Oh joy, I can't wait.... So you removed the bolts from the interior to release the bracket, but then you had to remove the booster from the bracket itself to get it out? I thought I recalled from that other threat that you had to gently bend one of the lines to get it to line up with the new MC, but memory is fuzzy at the moment. I'm sure I'll find this out soon too. Brake kit arrives tomorrow, so this is probably weekend business for me.

 

There's a clip that connects the brake booster to the pedal. You have to remove that. There are 4 bolts that hold the bb to the engine compartment mounting plate that you might get to from the cab. In the engine compartment, there are 4 nuts which hold the mounting plate to the fire wall. If you remove the mc then move the wiring out of the way, you should be able to get to all 4 nuts (13mm I believe, deep socket). Much easier on the back too. Don't loose the rubber washer that goes on the mc to the bb.

 

For what it's worth, I wrapped up my Red Neck Ram install and started on the Crown brakes tonight. Didn't take long to see I too will have to shim these brackets. Will need to run to Ace tomorrow. Get what ya pay for, but $350 was a lot more attractive than the TF kit. Figured I'd get the axle portion installed and then jack with the booster/MC.

Hard to take a picture on the same plane as both sides of the bracket, but definitely much larger gap on the inside vs. outer side of the rotor -



Also, front factory pads with 86k miles on em, over half of which was with 37s -

 

Finished installing the kit last night. I tried to shim the caliper bracket with washers, except all that was going to do was shift the larger gap from one side to the other rather than split the difference. Decided to just install as-is without shimming. There's enough clearance, albeit less than desired, and the way the pads clip in seems like everything should be ok. Next up is messing with the MC/booster.

 

Knowing what you now know...any regrets with the route you went?

 

I asked pcmasten the same thing. No, I have no regrets yet. I mean, I paid $350 (eBay direct from Crown's offroad division), so can't complain. Would I like the caliper brackets to be spaced better? Sure, but the one side has enough clearance that it's not an issue that I can tell. You definitely want to pair the kit with the J8 master cylinder and booster.

 

After 8,696 miles my Z36 pads are almost toast (1/16” remain) rotated my tires with my oil change yesterday and my rear pads are just about shot. Another bandaid brake pad replacement in store this weekend. Had the Z16 Pads before I installed the Z36, both pads lasted less than 10K.

 

10k miles? That's unfortunate and super short lifespan. I don't have an exact number but I know I've put more than 10k on mine. That being said, I know replacing them within 12 months is likely and I think I'm going to go with the Raybestos pads that Mr. T. has been recommending. They're $48 on Amazon and I know Rock Auto has them as well. I'd be contacting PowerStop to see what their answer is on the short lifespan. The z16 brakes I can see chewing up a little faster but the z36 are the towing/ heavy duty brakes.

 

Does anybody have all the parts numbers for the mopar big brake kit. looking for bracket, rotor, calipar numbers.