best locker?
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: cincinnati oh
best locker?
i have a 2010 auto sahara, im adding 5.13's and 35's. im considering doing front and rear lockers at the same time as gears. How neccasary are the lockers? and what is the best brand?
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Osceola, IN
If you are wondering how necessary they are you probably don't need them. That said I would recommend a selectable locker since you will spend most of your time on the road. The Auburn Ected would be my choice since it gives limited slip action for your Ohio snow/ice regular road driving and is electrically lockable for hills and mud that you would encounter in your natural habitat(Ohio). A front locker is great for rocks and things you would encounter out West but not a lot of use in your terrain. Definitely go with a selectable rear locker of some kind.
Last edited by mediocre69; Jul 13, 2010 at 04:50 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Stuttgart, Germany
Well, to reiterate what a few people have said and a few thoughts of my own...
If you don't know how necessary they are, then you probably aren't wheeling hard enough to really merit spending the money on them. If this is the case, then spend your money elsewhere. If you still really want to have them just because you think you might need them in the future or just because you want to have them, then you probably want to go with a selectable locker; that way, you can still run open diffs. Or, you may want to look in the direction of a limited slip like a Trutrac, which may actually be a better direction to go.
As far as brand goes, well, there really is no best brand, it is the best for you and your driving style. Each have their good and bad sides. ARB is pretty much the standard in selectable lockers, but that doesn't mean it is the best. The air lines can become problematic depending on where and how you wheel. They are also expensive, especially when you consider you now need an on board air system to make them work. Detroits are great, and very tough, but have their weaknesses as well - and you definitely want HD axle shafts to with them (read through their warranty, especially the part about sudden unloading, i.e. breaking an axle shaft). Also, they take a bit of getting used to for daily driving, though the soft lockers are supposed to be much better, though I have only had the old style. The OX lockers are really stout, as is the activation cable, but it needs to be set up right or you will only be complaining about them. Lunchbox lockers are generally the cheapest route, but, IMO aren't up to par with a real selectable or auto locker.
So, as I sit here and type, I am thinking that you are probably somewhat new to all this and don't spend that much time off road and probably aren't hammering through things that leave permanent scars on the Jeep. So, I think if this is your case, I would probably lean towards the Trutrac. They are virtually unnoticeable for daily driving, work together real well with the traction control, and will give you that edge over an open diff - and if you learn how to brake to use them to their full potential, are almost as good as a locker. However, I think, you may want to save a few pennies and invest in something else. You can always go back and put in a locker, but, it's not a bad idea to do it all at once, after all, if its already apart...
Anyway, determine your driving habits and try to break it down to spool, selectable, auto, LSD, or open. Then figure out what your wallet can handle, read up on what people had to say about them, or ask a question to those that have the one you are interested in.
If you don't know how necessary they are, then you probably aren't wheeling hard enough to really merit spending the money on them. If this is the case, then spend your money elsewhere. If you still really want to have them just because you think you might need them in the future or just because you want to have them, then you probably want to go with a selectable locker; that way, you can still run open diffs. Or, you may want to look in the direction of a limited slip like a Trutrac, which may actually be a better direction to go.
As far as brand goes, well, there really is no best brand, it is the best for you and your driving style. Each have their good and bad sides. ARB is pretty much the standard in selectable lockers, but that doesn't mean it is the best. The air lines can become problematic depending on where and how you wheel. They are also expensive, especially when you consider you now need an on board air system to make them work. Detroits are great, and very tough, but have their weaknesses as well - and you definitely want HD axle shafts to with them (read through their warranty, especially the part about sudden unloading, i.e. breaking an axle shaft). Also, they take a bit of getting used to for daily driving, though the soft lockers are supposed to be much better, though I have only had the old style. The OX lockers are really stout, as is the activation cable, but it needs to be set up right or you will only be complaining about them. Lunchbox lockers are generally the cheapest route, but, IMO aren't up to par with a real selectable or auto locker.
So, as I sit here and type, I am thinking that you are probably somewhat new to all this and don't spend that much time off road and probably aren't hammering through things that leave permanent scars on the Jeep. So, I think if this is your case, I would probably lean towards the Trutrac. They are virtually unnoticeable for daily driving, work together real well with the traction control, and will give you that edge over an open diff - and if you learn how to brake to use them to their full potential, are almost as good as a locker. However, I think, you may want to save a few pennies and invest in something else. You can always go back and put in a locker, but, it's not a bad idea to do it all at once, after all, if its already apart...
Anyway, determine your driving habits and try to break it down to spool, selectable, auto, LSD, or open. Then figure out what your wallet can handle, read up on what people had to say about them, or ask a question to those that have the one you are interested in.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: jackson,ms
I have a detroit in the rear and an arb up front. I love my detroit, but we don't have ice or snow down here. My arb works great and has not let me down yet, but however I know the detroit is either going to work or break. The arb can let you for numerous of reasons. I ran an aussie locker in my 30 when I had it and for the price you can't beat it. I wheeled the hell out of it and it held up fine.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 148
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From: Osceola, IN
I think an almost always locked locker like the Detroit locker would be just dangerous on the road with ice and snow. Either a selectable locker (electric or air), a good limited slip like the true trac or a combination like the Ected would be the best option.
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
As others have stated, 'best' is subjective, but in categories there are brands and designs that are better than others.
Auto locker- This is a locking differential that is always locked unless an outside tire needs to overspeed to navigate a corner. In this situation the outside axle is unlocked and the rig is driven by the inside axle. Tire circumference and suspension set up are crucial to good road manners in a rear axle. I can give specifics on how to improve road manners if needed.
Lockers in this category include: Detroit Locker, Grizzly Locker (Detroit Locker near copy made overseas by Yukon/Randy's R&P), Lock Right, Power Trax No-Slip, E-Z Locker, Aussie Locker and Yukon/Randy's Spartan Locker. The Detroit and Grizzly are full case lockers and the rest are 'lunch box' lockers. 'Lunch box' refers to the box shape that the lockers are sold in. Auto Lockers are invisible in front axle applications in 2 WD. In 4WD they can tax your steering but are a very nice addition.
Unlike a full case auto locker, the lunch box locker (except a Power Trax No-Slip) will wear out over time. The internal teeth of the locker will round and eventually cause failure. The lunch box style locker is also noisier than a Detroit Locker (but similar to a Grizzly) and is much more prone to failure. A lunch box locker retains the factory case and doesn't require a professional installation. The factory case is a weak spot (as is the cross pin) and failures are fairly common. For this reason I don't usually recommend Lunch box lockers for a rear application unless they are a temporary addition.
The Detroit Locker can be damaged if you break an axle shaft. For some people it happens with the first broken shaft and for others they might break a dozen and never see any damage. Use good DOMESTIC 4340 axle shafts for best results.
In the Auto locker category the Detroit Locker, Aussie and Lock Rights are your best options.
Selectable Lockers- This is a differential that can changed be from open (or limited slip in the case of the Ected) to fully locked (or semi locked- also the Ected) by the operator from the drivers seat. Actuation can be achieved by 12v power, air or cable. These products have superior road manners when compared to an auto locker.
Lockers in this category include, ARB, Auburn Ected, Eaton ELocker, OX locker and Zip Locker (a overseas copy of an old design ARB made by Yukon/Randy's R&P).
ARB is still the standard. While they are more prone to failure due to poor installation, ARBs remain on the top of the heap. They lock and unlock very quickly and are very strong.
The Eaton ELocker is right up there with ARB with their Dana 30 (and 35) model but the ELocker has an edge due to its 12V actuation. Testing has shown the ELocker to be equal to ARB in strength and ease of actuation. The other ELocker models have an inferior 2 pinion design that is much weaker than their comparable ARB. Their actuation method, although also 12V, is different than the Dana 30 version and is prone to failure.
The OX locker is very strong but still suffers from a poor actuation method. The cable actuation can be very good or very bad depending on the user. OX also provides an air or electric actuation method but they aren't yet a great option. Actuation is also much more cumbersome than the competitors. While usually fairly easy to lock, sometimes unlocking them can be a real chore.
The Auburn Ected looks great on paper but the actual function is poor when compared to the others. This unit is based on a clutch driven limited slip design and doesn't truly 'lock'. When 'locked', extra pressure is given to the clutches and it will act locked unless there is enough engine torque and traction to overcome the clutch pressure. Additionally, over time, the clutches will wear and lock up will be even less effective. If that wasn't bad enough, the internal side gear design has very little axle spline engagement in the LSD mode and axle shafts have been getting the splines stripped. Auburn is working on a new Ected model that is said to address these issues.
The Zip Locker is a copy of an old ARB design and is a poor substitute for the new ARB. Cost is very close to the ARB but there isn't any benefit.
The best part of a selectable locker is also the worst part- YOU must make the choice. If you forget to make the choice it can sometimes lead to a bad situation. A selectable locker up front will be harder to steer (while locked) than an auto locker. Steering box and pump upgrades should be considered for best operation with this product.
In the selectable locker category the ARB and the Dana 30 ELockers are the best options.
Spools were mentioned also as an option to be considered.
Spools are a solid lock between the R&P and the axle shaft. The function can be obtained by installing a differential replacement- a spool, by installing a locking block inside the factory case (called a mini spool) and by welding up the internals of the factory differential. All of these methods work exactly alike but an actual spool is stronger and not prone to failure.
While a spool does provide very consistent, reliable traction, it also places a huge amount of additional stress on your axle shafts during street driving and causes excessive rear tire wear. Off road, a rear spool will greatly increase your turning radius.
For some a spool could be a good option but for 90% of the wheeling world it's a bad choice.
Auto locker- This is a locking differential that is always locked unless an outside tire needs to overspeed to navigate a corner. In this situation the outside axle is unlocked and the rig is driven by the inside axle. Tire circumference and suspension set up are crucial to good road manners in a rear axle. I can give specifics on how to improve road manners if needed.
Lockers in this category include: Detroit Locker, Grizzly Locker (Detroit Locker near copy made overseas by Yukon/Randy's R&P), Lock Right, Power Trax No-Slip, E-Z Locker, Aussie Locker and Yukon/Randy's Spartan Locker. The Detroit and Grizzly are full case lockers and the rest are 'lunch box' lockers. 'Lunch box' refers to the box shape that the lockers are sold in. Auto Lockers are invisible in front axle applications in 2 WD. In 4WD they can tax your steering but are a very nice addition.
Unlike a full case auto locker, the lunch box locker (except a Power Trax No-Slip) will wear out over time. The internal teeth of the locker will round and eventually cause failure. The lunch box style locker is also noisier than a Detroit Locker (but similar to a Grizzly) and is much more prone to failure. A lunch box locker retains the factory case and doesn't require a professional installation. The factory case is a weak spot (as is the cross pin) and failures are fairly common. For this reason I don't usually recommend Lunch box lockers for a rear application unless they are a temporary addition.
The Detroit Locker can be damaged if you break an axle shaft. For some people it happens with the first broken shaft and for others they might break a dozen and never see any damage. Use good DOMESTIC 4340 axle shafts for best results.
In the Auto locker category the Detroit Locker, Aussie and Lock Rights are your best options.
Selectable Lockers- This is a differential that can changed be from open (or limited slip in the case of the Ected) to fully locked (or semi locked- also the Ected) by the operator from the drivers seat. Actuation can be achieved by 12v power, air or cable. These products have superior road manners when compared to an auto locker.
Lockers in this category include, ARB, Auburn Ected, Eaton ELocker, OX locker and Zip Locker (a overseas copy of an old design ARB made by Yukon/Randy's R&P).
ARB is still the standard. While they are more prone to failure due to poor installation, ARBs remain on the top of the heap. They lock and unlock very quickly and are very strong.
The Eaton ELocker is right up there with ARB with their Dana 30 (and 35) model but the ELocker has an edge due to its 12V actuation. Testing has shown the ELocker to be equal to ARB in strength and ease of actuation. The other ELocker models have an inferior 2 pinion design that is much weaker than their comparable ARB. Their actuation method, although also 12V, is different than the Dana 30 version and is prone to failure.
The OX locker is very strong but still suffers from a poor actuation method. The cable actuation can be very good or very bad depending on the user. OX also provides an air or electric actuation method but they aren't yet a great option. Actuation is also much more cumbersome than the competitors. While usually fairly easy to lock, sometimes unlocking them can be a real chore.
The Auburn Ected looks great on paper but the actual function is poor when compared to the others. This unit is based on a clutch driven limited slip design and doesn't truly 'lock'. When 'locked', extra pressure is given to the clutches and it will act locked unless there is enough engine torque and traction to overcome the clutch pressure. Additionally, over time, the clutches will wear and lock up will be even less effective. If that wasn't bad enough, the internal side gear design has very little axle spline engagement in the LSD mode and axle shafts have been getting the splines stripped. Auburn is working on a new Ected model that is said to address these issues.
The Zip Locker is a copy of an old ARB design and is a poor substitute for the new ARB. Cost is very close to the ARB but there isn't any benefit.
The best part of a selectable locker is also the worst part- YOU must make the choice. If you forget to make the choice it can sometimes lead to a bad situation. A selectable locker up front will be harder to steer (while locked) than an auto locker. Steering box and pump upgrades should be considered for best operation with this product.
In the selectable locker category the ARB and the Dana 30 ELockers are the best options.
Spools were mentioned also as an option to be considered.
Spools are a solid lock between the R&P and the axle shaft. The function can be obtained by installing a differential replacement- a spool, by installing a locking block inside the factory case (called a mini spool) and by welding up the internals of the factory differential. All of these methods work exactly alike but an actual spool is stronger and not prone to failure.
While a spool does provide very consistent, reliable traction, it also places a huge amount of additional stress on your axle shafts during street driving and causes excessive rear tire wear. Off road, a rear spool will greatly increase your turning radius.
For some a spool could be a good option but for 90% of the wheeling world it's a bad choice.
Last edited by Dynatrac; Jul 29, 2010 at 08:36 AM.
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
Check here- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0Wss...eature=related
I guess I don't understand why you would want to buy a unit that is a copy of an outdated design, is weaker than the original and is so closely priced to the original
To each their own
I guess I don't understand why you would want to buy a unit that is a copy of an outdated design, is weaker than the original and is so closely priced to the original
To each their own
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 1
From: Flyover Country
I've got a massaged Dana 30 front axle that -just today- I ordered an Aussie for through Northridge.
If I hate it, I'll live with it until spring, pull the 30 and part it out (RCVs and Pro Steers as well as a sleeved, gusseted housing should have some resale value).
Then I'll get a PR44, festooned with all the bells and whistles.
Time will tell I guess. I hope the Aussie works for me.
If I hate it, I'll live with it until spring, pull the 30 and part it out (RCVs and Pro Steers as well as a sleeved, gusseted housing should have some resale value).
Then I'll get a PR44, festooned with all the bells and whistles.
Time will tell I guess. I hope the Aussie works for me.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 1
From: Flyover Country
Auto locker- This is a locking differential that is always locked unless an outside tire needs to overspeed to navigate a corner. In this situation the outside axle is unlocked and the rig is driven by the inside axle. Tire circumference and suspension set up are crucial to good road manners in a rear axle. I can give specifics on how to improve road manners if needed.
Psst, Dyna, I sent you a PM asking for input on the Aussie (which I've already ordered) for my application, but feel free to reply here if for no other purpose than the edification of other readers.
Thank you!