jeeptv

Hi Guys
I know there has been a lot of post on this and i have read most of them but i still need more help on this.
My jeep started out with a 2.5 pro comp lift but upgraded to fox shocks and 35s then i have made a lot of changes since i wanted to go higher and get bigger tiers
- below is my set up now

3.5 rk springs
fox shocks with res
front and rear terflx adjustable track bars ( no rear bracket)
synergey - tie rod
synergey steering correction ( flipped) kit
all 8 adjustable control arms from Rubicon express
Rubicon express correction brackets
Rubicon express adjustable front disconnect sway bar
helwig sway front sway bar
about to add the rear helwig sway bar
terfliex big brake kit front and rear
37 13x50 toyo open country MT - psi set at 28 cold
i re gerd to 4:88
i also trusted and sleeved the axles on my dana 30


I been having bad steering for a long time and kept upgrading parts as you can see - and I am still all over the place even after the synergey correction kit - thought that was going to be my fix. then i added the upper front and rear control arms to get a better alignment - still all over the place.

I went to 4 wheel parts for most of the work - when they gave me the last alignment readings my caster was at
front driver side 2.8
front passenger side 3.2

they said to me that i should not go any higher - but what i am reading on here is should be 4-5 in caster
what should i do to get to this amount of caster so i am not all over the rd

My next question is - since i have all 8 adjustable control arms - do i need the correction brackets. is this effecting anything on my jeep now

the jeep also pulls to the right since my last alignment and need to hold steering wheel to the left to compensate. Yes i know i can adjust the drag link to fix that but that wont fix the pull to the right

please help so i can get the jeep driving straight down the rd

thanks

BlueBaby

Several things IMO

1) It's well documented the Toyos pull to the right

2) what you're experiencing with caster is why a lot of people go with aftermarket axles. Aftermarket will have additional caster built in and allow you to keep your pinion angle in check.

3) CA brackets could help, they change the CA angles and the way your Jeep handles road force. (like long arms do)

4) better ball joints

5) Truss welded correctly? No warping?

6) Play in steering box?

Tracking down issues stinks.....

jeeptv

i have correction brackets and all 8 control arms - i was under the impression with this i can adjust caster higher then what i have now
i did actually add the terflex balljoints as well last week - no change

- how do you know if you have play in steering box
- how does new axles help with steering

from what i been reading it sounds like i need more caster witch i get - i just dont know if i should be useing both correction brackets and all 8 adjustable arms together - or should i take off the brackets

also if i do go the new axle way - what are good axles that correct caster and all of that - can i still use my gears or should i get one with new gears - but i am relay trying to avoid going this way if all possible

BlueBaby

I've been in your same boat for years. Lifted w/ arms, 37s, trussed, Toyos, etc. I've fought everything you're fighting. In 70k miles I've replaced tie rod, drag link, unit bearings (twice), ball joints, track bar, and I'm sure more that I can't remember. Doesn't change the fact that if my caster is good, my pinion is bad and vice-versa. And remember your 3.5" springs likely gave you close to 5" of lift up front.

The factory gives you 6 degrees to play with, you decide how much of that is caster and how much is pinion angle. The higher lift you go with, the more pinion angle you have to have, therefore the less caster you can have. This article will explain it better than I can: https://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-tech/...affect-my-jeep

On our new Jeep I'm going with an aftermarket housing from the start, by the time you add up what I've spent on my axle I could've just bought the correct one. You can buy them with just the housing and swap your stuff, or you can buy them fully loaded. Dynatrac, Teraflex, Currie, and more all have 44s or 60s (if you're rich ) that will do what you need/want them to do.

The other option is to drop back down to 2.5" and use the CA brackets. I did that on our other Jeep and it drove great. Just cut your fenders or get a flat fender to fit your 37s.

And a terrible video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t76BVhtBMnE
YMMV

Rock Krawler Suspension

Castor on a 3.5" lift should be 4.2 to 5.5. That should be achievable without causing a pinion bind. 2.8-3.2 is bad, and fully explains why your Jeep is driving poorly. Also, check tire pressure.

Smudgeontheglass

Along with your castor angles being way too low for your tires and lift, there is no track bar on your list. Are you still running the stock track bar at that lift height?

Centering your axles front and rear will play a big part in how your Jeep drives down the road. The stock track bar will also flex a lot with 35s giving your steering a springy feeling.

jeeptv

right thats what i thought as well
but yet no one is answering one of my questions
so since i have all 8 adjustable control arms do i need the correction brackets anymore
- could this be one of the reasons i can not get the caster i need
- or is the guy doing my alignment lazy

jeeptv

sorry yes i do have front and rear terflex adjustable track bar- - i am not using the bracket in the rear
i now have 37 tiers...
the jeep is centered front and rear

Smudgeontheglass

The Castor Correction brackets are a poor-mans long arm. They lower the angle of your control arms making them more perpendicular to the ground and give your Jeep a little more compliant ride. When control arms are at a lower angle, they will spring up on a bump in the road transferring the energy to the spring and shock, instead of to the frame.

Are they needed with adjustable arms? The answer there is a straight no. The control arms can get your castor angle to what you need and will also move your control arms a little higher up to the frame and prevent impacts off-road.

For someone like me with stock arms, using Castor correction brackets set to my lift height, I am at about 5.2 degrees which makes it a very comfortable and controllable drive.

I still have a slight pull to the right I can't fix though.

nthinuf

There are two different things going on, that are directly connected:

As the pinion rotates down, caster goes up (better steering).
As the pinion rotates down, driveshaft joint angles get steeper. (possibly causing driveline vibes)

Can't change one without adversly affecting the other, it gets to be a trade-off between the two as you go higher.

So yes, you are correct that adj arms + brackets gives you plenty to work with to get the caster up to any number you want, as well as positioning the entire axle forward/backward in the wheel well. My guess is that the tech is looking only at driveline angle? But as noted by RK, you should be ok with caster up to 5* or so.