The locker 'is' the carrier. You can get an open carrier for it and add a locker later if you want. D44 gears are bigger/thicker, so you can't re-use your d30 gears. (It comes with the gears of your choice, already set up.) And the inner axles are different also, so you can't reuse the d30 shafts.

As noted, the only d30 parts you can re-use are the ends.

 

If you have a Rubi44, you can get a different version of the PR that accepts all of the stock rubi internals. If you have a D30, none of the internals will transfer.

 

I busted mine with On-Road driving, so I have just about zero faith in the stock 30.

My first quote in this thread summed it up. The OP says money is not an issue, he wheels frequently, and he wants to be well protected when offroading. To me, that means PR, not a built pos factory 30.

Not saying the PR is the best option for everyone, just that it makes a ton of sense for him, given the criteria he specified.

 

So hopefully I understand now. I could go with the empty PR44 housing
( http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...=DYN-PROROCK44 ) and then add someone's take off JK d44 front axle shafts (or go with the RCVs), add my d30 dactory bjs, leave it an open carrier for now, add some 5.13 d44 gears, my d30 brakes, and my d30 knuckles and I would be all set?

With the empty PR44 housing, is it set up as an empty carrier to accept gears right out of the box?

 

Say you only do a little off roading and want to go the route of building up the D30. Do most off road shops install the gussets or do you have to take it to a welder?

How much does that usually cost?

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

The one you linked is set up as an empty housing, and will include only the factory ball joints. You would need an open carrier, or a locker, to hold the gears. You would supply the gears and the overhaul kit and have someone install them. If you use some take-off rubi axles, then you are locked into the PR 'factory' housing, and will have to find a factory locker for it. Last I heard, they are around $1200 new, so hope that you can score a cheap used one that is still working. The only non-factory option for that housing is the 35spline ARB, but you have to use 35spline axles shafts, so if you go that route, you just wasted money buying the stock shafts.

If you choose the non-factory housing, it is the same process, but you have a lot more choices.

 

Basically, if I went with the PR44, I would want to do it as cheaply as possible which is why I would want to run Rubi take off d44 axle shafts. There are complete sets on craigslist for $150. This is my first Jeep (I'm new to wheeling) and I'm thinking about keeping my JK for many years. I will be doing easy trails and some sand dunes on 35s, therefore, at this time, I don't think I would need a locker. The only reason I would consider the PR44 now is because I would not have to worry abut bending, r&p failure, etc like if I kept my d30, even if I sleeved it and put on some c gussets. I have heard horror stories of d30s bending with 35s driven only on the street. Many would probably say that the PR44 would be overkill in my situation but if that means that in 10 + years my JK is still going strong and I do decide to drive some more challenging trails, it may just be worth doing now before spending money on the d30.

If I went with the non-factory housing, would my only choice for axle shafts be the RCVs? Any cheaper options?

 

With the standard housing, you can use any locker and any shaft that will fit in a D44.

With the factory (rubicon replacement) housing, you have the choice of the factory locker or the 35sp ARB. Factory locker, you can use any d44 shaft that will fit the factory rubicon front housing. The problem is that used factory lockers are hard to come by, and a new factory locker is outrageously expensive. If you choose to go with an aftermarket locker, the ONLY option is the 35sp ARB with 35sp shafts.
Also, I haven't heard of an open carrier being available for the rubicon housings, so your build plan using this housing may not even be an option?


Keep your 30 stock, or with minimal upgrades, and go have fun. You should have plenty of time to research the PR and get a build plan together. If/when the time comes for a PR, (my opinion here) unless you currently have a rubi44 front, the better option is to get the standard PR housing so you are not locked into the factory locker/35sp arb deal...

 

Ok. Thanks for all your help