3" stretch
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 2
From: NA
Thats why stretching would now put that 2 door in a whole new category and I bet it would out perform a 4 door.
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: ChiTown South Side Irish
When talking about "comparably built" rigs as you said, the 4 door will do better. Now if you do a long arm and stretch a 2 door a good amount, then yes a 2 door would.
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
The 3" stretch in the rear is worth it in my opinion. You can push the front about 1" without going to coil overs. Not perfect, but you can do it.
I am of the opinion that coil overs and stretching the front is very similar in overall undertaking as the rear long arm with body trimming and corner installation. Both are going to require cutting and welding for the suspension and track bar mounts, you just don't have to trim the body in the front. Trimming the body isn't bad.
Local laws were mentioned along with me trailering my Jeep. We don't have fender laws here in TX and the Jeep is 100% street legal. Tagged, registered, inspected, and insured for daily driver duties if I want to take it out. I don't drive it on the street much because of my tire choice and the harnesses being a pain for running errands or daily duties. My wife and I take it out cruising on the weekends when the weather is nice, it does just fine on the road if you take into account I'm on bias tires.
If you want to talk to me directly I'd be happy to talk to you about the process and what you can expect to run into either way. My number is 832-526-2415.
Marcus
I am of the opinion that coil overs and stretching the front is very similar in overall undertaking as the rear long arm with body trimming and corner installation. Both are going to require cutting and welding for the suspension and track bar mounts, you just don't have to trim the body in the front. Trimming the body isn't bad.
Local laws were mentioned along with me trailering my Jeep. We don't have fender laws here in TX and the Jeep is 100% street legal. Tagged, registered, inspected, and insured for daily driver duties if I want to take it out. I don't drive it on the street much because of my tire choice and the harnesses being a pain for running errands or daily duties. My wife and I take it out cruising on the weekends when the weather is nice, it does just fine on the road if you take into account I'm on bias tires.
If you want to talk to me directly I'd be happy to talk to you about the process and what you can expect to run into either way. My number is 832-526-2415.
Marcus
Coil overs will allow for better adjustment and performance where rear armor and fenders add weight and a cut up body that kills resale value on the jeep. There is also the cool factor coil over will give you.
The front stretch will improve approach angle for steeper climbs. It will also move the weight center back a bit giving the jeep a better balance in the front to rear. This will result in less weight shift when accelerating and will reduce front coil unloading on climbs. You will reduce rear squat when accelerating and less front brake dive. More weight towards the rear will give the rear tires more traction. All of these benefits are reversed if you are doing a rear stretch. More coil unloading, more brake dive, less rear traction. It will give you a better decline angle and you will not hit the rear bumper so much on drop offs.
A front stretch=less money, more handling and suspension benefits, and can pretty easily be put back to stock if you wish for resale (save all the factory brackets and parts). I know a lot of people think of the rear 3" stretch because RK offers that in a kit but I don't know how you can argue it would be better to do a rear stretch over a front in terms of cost or performance.
The only thing I can see where you get any benefit from a rear stretch is a longer rear driveshaft that will allow a bit more angle before binding if properly set up.
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 659
Likes: 1
From: Channahon IL
Just the cost of the rear corners and fenders would pay for the entire front set up at around $1500. moving the box only requires $5 worth of DOM tubing. A track bar bracket is around $50. A pair of dual rate coil over shocks will run $900-whaterver options you want. Coil over mounts $100. Both front or rear is going to require longer arms and a new or lengthened driveshaft so that is a wash. Coil overs will allow for better adjustment and performance where rear armor and fenders add weight and a cut up body that kills resale value on the jeep. There is also the cool factor coil over will give you. The front stretch will improve approach angle for steeper climbs. It will also move the weight center back a bit giving the jeep a better balance in the front to rear. This will result in less weight shift when accelerating and will reduce front coil unloading on climbs. You will reduce rear squat when accelerating and less front brake dive. More weight towards the rear will give the rear tires more traction. All of these benefits are reversed if you are doing a rear stretch. More coil unloading, more brake dive, less rear traction. It will give you a better decline angle and you will not hit the rear bumper so much on drop offs. A front stretch=less money, more handling and suspension benefits, and can pretty easily be put back to stock if you wish for resale (save all the factory brackets and parts). I know a lot of people think of the rear 3" stretch because RK offers that in a kit but I don't know how you can argue it would be better to do a rear stretch over a front in terms of cost or performance. The only thing I can see where you get any benefit from a rear stretch is a longer rear driveshaft that will allow a bit more angle before binding if properly set up.
The front stretch will improve approach angle for steeper climbs. It will also move the weight center back a bit giving the jeep a better balance in the front to rear. This will result in less weight shift when accelerating and will reduce front coil unloading on climbs. You will reduce rear squat when accelerating and less front brake dive. More weight towards the rear will give the rear tires more traction. All of these benefits are reversed if you are doing a rear stretch. More coil unloading, more brake dive, less rear traction. It will give you a better decline angle and you will not hit the rear bumper so much on drop offs. A front stretch=less money, more handling and suspension benefits, and can pretty easily be put back to stock if you wish for resale (save all the factory brackets and parts). I know a lot of people think of the rear 3" stretch because RK offers that in a kit but I don't know how you can argue it would be better to do a rear stretch over a front in terms of cost or performance. The only thing I can see where you get any benefit from a rear stretch is a longer rear driveshaft that will allow a bit more angle before binding if properly set up.Northridge 4x4
JK Freak
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 505
Likes: 4
From: Anaheim, ca
OK TheDirtman, I am going to take on the front stretch! I am running a RK X-Factor kit, I will reach out to them for longer Arms. Do you have a ballpark idea on arm length hole to hole? I am sending the steering box to WTO for hydro so this is the perfect opportunity. I am comfortable welding in a coilover kit but am a little bummed out about cutting out the shock tower and coil bucket. What do you recommend for a CO kit that includes mounts & coilovers? This is a 2 door and I am wanting no more than 3" of lift out of the front setup so it matches the rear until I can move to CO back there also.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 2
From: NA
I believe there was one one person that agreed with doing the rear first. What was the "best bang for your buck" on going with a 3inch rear stretch over the front?
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
OK TheDirtman, I am going to take on the front stretch! I am running a RK X-Factor kit, I will reach out to them for longer Arms. Do you have a ballpark idea on arm length hole to hole? I am sending the steering box to WTO for hydro so this is the perfect opportunity. I am comfortable welding in a coilover kit but am a little bummed out about cutting out the shock tower and coil bucket. What do you recommend for a CO kit that includes mounts & coilovers? This is a 2 door and I am wanting no more than 3" of lift out of the front setup so it matches the rear until I can move to CO back there also.
As for brackets there are several to choose from. This is a nice one that is adjustable ADJUSTABLE WELD ON FRAME COIL OVER/AIR SHOCK MOUNT TOWERS - Shock Mounting - Products - Chassis Unlimited
Here is a link to the 12" ruff stuff, they have other models as well. 12" Shock Tower, 2" Deep - Pair - RuffStuff Specialties
Ballistic fabrication.https://www.ballisticfabrication.com...nt=21326383495
WFO Universal Rear for 2.0 Coilovers | Shock Towers and Hoops | WFOConcepts.com
For axle side you can do from cheap to fancy depending on where you want to place the mounts.
This one is nice if you go behind the axle.https://www.ballisticfabrication.com...nt=21326384391
These work nice for above the axle and allow for the widest mount.https://www.ballisticfabrication.com...nt=21326323655
These work nice for just mounting on top of the axle and are the cheapest way to go. Everyone makes these. https://www.ballisticfabrication.com...nt=21326367815