Jet Streem

Anyone know of or have the time to provide a rundown on what should be reasonably upgraded when going to 35" tires and why? I've read a bit, so I know context is important. 2017 Rubicon 2D, auto 3.73. daily driver / weekend warrior. Overlanding, taking it easy. So far I've narrowed it down to: 2-2.5" Lift (and associated parts), regear axle 4.56, front and rear chromoly, front axle sleeve and gusset, big brakes.
Anything else that I should consider? Cheers.

TheDirtman

You don't get need big brakes for 35's, I would not worry about the axel shafts either. No sleeves or so called trusses. Really you could just go with flat fenders and not touch the suspension. You will need different wheels with less back spacing or some wheel adapters to keep thing from rubbing. How much gear (#'s) are you carrying when you "overland"?

karls10jk

I agree, the whole axle shaft thing is way overkill. I replaced mine because I bent a flange out in the rocks....probably bouncing the back end a little bit more than I should have trying to get over a rock.

The other thing would be to put money to the side for ball joints and a high quality tire carrier. You'll need the ball joints sooner than with a smaller diameter tire. The tire carrier is pretty self-explanatory. Folks think they can get by on the stock carrier and you can for a little while but it shouldn't be a long term solution. I run a carrier that is greaseable so it's something else to maintain when I'm doing ball joints and steering components. With it being greaseable, I expect it to outlast other tire solutions.

TheDirtman

I would just delete the tire carrier and get on board air and a plug kit. That is unless you are driving hundreds of miles to nowhere on your overlanding trips

Jet Streem

Ok. I kinda like the idea of deleting the tire carrier, I will think on that or an upgrade. As far as weight, I plan on installing a steel security deck and steel rear fender. Front fender is already steel with rope smitty winch. Then maybe 150-200 lbs of gear including water and a fuel can, mostly just 1-2 day trips, or a trip up the mountains to less crowded hiking spots. So what you guys recommend is regear and beefier ball joints? I guess I read about some cost saving by doing the axle upgrade and brakes at the same time as regearing, and it sounded like a good idea to prevent breaking something with the bigger tires if I have a "hold my beer" moment, but if its not really needed I would be happy not to spend the money on it. I really like the look of flat fenders and planned on doing it anyway. Onboard air and plug kit added to the list!

hivoltagedriver

You won't hate the bigger brakes if you go that route. Just not necessary with 35s. Watch your wheel and tire weight when you are selecting them, and you may not end up adding much. I did end up bending an rear axle flange on my 2012 with only 35's, but I play in the rocks. 3.73s will work, 4.10s are what I ran because that's what I had and they were fine. 4.56s would be perfect. I agree with the on-board compressor as well. You will find all kinds of uses for it.

Tactical_Geek

I'm also looking at 35s. I have a 2.5" lift right now and my stock tires look tiny. I also mainly drive on sand so I won't be going with MTs and will stick with ATs which tend to be a hair lighter in most cases. I have 3.73s from the factory but looking to upgrade to 4.88s because I have the 3.8 & auto trans.

karls10jk

Being just north of Raleigh, AT's and 3.73's are fine. That's what I use at URE. 2.5", flat flares, and 35's.