post here about someone who built a CAI set up from flashing and pipe I got thinking and fabricated a sealing area from the rad support to the firewall in the airbox-electrical section.
This seals the area from spray

Now for todays, trial by fire myself and about 10 other JK's were wheeling in GW National Forest in VA. IT was a MUD-PIT today.
Plus we forded the "Dry River Basin" on the way out and at one point was (as those who were with us can attest) up to the headlights.
The set-up worked perfectly and NO, NADA, Zilch water entered the Ait Intake area with this simple set up.

This is the after, notice the line in the hood and lack of mud gunk in the Air Box and Electrical Area.

everything was contained outside of the area.
All the Mud, Crud and Water stayed outside of the area either across the hood or against the sheild itself

For most of the day, it was like this although this was pretty shallow compared to when we were first crossing

At the end of the ride, everyone was checking it out and I am sure those who were there can also attest to the fact it will stop the spray from entering the Airbox. I still dont think I would use this solution to replace a Real Snorkel like R/R or AEV for serious fording but, I dont fear Hydrolocking from puddle blasting anymore.
Do you guys think this would be of interest if it was put into some sort of commercial kit? I cobbed this in about 20-30 minutes but, it could be made alot "cleaner" and into a simple one piece snap-over type cover for the stock airbox.
Last edited by rnjstel; Nov 8, 2008 at 08:25 PM.
Nice work. I can see how this set-up would get you a CAI effect.
Seems from your findings then that the fan is the real culprit (that's why the water is spraying around and dripping down from the hood). Have you considered a fan disconnect switch? I've been giving that some thought myself.
Seems from your findings then that the fan is the real culprit (that's why the water is spraying around and dripping down from the hood). Have you considered a fan disconnect switch? I've been giving that some thought myself.





Congrats on the work