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3" stretch

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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 01:54 PM
  #51  
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I still vote to just do the damn 4 door. You know you want too. And you know that will make wheel so much better for you. Muahahaha
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 03:44 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
On a climb you want the weight on the rear as the rear does the bulk of the work. More weight will equal more traction. Moving the rear axle back moves weight towards the front and will reduce traction to the rear tires. At 3" this will be minimal. 3" of stretch will also be of minimal gain for what it cost and the time it takes. In reality if you want to save even more money you should just build your own arms as well. The people that have been there and done that told you the front stretch would be a better way to go while the one guy that wants to sell you a product tells you do the rear, so you choose to do the rear. Its your rig if you want to spend lots of money on minimal gain go for it.
Well dirt man, contrary to your belief, this forum and YOU are not the only experienced people that I have contact with. I've talked with others in the industry that have what I would bet is a lot more experiance and knowledge of suspension geometry and made my decision.

Thanks for the input!

Northridge 4x4
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 03:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SullivanSeptic
I still vote to just do the damn 4 door. You know you want too. And you know that will make wheel so much better for you. Muahahaha
Zip it SHREK! Lol!

Northridge 4x4
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 04:59 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by SullivanSeptic
I still vote to just do the damn 4 door. You know you want too. And you know that will make wheel so much better for you. Muahahaha
Still false... 6 rigs at The Hammers this weekend on Jack Hammer, Sledge Hammer & Chocolate Thunder.
Everyone one was locked F&R
3 JKUs locked on 37s (1 MC Gamechanger 3.5"/ 1 RK X Factor 3.5" / 1 Frankenlift 3.5")
1 JK on 37s (me) (3.5" RK X Factor)
1 CJ8 on 39.5's (totally custom)
1 LJ on 35s (RE 5" short arm)

Everyone winched but me and the CJ8. The LJ only winched once. All the JKUs had breakover angle issues, hanging up on the belly especially after climbing ledges with immediate drop offs on the other side. You would need 33's and 2" of lift to get a JKU to the same breakover angle as a stock 2 door rubicon, math doesnt lie. I will post video in a couple days when its ready.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Ajkaz
Still false... 6 rigs at The Hammers this weekend on Jack Hammer, Sledge Hammer & Chocolate Thunder. Everyone one was locked F&R 3 JKUs locked on 37s (1 MC Gamechanger 3.5"/ 1 RK X Factor 3.5" / 1 Frankenlift 3.5") 1 JK on 37s (me) (3.5" RK X Factor) 1 CJ8 on 39.5's (totally custom) 1 LJ on 35s (RE 5" short arm) Everyone winched but me and the CJ8. The LJ only winched once. All the JKUs had breakover angle issues, hanging up on the belly especially after climbing ledges with immediate drop offs on the other side. You would need 33's and 2" of lift to get a JKU to the same breakover angle as a stock 2 door rubicon, math doesnt lie. I will post video in a couple days when its ready.
This doesn't matter, someone can show you 10 examples of where a JKU has the advantage - then someone else can show 10 specific examples of where the JK has the advantage.
I run with 2 doors and they do struggle more in the Moab type terrain - but excel in the rubicon trail type terrain. So what? Which is better? Something in between? I think so
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:17 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Ajkaz
Still false... 6 rigs at The Hammers this weekend on Jack Hammer, Sledge Hammer & Chocolate Thunder. Everyone one was locked F&R 3 JKUs locked on 37s (1 MC Gamechanger 3.5"/ 1 RK X Factor 3.5" / 1 Frankenlift 3.5") 1 JK on 37s (me) (3.5" RK X Factor) 1 CJ8 on 39.5's (totally custom) 1 LJ on 35s (RE 5" short arm) Everyone winched but me and the CJ8. The LJ only winched once. All the JKUs had breakover angle issues, hanging up on the belly especially after climbing ledges with immediate drop offs on the other side. You would need 33's and 2" of lift to get a JKU to the same breakover angle as a stock 2 door rubicon, math doesnt lie. I will post video in a couple days when its ready.
But I went to Moab with 19 JKU's, 11 JK's, 7 buggies, 3 rzrs, 6 toyotas, 2 hummers, 4 stock Yukon Denali's, 2 brand new F350 dually's and a mule. I was the only one (JKU) that drove every trail in Moab and made it while in 2wd with Poison blasting on the radio. So until anyone shows me otherwise, I stand by my statement.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Wrangeler X
Well dirt man, contrary to your belief, this forum and YOU are not the only experienced people that I have contact with. I've talked with others in the industry that have what I would bet is a lot more experiance and knowledge of suspension geometry and made my decision. Thanks for the input! Northridge 4x4
Looks like you got it all figured it out.

I question if 3" is gonna make a noticeable difference. Pull up 3" on your tape measure (or whatever you else you have). It's minimal. There's over 20" difference between a JK and JKU. Have folks that have stretched only 3" noticed a sizable gain? Or it just perceived because you just spent a ton of time and money on it?
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by sea bass
This doesn't matter, someone can show you 10 examples of where a JKU has the advantage - then someone else can show 10 specific examples of where the JK has the advantage.
I run with 2 doors and they do struggle more in the Moab type terrain - but excel in the rubicon trail type terrain. So what? Which is better? Something in between? I think so
Thanks Sea Bass, I agree your completely right! Im trying to show that neither is superior... But you'll never get a JKU to "something in between"
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 07:05 PM
  #59  
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The biggest issue with a 4 door is getting better approach and decline angles without making the breaker angle even worse then it is. On the 2 door you can push both axles to the bumpers and get those angles really steep so you can climb steeper ledges and come off stuff without hanging up on the rear bumper. A 3" rear stretch does not move the axle back far enough to accomplish this and the only reason there is a 3" stretch out there is due to the fact you can move the axle 3" without having to cut a frame cross member.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 09:22 PM
  #60  
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Well it seems you have decided. Either way, looking forward to what this new setup is going to be and consist of. Im looking forward to the day I ripped off my current lift and stretch the front and rear.
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