DJ1

he's upgrading to a 1350 so it won't matter either way lol

gab24m3

Thank you Tweak and everyone else. Learned a few things, which is what the forum is all about. Now with that last link, I'd prefer to replace slip yoke over welding the broken piece and sell the Coast 1310 for some cash, then upgrading for Christmas.

TweakJK

Yea you arent welding that, its just not an option. I think whoever suggested that didnt know what part they were looking at.

1310 is plenty strong, I still run one in the front and I break dana 60 stub shafts with it, up to you. I run an adams 1350 in the rear and well.... I will break a 14 bolt axle shaft before that thing goes.

jchappies

If your running 35in tires or smaller you will want a 1310 u-joint. It is your weak point so you don't tear up your gears and axles.

TweakJK

A 1310 ujoint will not be a weak point in a dana 44 or 30. Manufacturers LOVE to put the "1350 recommended for 37" and up tires" because people like to see that, and people like to "know" that they are ordering the right thing.

Here's a dana 60 stub shaft that I broke with a tom woods 1310, yea it was only a 30 spline dana spicer. You can totally break ujoints with a dana 30 or 44, but I wouldnt call it the weak point. A dana 30 will always have the tiny ring gear as the most obvious weak point.

There was no bouncing going on when it broke, just a 40" tire that was in a situation that refused to allow rotation. Simply put, a spicer 1310 ujoint took more torque than the stub could handle, multiplied by 5.38 of course.

gab24m3

I have 40's with 5.38's too. Driveshaft is off but slip yoke isn't complying.

DJ1

I didn't think that slip yoke would come off easy. That sub-assembly comes in 2 pieces - the yoke welded to the small slip tube and a collar. I took a look at my Adams and it looks like they press-fit the yoke/tube into the collar. Not sure if Coast does the same or if they actually weld it to the collar.

Example. These guys hammered the sh*t out of it to get it off....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BQUyFOKQY
Then let's say you were able to get the bad one off and replace it yourself. The slip-yoke replacement I'm betting isn't powdercoated black. So now you either have to get it powdercoated or try selling a 1310 shaft that was clearly replaced with a 3rd party slip-yoke. At least if you send it back to Coast then try to resell it, it'll be a much easier sell.

my 2 cents...

TweakJK

Sometimes they come off easy, sometimes they dont. I rebuilt an F350 shaft that took some work to pull off. It really depends on how well it was greased and whether or not your idiot buddy leaves it in the back of his truck and it rolls off on the street and tears up the splines.

lkjk

To be clear, you're advocating for a 1310, even with 40s?

TweakJK

I am advocating that the 1310 is a hell of a lot stronger than people make it out to be. 99% of jeeps will be just fine with a 1310. When I bought the shaft, 37's were my goal. Now that I am on tons and 40" sticky treps and still have not managed to break it, I am impressed.

I should upgrade to 1350, as I now have 35 spline chromoly shafts. It is definitely my weak point. I will likely just swap out my pinion yoke, ujoint, and slip yoke for 1350 parts.