They too were free, and thats my story and I'm sticking to it

It is going to be a week before we work on it... any ideas on how I should handle it in the mean-time? Is it ok to just leave the gears exposed (albeit in my garage)? Or should I just put the cover back on, even though there is no oil in there?

When I go to change the seal I'll have to (apparently) remove the carrier. I will be sure to clean everything exceptional well then with brake cleaner.

Its leaking at the far end of the axle tub, by the driver's tire.

 

Humm... this is going to show my ignorance, but I've never heard of either of those before

 

I would just put the cover on with a few bolts just to be safe. When you overfill dif , pressure will push oil out of seals and/or vent tube.

 

I'd put the cover back on and just hand tighten the bolts. No need to torque them down at this time. With the diff fluid emptied, it shouldn't leak out the axle tub anymore. Just make sure it doesn't dry up. Since it'll be for just a while, you'll be fine. Just make sure there isn't any water moisture in there - don't want any rust build up inside

That's where I figured it's leaking from. Just make sure you got a catch pan down to collect whatever little might drip out - keep it off your garage floor .

Anti seize will keep the threads from locking up (kinda like the reverse of locktite). Pipe dope - never heard that before, but wonder if it's plumbers tape?

 

starting to miss summer

 

It's just around the bend... trust me

 

Anti-seize comes in a tube at auto parts store and keeps bolts and nuts from seizing. Pipe dope comes in a tube in plumbing section and is like teflon tape but in paste form.

 

That's what I thought it meant - now I know another name for plumber's tape

 

I am beefing up my d30 and 35s now but looking into 37s soon.

 

I have some diff covers from king offroad in BA . It twists off with your hand so easy to get off and stays there too when tightened. Cost $99 for locals