Notices
Mid-West If you live in the Mid-West area (North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Iowa, Missouri and Oklahoma) and would like to meet some of the great JK-Forum members in your area and/or discuss upcoming trail events, this is the forum for you.

OK bs

Thread Tools
 
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #1311  
u-joint's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
Default

Originally Posted by interceptor_1972
Doesn't this Write up have what you're looking for?
Humm...

Install U-joints in new axles. This took the most time and was the most work, but it is just labor. CTM’s instructions are very good. I used a big hammer and a couple sacrificial sockets to install the U-joints, but a shop vise used as a press would be much easier. I wanted to know that I could do this in the field if I needed to.
I guess that means Alloy might have instructions as well...

I wonder if I can find these instructions online as a PDF or something
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #1312  
interceptor_1972's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 0
From: Lawton, OK
Default

I haven't done this obviously, but here's an article I came across when googling for U-joint replacement procedure:

hxxp://www.automedia.com/U_Joints_-_Installing_New_Universal_Joints/res20010201uj/1
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #1313  
u-joint's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
Default

Thats awesome... My hat's off to your googling abilities sir

That was exactly what I was looking for. Specifically, it mentions using a "u-joint press" tool. The guy says he picked one up from Harbor Freight for $23, I will look into that.

Just trying to make sure all my tools are in order.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:23 AM
  #1314  
interceptor_1972's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 0
From: Lawton, OK
Default

Originally Posted by jwhitehorn
...I wonder if I can find these instructions online as a PDF or something
Tried searching Alloy's website but didn't see any instructions online. None on CTM's website either.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:24 AM
  #1315  
interceptor_1972's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 0
From: Lawton, OK
Default

Originally Posted by jwhitehorn
...Specifically, it mentions using a "u-joint press" tool. The guy says he picked one up from Harbor Freight for $23, I will look into that...
You're very welcome... Always glad to help where I can.

On the other write up, he'd mentioned that a shop vise would work as well.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #1316  
u-joint's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
Default

Originally Posted by interceptor_1972
On the other write up, he'd mentioned that a shop vise would work as well.
You know, I was wondering that. In the one link you had, the guy used what looked like a c-clamp... so obviously this tool is nothing more than a vise, like you said.

I also read in that JK write-up your originally linked that he needed c-clip pullers... I'll have to look into that.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 08:50 AM
  #1317  
interceptor_1972's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,012
Likes: 0
From: Lawton, OK
Default

Originally Posted by jwhitehorn
...I also read in that JK write-up your originally linked that he needed c-clip pullers...
Looks like before long you'll have a nice tool collection going
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #1318  
Jerrod710's Avatar
JK Enthusiast
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 380
Likes: 1
From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Default

Originally Posted by interceptor_1972
That's about the main reason I prefer straps to chains; if the hook was to come loose, break or bend, or the tow point gives, that'll be a lot of kinetic energy coming back. And it's never a good idea to jerk any vehicle that's being recovered unless you're using a snatch strap. Doing so with a chain or tow rope will do more damage than good.
Even the strap one they are looking at has the hook ends that hook into the tow points on the cars. Some require the j hook ends to hook to the car and some need the t type ones. They sometimes have the tendency to bend easily if not used properly. The actual hook points on a lot of these cars where the j or t hook hooks to that hook point of the car are very very weak and will rip out easily. These hook points on most of these cars are also part of the body or floor pan of the car underneath, so it could be bad when one rips. I'm just putting this info out there so you guys are aware. The GM cars will rip easily and the worst is the VW Beetle.
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #1319  
u-joint's Avatar
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
Default

Originally Posted by Jerrod710
The GM cars will rip easily...
Somehow not surprising
Reply
Old Feb 5, 2011 | 01:54 PM
  #1320  
PainKiller's Avatar
JK Jedi
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Default

Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
The weight of the stuck vehicle isn't exactly the issue (of course, the heavier it is the more mired down it may become). It's the pulling force that you're applying. Obviously, the more stuck the vehicle, the greater that force, and the amount of force you can apply depends on your own vehicle's capability. If you're just using that "axle strap" by pulling it and you're on a slick road sliding all over, then it would be perfectly fine. If you're using your 9500 lb winch and he's only mildly stuck, then you're fine. But, if you're using that same winch and he's really stuck, you may damage something. What Jerrod said about the hooks bending may, in fact, be a safety feature--have that strap fail versus do serious damage to the vehicle.

BTW: When I criticized pick-up drivers for using chains, it isn't because I think chains should not be used in recovery. It's just that they should be used to attach to parts of the vehicle such as the frame. Then they should be attached to a winchline or tow/recovery/snatch strap with a proper shackle. The assemblies you've been discussing are obviously designed for that purpose.

But, if you want to use one with a winch, I'd recommend you be careful about where you hook it and how hard a pull you're expecting. Throw in anchoring your vehicle (tow/tree strap to the rear around a tree or to an anchor vehicle), and/or a snatch block (depending on how hooked up), and you could easily have close to ten tons of pulling force. That could be enough to pull out a vehicle by the axle--and leave everything but that axle still in the mud.

Here are a couple good articles on vehicle recovery ...

Tow Recovery Techniques (this is my preferred choice for vehicles not designed for off-road recovery, and should always be tried for any recovery, if practical, before resorting to a snatch or winch recovery--because it's safe, quick and convenient if it works) ...

4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=4wheeldrive&cdn=autos&tm=29&f=10&tt=14&bt=0 &bts=0&zu=http://www.4x4now.com/sf0100.htm

Snatch Recovery Techniques ...

4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=4wheeldrive&cdn=autos&tm=6&f=10&tt=14&bt=0& bts=0&zu=http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/reading/snatch.htm

Winching Basics ...

4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=4wheeldrive&cdn=autos&tm=8&f=10&tt=14&bt=0& bts=0&zu=http://www.jonfund.com/technical/winchingtips.shtml

I like the "axle straps" posted up. I may have to get one of those. Another piece of recovery gear I plan to get is a Pull-Pal. I could have used one a couple years ago when my pastor's Jeep got stuck in a ditch after going off an icy road. I was on ice trying to yank him out. There was nothing around to anchor to, and I was sliding all around. We had to do a lot of shoveling to make the pull easier. A Pull-Pal would have made winching him out quick and easy.
Great info as always Mark Thanks
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:09 AM.