I am getting slight a wobble at 50 MPH. Should it be that difficult to balance 33" BFG KM 2's . I have had 2 places try. What is the answer to get a wobble free ride. I would appreciate any insight here I could share with my garage.
They are only 33's not 35's??????

 

What type of balancer are they using? I had problems with mine at first, then took them to NTB who had a special balancer (sorry don't know the name) and my problems were gone.

 

if you have aluminum wheels they should use sticky weights only. Not the ones that go on the edge of the rim.

 

It's not just the tire that they are balancing, it's the wheel too. Regardless of what type or size tire, the wheel will more than likely have imperfections that need correcting as well.

As far a secrets to balancing, well, it's pretty straight forward. Make sure it's balanced before it goes on your car! If your "garage" can't balance it, then find a new one.

 

Also one possible cause could be tire sliding on wheel if you have done some tight offroading with low pressure on tires. This could throw your balance to ashtray as these bigger tires are not in balance at all then they come out of factory molds. So what was originally well balanced tire can become unbalanced if it gets a chance to rotate on wheel.

 

So far i've had my Dick Cepek Mud Country's 35x12.50x17s balanced 6 times and i'm scheduling number seven for this week. I've tried the internal media balancing and had much better luck with EQUAL the dry siliconized polymer that goes inside the wheel than i'm currently having with the Dynabeads ceramic beads. both have their pro's and cons, and while alone the EQUAL was better than the dynabeads, the dynabeads allows for the use of weights as well to account for lateral imbalance of the wheel. I have two tires with beads and wieghts, and three just beeds, still get a mild wobble at 45, and a vibration on the freeway. So in a few days i'll schedule an appointment at an offroad place not far from here that specializes in balancing these monsters. My only debate now is whether to leave the beads inside and have the wheels wieght balanced to zero, so the beads will essentially do nothing until the wheel wears down then the beads will compensate for that, or to just have the beads taken out and balanced with wieghts only. Again they both have their pros and cons. Lead wieghts when done right are perfectly balanced until the tire wears or you throw a weight, or you tear off a lug. The beads are supposed to balance the tire perfectly everytime, but i dunno if thats entirely true or not. The advantage to having both would be that in the beginning the lead wieghts would do the balancing and the beads would just disperse in the tire to maintain a balanced wheel, as i go offroad and rip off a lug, wear down the tire etc, the beads will compensate for that leaving the majority of the balance to the lead wieghts. The final desicion factor is that the beads cost me about 160 bucks to put em in only a week and half ago. So it would really hurt to pay another 160 to have them removed and then i'd have to pay for the labor of dismounting five tires, remounting five tires, and balancing five tires. If i leave them in i only have to pay for balancing five tires. Anyway, in the past, i had a four wheel drive shop balance the heavy mudders with lead weight and never had an issue until it was time to rebalance them from wear. The internal stuff sounds great, but hasn't won me over entirely. for the future for me, i'll just lead weight balance them and i'll have it done at a four wheel drive shop where adding as much as 12 ounces to a wheel isn't entirely out of the ordinary. good luck

 

Go to a tire shop that has a Hunter GPS9700 Road Force Balancer. I just had mine done this past week and it did an incredible job, using clamp-on rim weights on the inside lip and stick-on weights on the inner wheel near the outside face. This gives a dynamic balance which accounts for lateral as well as static imbalance. I had a bad wobble between 30 & 40 mph and having them balanced completely solved that problem. It can handle up to a 37x12.50 (depending on wheel offset), though some shops won't admit to that because they don't want to fool with it. If you go to Hunter's website and navagate to the GPS9700 machine you can do a search by zip code to find a shop near you who uses one. My shop only charged me $20 total! Usually they charge $10 per tire/wheel. Good luck.

 

I haven't used them yet myself, but folks in my club rave about using Dynabeads or the less expensive route, Airsoft pellets.

"Added Airsoft pellets and now it's like riding on glass" to quote one of our members.

One clear advantage to the pellets is if you like playing on the rocks. I've already knocked weight off my wheels a couple times. Pellets eliminates that problem 100%!

Google it to find feedback from more experienced wheelers.


Soon as I upgrade my wheels/tires this is the route I'm gonna take.

 

Won't an internal balance product affect the 08 tire pressure monitering system?

 

Another plug for Toyo tires. Probably jinxing myself and not saying I'll never have to of course, but for the FIRST time in 30 yrs, on self-mounted 35" Toyo OC MT's on AEV Beadlocks, I've driven around 400 miles with "no" balancing at all. TPMS working fine and there's no vibration, wobble, pull, etc., at any speed (0-80) - so far...

...and no, haven't air'd down or off-roaded yet either nor was the valve stem mounted where the yellow circle is on the tire sidewall (lightest part of tire I read somewhere in this or similar thread) ...now I know! With no tire related issues and not relishing R&R'ing/torqueing 24 bolts per wheel just to slide the tires around a quarter turn - I'll use that tidbit of tire info "next" time