Stock Infinity Amplifier Amp Install
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,750
Likes: 1
From: WV relocated 2 Dyess AFB, TX
More on the amplifier. I did some digging and found out the exact rated power of this amp.
The black connector is the wires going to the speakers. Each speaker is powered seperately. The rear speakers and subwoofer are not powered by the same circuit. Its is seperate. The subwoofer gets its own 50 watts per channel. Totaling 100 watts RMS for the subwoofer! More on this soon.
THis is the heart of the amp. The amplifying section. It has two TDA8594SD power amps. These amps are rated at 50 watts RMS x 4 each. That totals 8 channels. Two to the front tweeter and speaker, two to the rear and two to the subwoofer. I am not sure what is done with the other 2 channels but this is what is coming out of the black harness pictured above.
The TDA8594SD is a real power house. It also has logic to allow it to stop clipping, distorsion, and control the power output! Read here for more then you will ever want to know about the physical characteristics. http://www.tw.nxp.com/#/pip/pip=[pip...,ps=0]|[0]
A little about the amplifier section. Look at how programmable this amplifier is.
2.2 I2C-bus mode
DC load detection: open-circuit, short-circuit and load present
AC load (tweeter) detection
During start-up, can detect which load is connected so the appropriate gain can be
selected without audio pop
Independently selectable soft mute of front channels (channel 1 and channel 3) and
rear channels (channel 2 and channel 4)
Programmable gain (26 dB and 16 dB) of front channels (channel 1 and channel 3)
and rear channels (channel 2 and channel 4)
TDA8594
I2C-bus controlled 4 ´ 50 W power amplifier
Fully programmable diagnostic levels can be set:
Programmable clip detection: 2 %, 5 % or 10 %
Programmable thermal pre-warning
Selectable information on the DIAG and STB pins:
The STB pin can be programmed/multiplexed with second clip detection
Clip information of each channel can be directed separately to the DIAG pin or the STB pin
Independent enabling of thermal, clip or load fault detection (short across or to VP
or to ground) on DIAG pin
Circuit board dissasembled more.
The logic of this board is run by the BUS of the Jeep. If an aftermarket company wanted to get the BUS controller for this and do some tweaking you could do a lot with this fancy little amp.
There is a vent that is pointed right at the amplifier heatsink. Jeep incorperated a vent just to cool the amp. This is simply good planning and great engineering. This amp is capable of pusing some high end speakers. I am really impressed after doing some more research.
TO SUM IT ALL UP.
Run this amp with some high end speakers. The amps are 2 OHM capable! This means they can stay linear and have great sound even with a high load! I am very impressed and I recommend replacing all the stock speakers with something high end that will handle at least 50 watts RMS EACH!
If you read the above link to the chips parametrics it can output 70 watts RMS typical each channel. THat is 70 watts RMS X 6 (six pairs off the black connector going to the speakers). That equals 420 watts RMS at 2 ohms.
To keep the stereo cool and with low distorsion it probably runs about 50 watts x 6 channels. That is at least 300 watts RMS linear!
UPGRADES
Run an amp and better sub in the stock enclosure for more bump (i did this and will have a write up on the JL Audio upgrade). Replace all the speakers with high end speakers and call it good. The infinity system is not as bad as you think.
The black connector is the wires going to the speakers. Each speaker is powered seperately. The rear speakers and subwoofer are not powered by the same circuit. Its is seperate. The subwoofer gets its own 50 watts per channel. Totaling 100 watts RMS for the subwoofer! More on this soon.
THis is the heart of the amp. The amplifying section. It has two TDA8594SD power amps. These amps are rated at 50 watts RMS x 4 each. That totals 8 channels. Two to the front tweeter and speaker, two to the rear and two to the subwoofer. I am not sure what is done with the other 2 channels but this is what is coming out of the black harness pictured above.
The TDA8594SD is a real power house. It also has logic to allow it to stop clipping, distorsion, and control the power output! Read here for more then you will ever want to know about the physical characteristics. http://www.tw.nxp.com/#/pip/pip=[pip...,ps=0]|[0]
A little about the amplifier section. Look at how programmable this amplifier is.
2.2 I2C-bus mode
DC load detection: open-circuit, short-circuit and load present
AC load (tweeter) detection
During start-up, can detect which load is connected so the appropriate gain can be
selected without audio pop
Independently selectable soft mute of front channels (channel 1 and channel 3) and
rear channels (channel 2 and channel 4)
Programmable gain (26 dB and 16 dB) of front channels (channel 1 and channel 3)
and rear channels (channel 2 and channel 4)
TDA8594
I2C-bus controlled 4 ´ 50 W power amplifier
Fully programmable diagnostic levels can be set:
Programmable clip detection: 2 %, 5 % or 10 %
Programmable thermal pre-warning
Selectable information on the DIAG and STB pins:
The STB pin can be programmed/multiplexed with second clip detection
Clip information of each channel can be directed separately to the DIAG pin or the STB pin
Independent enabling of thermal, clip or load fault detection (short across or to VP
or to ground) on DIAG pin
Circuit board dissasembled more.
The logic of this board is run by the BUS of the Jeep. If an aftermarket company wanted to get the BUS controller for this and do some tweaking you could do a lot with this fancy little amp.
There is a vent that is pointed right at the amplifier heatsink. Jeep incorperated a vent just to cool the amp. This is simply good planning and great engineering. This amp is capable of pusing some high end speakers. I am really impressed after doing some more research.
TO SUM IT ALL UP.
Run this amp with some high end speakers. The amps are 2 OHM capable! This means they can stay linear and have great sound even with a high load! I am very impressed and I recommend replacing all the stock speakers with something high end that will handle at least 50 watts RMS EACH!
If you read the above link to the chips parametrics it can output 70 watts RMS typical each channel. THat is 70 watts RMS X 6 (six pairs off the black connector going to the speakers). That equals 420 watts RMS at 2 ohms.
To keep the stereo cool and with low distorsion it probably runs about 50 watts x 6 channels. That is at least 300 watts RMS linear!
UPGRADES
Run an amp and better sub in the stock enclosure for more bump (i did this and will have a write up on the JL Audio upgrade). Replace all the speakers with high end speakers and call it good. The infinity system is not as bad as you think.
Last edited by JulietKilo; Mar 4, 2008 at 08:35 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, TX
And its rude to chastise someone when you dont have full information..THATS what pms are for.
Last edited by Mo-mud; Mar 5, 2008 at 12:35 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,750
Likes: 1
From: WV relocated 2 Dyess AFB, TX
I said I was not agry and also was not being rude. Its just that so many posts get full of uselsess chattering (including me sometimes) I wanted to keep it clear for people looking for facts about our stereos. Sorry.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Deer Park, TX
NP..I was alil bit too snappy yesterday, headache got the best of me and all. I just wanted some extra info to possibly help with this thread and maybe a possible project ill be workin on and sometimes the best info is just digging into one first hand. I was not trying to jack the thread. my apoligies. now back on topic.
What I wanted to look at was possibly bridging some of the channels and seeing if the outputs would work correctly and possibly adding a second amp, doing some bridging there and boosting complete output of the system.
What I wanted to look at was possibly bridging some of the channels and seeing if the outputs would work correctly and possibly adding a second amp, doing some bridging there and boosting complete output of the system.
Last edited by Mo-mud; Mar 6, 2008 at 05:35 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Commerce, MI
I don't understand how the sub works.
When I fade all the power to the back there is almost no bass. I go to my trunk and notice that the sub is playing. I fade all the power to the front and the bass is pumping. I go to my trunk and it sounds to me that the sub is playing at the same volume as when it was faded to the rear. Is all this bass coming from the front speakers?
When I fade all the power to the back there is almost no bass. I go to my trunk and notice that the sub is playing. I fade all the power to the front and the bass is pumping. I go to my trunk and it sounds to me that the sub is playing at the same volume as when it was faded to the rear. Is all this bass coming from the front speakers?