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Bolt size and grade

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #11  
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I used 9/16 on my trackbars grade 8. I also got shouldered ones so they don't chew up the axle mount like the stock ones. I also use blue loctite, I am not sure if that is nessecary?

Also how do you know when a bolt is not torquing anymore?
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Hellbound13
I used 9/16 on my trackbars grade 8. I also got shouldered ones so they don't chew up the axle mount like the stock ones. I also use blue loctite, I am not sure if that is nessecary?

Also how do you know when a bolt is not torquing anymore?
When you feel like it's not tightening down. If your torquing some thing to 125ftlbs and the torque wrench keeps turning past a point you'd ussually be straining at to hit 125.Kinda hard to describe. Continue and you break the bolt, wich if it wouldn't torque, needed replacing anyway.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:51 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
When you feel like it's not tightening down. If your torquing some thing to 125ftlbs and the torque wrench keeps turning past a point you'd ussually be straining at to hit 125.Kinda hard to describe. Continue and you break the bolt, wich if it wouldn't torque, needed replacing anyway.

If all you can find is course thread grade 8 can you use it, or do you have to use fine thread. If you use course thread, can you put on a lock washer? Im not trying to go cheap, just dont have much for resources out here in western GA.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #14  
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If you're not in too much of a rush you could check out the web - I just used Google and found a few likely looking on line sites (searched on Bolts are us) - thinking about it that might be the answer for the guy who was looking for mirror bolts (and me) as well.

It'll take a bit longer to get to you but will probably save you a lot of time if you don't have an obvious local store to get them from.

Steve
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 07:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Ryanc
If all you can find is course thread grade 8 can you use it, or do you have to use fine thread. If you use course thread, can you put on a lock washer? Im not trying to go cheap, just dont have much for resources out here in western GA.
Put a lock nut and washer on it and you'll be good. To me the standard grade 8's take the torque way better than the metric equivalents from the factory. Never had a prob with the front OEMS but the rears, another story.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 03:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Put a lock nut and washer on it and you'll be good. To me the standard grade 8's take the torque way better than the metric equivalents from the factory. Never had a prob with the front OEMS but the rears, another story.
Yeah, you and me both, I have about had it. Damn things are grinding through my axle mounts, just wont torque to spec. I have had much more luck using grade 8, get to torque soo much faster.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 04:41 AM
  #17  
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Leave the lock washers alone. You don't need them, its the totally wrong application. If properly torqued, the bolts will hold way better than a lock washer can. You have to remember the lock washer only works if the bolt is not bolted down all the way so that it can act as a spring. They really need to come up with another name for a lock washer, because the name seems to give it way more credit than it deserves.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 07:14 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Ryanc
Yeah, you and me both, I have about had it. Damn things are grinding through my axle mounts, just wont torque to spec. I have had much more luck using grade 8, get to torque soo much faster.
Yep same here. Wallowed out both front and rear. Replaced with grade 8 and had to weld washers to the holes.

I used shouldered bolts but could only find partially shouldered. I hope thats ok.
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