About to install Nitro axle sleeves
#1
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About to install Nitro axle sleeves
Well, I've had these sleeves for a couple of weeks, and after putting it off and putting it off, when I do my ball joints later this week I'm going to install the sleeves as well. Just a few questions to make myself completely clear on this install...
My Jeep is relatively new (2,400 miles, 0 offroad) Do I need to clean the axle tube? I intend on lubing the sleeves with anti seize, but is cleaning the tube really needed?
Is there a "better" bearing race driver I should purchase? Or will something I can find at Autozone suffice? (I'm planning on making a tool to slide the driver into and beat on the tool rather than the driver itself...)
My Jeep is relatively new (2,400 miles, 0 offroad) Do I need to clean the axle tube? I intend on lubing the sleeves with anti seize, but is cleaning the tube really needed?
Is there a "better" bearing race driver I should purchase? Or will something I can find at Autozone suffice? (I'm planning on making a tool to slide the driver into and beat on the tool rather than the driver itself...)
#2
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you definitely need a bearing driver or you run the risk of bending the sleeve. athe guy at adreneline offroad used a piece of wood. i got a kit at harbor freight. this allowed me to put one in the middle to remove any chance that the sleeve got bent.
i used a piece of pipe but you are removing the knuckle for the ball joints
definitely clean the tubes. i used a hone on an extension in a wd 40 bath
i lubed the bejesus out of the sleeve with axle greare and froze it for a week and it still got stuck at the knurled part. alot of people have then had to cut off the part hanging out thats a pain in the ass let me tell you
i would see how tight a fit it is by hand. if you are going to have hammer it in from the beginning id take a flap wheel to the knurls. it wont move when youre done. if you are scared put a tack of weld.
also try and keep the jeep axle level. id leave the opposite wheel on. i heard of a guy who jacked up the front and took off both wheels then banged the thing off the jacks.
good luck.
by the way what ball joints did you choose? and does anti seize work as a lube?
i used a piece of pipe but you are removing the knuckle for the ball joints
definitely clean the tubes. i used a hone on an extension in a wd 40 bath
i lubed the bejesus out of the sleeve with axle greare and froze it for a week and it still got stuck at the knurled part. alot of people have then had to cut off the part hanging out thats a pain in the ass let me tell you
i would see how tight a fit it is by hand. if you are going to have hammer it in from the beginning id take a flap wheel to the knurls. it wont move when youre done. if you are scared put a tack of weld.
also try and keep the jeep axle level. id leave the opposite wheel on. i heard of a guy who jacked up the front and took off both wheels then banged the thing off the jacks.
good luck.
by the way what ball joints did you choose? and does anti seize work as a lube?
#3
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I watched this Nitro Sleeves Install Party - YouTube and it sure looks like they are applying anti seize. Although I'm not sure of its lubricating abilities, I think I'll give it a shot. I want to make a tool like the one they used in that video, it seemed to work well. I'll check out harbor freight tomorrow, thanks.
I went with a brand i'm not allowed to speak of (not Dynatrac), I figured with 35's (and no intent to go any bigger...$$$) they should do me well.
I went with a brand i'm not allowed to speak of (not Dynatrac), I figured with 35's (and no intent to go any bigger...$$$) they should do me well.
#4
JK Freak
We used anti seize. Can't say it worked great or anything since we had a hell of a time getting them in. In the end we did cut off 22 mm from the passenger side because no amount of hammering would get them in. If you get to that point, let me know and I can tell you a clean and safe way of cutting some off. Hopefully that won't happen though. Other than the freezer you could also put them in a cooler with some dry ice. I have heard that helps too.
Oh and most importantly, don't forget the beer. You will need that.
Oh and most importantly, don't forget the beer. You will need that.
#5
I stuck mine in the freezer overnight, did one side at a time leaving the wheel/tire on the other side and on the ground.
I found the bearing driver a bit of a pain to hang onto when it was most of the way in(the most difficult part.) I had a piece of solid aluminum about 4' long and slightly larger in diameter than the sleeves that made it a piece of cake. I think it only took about 5 minutes a side with that method using only a 10lb sledge. Mine only had 7k miles at the time of install, and didn't have any gussets or anything welded to the axle. I used a cylinder honing tool to get some of the surface rust on the outter most portion of the axle tube. I did use some antisieze as well.
I found the bearing driver a bit of a pain to hang onto when it was most of the way in(the most difficult part.) I had a piece of solid aluminum about 4' long and slightly larger in diameter than the sleeves that made it a piece of cake. I think it only took about 5 minutes a side with that method using only a 10lb sledge. Mine only had 7k miles at the time of install, and didn't have any gussets or anything welded to the axle. I used a cylinder honing tool to get some of the surface rust on the outter most portion of the axle tube. I did use some antisieze as well.
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yeah that girder tool seemed to work great, but you will have the knuckles off. like the other guy said no amount of beating will work once it get stuck thats why id sand the knurles down. if i gets stuck i used a dremmel with the metal cutoff wheel and an hour. first i used a grinder and grinded my abs sensor.
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Thanks for all the replies. It's nice to have some direct insight on something like this. I've never pulled a shaft, so this is new territory for me. They've been in the freezer since Sunday evening, and I intend to start disassembly tomorrow afternoon. I think I'm going to take your advice and sand down some of the knurled end.
Don't worry, beer will not be forgotten...
Don't worry, beer will not be forgotten...
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#8
JK Freak
Originally Posted by themoneyshot
yeah that girder tool seemed to work great, but you will have the knuckles off. like the other guy said no amount of beating will work once it get stuck thats why id sand the knurles down. if i gets stuck i used a dremmel with the metal cutoff wheel and an hour. first i used a grinder and grinded my abs sensor.
I'm not even sure it was the knurled end we were fighting with. The whole sleeve on that side was a pain in the ass, so I'd say it was more likely the whole sleeve fighting back, not just the end. Drivers side went in like a charm.
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let me know how your install goes. My sleeves are supposed to be here thursday from northridge 4x4. I'll be installing mine sometime next week. Hope all goes well. I'm going to freeze mine, and use some spray grease, and a bearing/race driver and a bfh!! hope it goes smooth as well.
Luke
Luke
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Call and talk to carl or Matt at JT (just differentials) 866-349-6801 they did mine as well as do them fairly often and have it dialed...they would be happy to help info wise or tips...
Mine are straight on the edges no bash or cut marks either...just a thought...
When I was going to build mine up I was going to call them per recommended from others I ended up just buying the d44 that was built for 4wheel drive magazine truck...
Mine are straight on the edges no bash or cut marks either...just a thought...
When I was going to build mine up I was going to call them per recommended from others I ended up just buying the d44 that was built for 4wheel drive magazine truck...