jkkrawler

Sooo just to start off saying. I have a 2011 rubi 2 door. 3in BDS lift, 1 3/4 body, factory control arms, 37in military tires and twf beadlock. I bought the jeep with that lift set up on it. It already had a set of 37 in bfg ATs on it. DW started about a month after I bought it. No big deal. Prolly a track bar. Replaced the tb with a rubi express tb. Didn't fix it it. Right after that I got an offer on trading my bfgs and moto metal wheels for a set of twf beadlocks and 37s. So I went up with the deal and so on and so forth now I have them. So I replaced the track bar. No go. I replaced the drag link with a Currie 1 ton flip drag link and no go. Replaced the tie rod ends on the tie rod. No go. I then had the tb mount welded becuz I noticed the bolt hole was wallowed out. No go. Changed the steering stabilizer no go went with a dual stabilizer kit and that helped for a couple months. Then the stabilizers blew and back with a wobble. I then tryed my tires. Borrowed a set of 33s and no more wobble. Ended up buying them off him. Ran them for about 6 months. Friend of mine wanted them so I sold them to him and put my 37s back on. Bought 2 new tires for the front thinking my tires were warped or something. Worked for about 5 miles. But I've noticed. If I let it sit for awhile then it takes a few miles for it start acting up trying to kill me. Any suggestions to my fellow jk friends.

JK JK

So your question is why are you having wabble on your 37's?

So from what I understand your replaced your Track bar and centered your axle right?
Then you place a drag link flip kit right?
And you have your caster set at +4.2° right?
And your tires are balanced?
And you have your toe in a 1/16" each side?

I have some other questions if needed.

jkkrawler

I've done all of that. My toe is at 0" each side. And replaced 37s.

Bypass

Each. Side. What? You can't set a JKs toe one side at a time. And you shouldn't be at zero toe anyway. Due to steering component stretch/flex and tire distortion, you should be running around 1/18-1/16" of toe IN.

What is your wheel offset?

How are your balljojnts?

Tire pressure?

Can you take a good clear bright picture of your front control arm joints, especially the uppers?

JK JK

So when you say 0, your saying the tires are square, completely parallel? The need to be in combined 1/8" toe in.

So you have a 3" lift and 1.75" body lift right? So when you look at your springs in the front they are straight up and down? And you do have adjustable upper control arms?

Have someone in the cab of your Jeep and move your steering wheel back and forth. Is there any noise?

JK JK

Oh that's a good one....Forgot about tire pressure. You should be running 24-26 psi on your tires. Ball joints would be a cause as well.

I changed out my ball joints out after 15k miles on mine. Went to Synergy or you can go the best with Dynatrac.

Bypass

With stock control arms there is no way you have enough caster for one thing.

jkkrawler

Yea but being at 0 shouldn't cause DW.

Bypass

It most certainly can compound problems.

jkkrawler

And all my arms are stock. Ball joints are good. My psi is at 30. I'll bump it down tmrw. Give that a shot. And my control arm bushings are fine. Just factory.