So, got with a mechanic friend of mine that's been in the business 20+ years and been a body shop foreman and now, manager for 5+ years. Plan was to loosen up the track-bar bolts on both frame side and axle side, give the JK a good shaking up and down to settle the track-bar in good, then torque bolts down to spec - 125 ft. lbs. Frame side and axle side bolts were not at 125 ft. lbs . We'd checked this a few days back with a different torque wrench and it checked at 125; the Snap On we used today showed it wasn't. So, we proceeded to loosen both bolts, shook the JK front bumper a few times, and started torquing down the frame side first - a few turns and the familiar click-click... click-click. We move to the passenger side (axle side) and do the same - and torque, and torque... and pause to check that the dial didn't move on us, and tried torquing some more - no go. Bolt was toast. Spent 15+ minutes undoing the nut and when the bolt came loose, we noticed something. The bolt was 1/8" or so smaller than the hole it was in. This was a 1/2" Metric bolt - compare to the picture that shows a 1/2" SAE bolt that has a larger body. Replaced it with the bolt on the left, new nylocks and washers, torqued to 125 ft. lbs - click-click... click-click. And voila!!! No more steering shakes at ANY speed. Drove it down the highway at 70mph and I could take my hands off the wheel and it tracked straight as an arrow. At 40 - 45mph, drove like a charm. Took it over some rough bumps at several different speeds - 30mph, 35mph, 40mph, 45mph. Nothing! It is back to being like a whole new Jeep again .

I guess, my findings is this - was the bolts torqued down to 125 ft. lbs?? Probably. Maybe they got loose somehow, somewhere? Not all torque wrenches are made the same, and quite possibly the first one I'd checked it with was not calibrated? Secondly, EVEN if the bolt had been torqued down to spec, 1/8" play in the bolt hole was quite a bit and while it would not move when you push on it with your hands, drive a heavy Jeep at 30 - 60mph and the mass caused it to move around in the hole, causing the mild DW/bump steer and eventually, the full DW. Luckily, the holes were not wallowed out and everything else checked out good. This was HUGE relief to say the least.

 

Exactly. Not sure if the bolt was already bent from the movement, or if us trying to torque it down caused it, but when I held those two bolts together, you can tell a huge difference in the body of the two. The one that was in there was closer to a 7/16" SAE size - 19 mm head. The one that's now on there is a 1/2" SAE, 3/4" head and it was a flush fit in the hole and the track-bar bushing. Goes to show that bolt size differences, even minute ones, can have a huge impact.

 

I bet it was a huge weight off your shoulders. Now you have a rig you can enjoy again instead of gritting your teeth as you drive upon a set of RR tracks. was that the stock trackbar bolt ?

 

looks like the bending was due to pressure and the threads towards the head of the bolt were being stretched by the torque wrench. but that is cool you found the problem

 

You can say that again. Ever since we swapped the lift out, and the mild DW became a full blown one, driving in town had a whole new meaning. I'm sure people were wondering why I kept slowing down for no apparent reason (I'd see a bump or rough surface on the road and get below 30mph going over it ). It definitely felt good being able to drive it confidently.

The frame side bolt was stock. The axle/passenger side bolt was one that SLC had installed when they welded the JKS track-bar brace. I knew something done at that time caused the issue - and since the torques had checked out on the first torque wrench, I figured maybe the bowing coils was the cause . Nope, it WAS track-bar related, it WAS on the passenger side, and it was the stinking bolt . When we found that, it was a duh moment - all along, the passenger side going over the bumps caused the issue if you remember - both, mild DW and the full DW. It was like the JK was trying to point at the issue.

 

might want to let him know tomorrow when you drive down to texas, that way it doesn't happen again to someone else ( free shirt and stickers maybe ) i guess i will check mine again but it is the stock bolt. I have a feeling mine has to do with the caster being off so much but hopefully all the parts come in before the install so I can get it done all at one time

 

Now, we need to get yours fixed . I have a strong feeling that installing the arms will have an immediate impact on how your JK drives and handles. Here's a quick lesson learnt. Check the bolts that come with the arms (if they sent any); if it's a metric sized, or has any play when you put it through the bushing, ditch it for some quality Grade 8 SAE bolts that offer a snug fit. You'll thank yourself in the long run.

Grade 8 1/2" SAE bolt - $1.56
Grade 8 1/2" SAE washer x2 - $0.35 x2 = $0.70
Grade 8 1/2" SAE Ny-lock nut - $0.69
Having a Jeep that drives and handles perfectly - PRICELESS!!!

 

doesn't your jeep have "ESP"

 

Agreed. I'm taking the bolt down when I go down tomorrow morning. I guess they figured it was "close enough"? And for a few weeks there, it seemed ok. If yours is the stock bolt, you'll be fine. Your issue at the moment is the caster being off - your axles and tucked closer to each other causing the bump steer. Let me know if Sunday works for you and I'll come over to give you a hand with it - or if next Sunday works better, I can do that too. At the moment, I just can't do the weekdays (and I'm stretching it by taking tomorrow off, but I seriously need those parts installed).

 

The Jeep does - the owner lacked the reception is all