Ok, I'm still confused. the link that you posted is still for Driveshafts, not axle shafts.

 

You're right. My attitude sucks this morning, but I did try to clarify things for you with my first post. The JE Reel products are driveshafts which are meant to replace the stock CV driveshafts. U-joints are used in the JE Reel units because they are believed to be stronger than the stock CVs and they are easier to replace in the field should one break. There are no axle shaft upgrades available yet, to my knowledge. The stock 27 spline Dana 30 JK shafts APPEAR to be the same diameter as in the past, so the seals you are referring to MIGHT work. I don't know it the seals for the Dana 44 are different or not. Good luck.

 

those are DRIVE shafts, not AXLE shafts.
And I don't care if my "attitude" sucks If you can not determine or use the correct vocabulary while modifying your vehicle you should stop, learn what you are saying, and try again or sell the jeep and buy a Honda


and I have no clue what you are talking about with the "seal". What seal, EXACTLY are you talking about? Pinion? axle shaft?

 

I think he's talking about some of these:

 

Axle shaft does not = driveshaft
Apple does not = Oranges

No attitude, you are just not making sense

 

I understand that the propeller shaft/axle shaft coming off the transfer case is not going to the wheels. I double checked on the JE Reel parts and your correct, they do not yet make an axleshaft upgrade. From the link I posted previously on Northridge it sounded like the base purchase was the propeller shaft going to the Dana44 rear and the options were CV upgrades. I was confused on the axle seal location and thought it was in someway upgrading the axleshaft seal coming off the transfer case. It looks like they are just upgraded drive axle seals for the front axle. Sorry for the confusion, I'm not a Jeep expert yet. I've never had to look for these parts before, I'm normally setting stuff up for a track and not for rock crawling or off-roading. I'm just trying to make sure I'm getting the right parts so that I'm not towing my Jeep home from Moab in June. It sounds like water fording is going to be a part of that trip and I'm hoping I don't ruin anything. I destroyed the driveline in a 87' Chevy Pickup fording water during a flood back home in 93' and that was only driving through 2 ft deep water 5 or 6 times.

Are the stock front axle seals just crappy? Is this something I should be worried about?

 

Ok, first thing you have to do is QUIT CALLING THE DRIVESHAFTS AXLE SHAFTS. Now that we are past that AGAIN...your driveshafts connect your transfer case to the axle. Your AXLE SHAFTS are inside your axle housing between your differential and either your front hub assembly or your rear wheels. I understand that you may be new to this, but several people have tried to clarify this for you and you just aren't following along. Proper terminology may help you in future posts. The factory front axles have seals at the differential end of the axle tubes and sometimes do start to leak after a while. They aren't any different from any other solid front axle vehicle though. Good. luck.

 

GEZZZZZZZ ....people are trying to help, but you are not reading our post or something. You are still naming parts incorrectly, I don't care if yourrock crawling, running track or what, a axle is and axle and a driveshaft is a driveshaft.

 

aside from the annoying incorrect use of words I will "try" to help you (using the right words)

the seal on your transfer case is fine and will hold up to water crossing and is not upgradable.
the seals on your front and rear axle AT THE PINION are fine/not upgradable
The stock seals on the axle TUBES are fine and should not need upgrading at this time.

The "upgraded" DRIVE SHAFTS (we are in the USA, dont say "prop" shafts as people will look at you retarded) switch the stock driveshafts from a BALL CV style to a double cardan CV style (they are both CV joints) the double cardan being able to be field repaired easily.

ALL joints and axles and transfer case and transmission AND engine oil should be checked for water contamination after water crossing just in case. You can see if the oil has become this milkshake sludge crap just by pulling a dipstick or opening a fill plug and sticking your finger in.
The U-joints in the double cardan CV should be re-greased after water crossing as it is cheap insurance and not hard to do.

What did you destroy in your Chevy? Your vague and incorrect words make it hard to figure shit out. "Driveline" is very vague.

 

Thanks Doc, I understand what your saying and I realized I wasn't using the correct terminology in part because I didn't fully understand all the pieces/components. I believe I understand now and thanks for bearing with me on this. On the chevy, I had water intrusion via the rear differential housing. The truck had 70k on it and the seal wasn't perfect anymore. I didn't know I had a problem until it was too late. I should have checked and I should have had it worked on before I ended up with the problem. I just want to avoid causing the headaches for myself with the Jeep. I'm normally a sport compact guy and I haven't gotten into modification of the driveline components before. I'm trying to look at the Jeep and off-roading the same way I look at my Evo and setting her up for the track. I had done all power mods and not focused on the suspension when I started and realized that was a mistake after the fact. I'd like to build the Jeep out correctly to minimize problems on the trail. Its one thing to roll my car onto a trailer and tow her home, its completely different to f-up 50 miles from civilization and realize I'm screwed. I'm not planning on doing anything crazy my first time out like Helldorado, but I am thinking about doing the canyonlands rim trail, maybe not the full circuit but at least part of it. (I know thats a whole series of trails, but I don't know all the names, I was out there in 94' with some friends and we did some of it in a beat up cherokee, I'd like to go much further this time)