Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

2.5 rough country on jku, minimal problems

 
Old 02-24-2019, 01:41 PM
  #1  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default 2.5 rough country on jku, minimal problems

Ok, I'm new here but not new to lifted vehicles. The jeep tho is new to me. It's a 2013 wrangler unlimited sport, dozer, hardtop. I put a 2.5 rough country lift on it which is shocks and springs. Added the rough country adjustable front track bar and steering stabilizer. The rear I did the teraflex axle raised track bar mount. Along with alloy wheel spacers and 285-70-17s. It drives really good and smooth, roads in pa suck...the big potholes the wheel shakes. Now the tires are at 35psi and all the joints are tight. It was aligned at the dealer b4 the lift. The only thing to adjust is the toe, would that help adjusted more..?
Flatblack83 is offline  
Old 02-24-2019, 02:53 PM
  #2  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

I'll touch a little more on it, I know the caster changed with the lift. The track bar and drag link are pretty close to the same angle. I have a straight axled silverado on coilover and never had this kind of problem. Its minimal but still bounces the wheel. Do you guys need to change alot on just a 2.5 inch lift..?? I seen aev makes a kit for the lower lca.
Flatblack83 is offline  
Old 02-24-2019, 03:04 PM
  #3  
JK Jedi Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,896
Likes: 0
Liked 39 Times in 39 Posts
Default

...the big potholes the wheel shakes.
I guess this is the complaint, correct? Drives fine, hit a pothole, and the steering wheel shakes? Or a tire shakes? Or? Maybe you could describe the problem a little better ...

You paid for an alignment 'before' the lift went on, not after? From the factory, Caster is not adjustable. Caster gets worse as lift height increases, causing flightier steering. You did not indicate that any form of caster correction was installed, so, low caster = flighty/floaty steering.

Camber is not adjustable, but should not have changed due to the lift. From the potholes, quite possible. Toe is adjustable, but should not have changed due to the lift. From the potholes? Possible. Wouldn't hurt to have it checked, but again, since the issue isn't very clear, maybe its fine.

33" tires? Shops like to set the pressure high. Many with 33's or 35's tend to run down at 30psi or less. Might be worth some experimenting, but i would guess that steering wheel shake or tire shake is not caused by that extra 5psi.



You updated while I was writing this...

Trackbar and draglink angles (draglink flip or high steers) generally generally get corrected at 3.5" and taller. You have not installed a front trackbar bracket or a drop pitman by mistake, correct?

Caster - Either a set of brackets or a single set of control arms (fixed or adjustable) will correct it. But is that the cause of "the big potholes the wheel shakes" ? Don't know.

Last edited by nthinuf; 02-24-2019 at 03:13 PM.
nthinuf is offline  
Old 02-24-2019, 03:20 PM
  #4  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

It was aligned before the lift, before I bought it. They put michelin mxl tires from a new jk on it. I was told the toe was good and that wont change with the lift...that was from a dealer tech.
On the front I put a rough country adj track bar, no bracket. The rear I did the axle bracket to put the rear track bar where it was. The wheel doesnt shake hard, just shakes when you go thru a pot hole or bump with one corner, when u hit a bump in the road with both sides at one time it's ok. I asked about the caster because that sometimes causes it but I wasnt sure about only this amount of lift. I know rough country isnt the greatest.

I have both a 4 link truck and a long travel leaf spring truck and neither do this and one is on 40 inch boggers.

Last edited by Flatblack83; 02-24-2019 at 03:27 PM.
Flatblack83 is offline  
Old 02-24-2019, 03:49 PM
  #5  
JK Jedi
 
TheDirtman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southwest Reno, NV
Posts: 5,123
Likes: 0
Liked 68 Times in 58 Posts
Default

Check your track bar bolts make sure they are really torqued down.
TheDirtman is offline  
The following users liked this post: TheDirtman
Wandell (02-25-2019)
Old 02-24-2019, 03:55 PM
  #6  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

What's the proper spec..? 125 ftlbs..? I'll recheck that tomorrow.
Flatblack83 is offline  
Old 02-24-2019, 05:47 PM
  #7  
JK Jedi
 
resharp001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Willow Park, TX
Posts: 4,299
Liked 212 Times in 207 Posts
Default

Yup, 125 ft lbs. I'd guestimate that with 2.5" lift, your caster dropped from 4.2* down to the 3.4-3.5* range. If you confirm torque on that TB is correct, you might want to consider a means of caster correction. Looks like you've already seen the AEV brackets. Rancho and Metalcloak make nice 1-piece designs as well, or you could just do some adjustable lower front arms.
resharp001 is offline  
The following users liked this post: resharp001
Wandell (02-25-2019)
Old 02-25-2019, 01:32 PM
  #8  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Track bar was 90ftlbs and tires were at 37. Tightened up to 125 and tires at 30 it seems alot better. Prob good enough that it fine.

Now one more question, is it worth doing longer sway bar links..?
Flatblack83 is offline  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:42 PM
  #9  
JK Jedi Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,896
Likes: 0
Liked 39 Times in 39 Posts
Default

It's not a bad idea. Many kits ship with longer rear links, then you move the stock rear links up front. Or get disconnects if you offroad it.

The problem some folks have run into is that with short links and longer shocks, when the suspension is flexed out, the swaybar can flip around backwards which will damage the brackets and turn the links into pretzels. This has happened on lifts at the shop, not just offroad. But, it depends on the travel of your specific setup, so there isn't a firm answer on whether it will or won't happen to you.
nthinuf is offline  
Old 02-25-2019, 05:06 PM
  #10  
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Flatblack83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Frackville, pa
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Thankyou, I appreciate the help. I still have a little bump in the wheel but its so slight that it's no big deal. I ordered a set of teraflex rear links. For now I'll move the rears up front. How do u check the caster..? Angle finder on the knuckle..? I'm curious how far off it is, so longer lower links would bring it back..?

Last edited by Flatblack83; 02-25-2019 at 05:09 PM.
Flatblack83 is offline  

Quick Reply: 2.5 rough country on jku, minimal problems


Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: