Used Stock switch panel to control heated seats
I hard wired my Wet Okole heated seats through a relay and a switch on the dash. Searched all over for the best spot to mount the switches, and decided to use the stock switch panel. It wasn't quite as simple as I thought since the blanks don't just pull out. You have to remove the entire panel and take it apart. Sorry, forgot to take pictures while apart, but here is the end result.

I didn't remove the HVAC cables, just pulled the center console bezel cover off (4 7mm screws) and used a small phillips screwdriver to remove the switch panel from from the console bezel (it also has 4 screws) with the HVAC controls still attached. Once you have the switch panel out, you can take it apart then the blanks pop out from behind. Once the blanks are out, I drilled a hole which was larger than my 1/2" bit, so I needed to dremel the rest. I got the switches off a website - hxxp://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p4028.html. They come in a variety of colors. Be sure if you do use these switches that you are only switching a relay as the switch will not carry the load of the heated seats. I am running a 40amp relay.
Last edited by phljeeper; Nov 23, 2009 at 04:18 AM.
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Battery >> Inline fuse >> 40amp relay >> controlled by dash switch >> relay connected to seat
Connections on relay are as follows (one relay per heated seat):
-30 = constant [positive (+)] power (usually wired directly to car battery)
-85 = coil ground (wired to the negative (-) battery terminal or any grounded metal panel in the car)
-86 = coil power (wired to dash switch)
-87 = switched [positive (+)] power output. (+ sent to heated seat)
-87a = Not used - only active when switch is off
Nice install, never thought switches would fit in there....just a suggestion though, next time just grab yourself a spade bit in the size you need, they're cheap and available from any local hardware store


