Bulging rear Coil
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 173
Likes: 37
From: North Eastern, Maryland
EHarris
What length is your current sway bar end link and what is your lift? I ask because our lift was suppose to have been 1.5 but we ended up at 2.75 this created an issue with the lift kits supplied links, they were too long. In order to temp correct this we simply mounted a set of the rear links on the front of the jeep. we drove like this for 1 year until the jeep settled. The jeep has finally settled without nay coil bulging. One issue we had while having the rear link on the front of the jeep was we kept hearing a knocking sound while driving over humps, it turns out that the link was hitting the round frame tube (forward) and the coil perch (rear). This meant the link is too long and has too much top end articulation. In order to correct this JKS suggest that your end link be either / within a +5 / -5 range to being level with the jeeps frame. Our 8.5 link is way above the +5 range so we had to lower it. But because out jeep has an oddball lift, it was difficult to locate a link that I could adjust to bring the sway bar back to near level or just below. Selected the Teraflex 4'' adjustable links which at it's lowest setting measures 7.5inchs. Now that we've got the correct links on the jeep there's no more knocking.. but the teraflex links are rusting after only one month of use. So we'll follow up on the JKS links very soon as these can have the same or even less than 7.0 inch adjustment. The only other option was to utilize a sway bar block spacer I created back in 2014. This aluminum spacer is placed/bolted on both forward sway bar mounting connections. this lifts the sway bar off the frame so one can use the shorter /factory sway links.
What length is your current sway bar end link and what is your lift? I ask because our lift was suppose to have been 1.5 but we ended up at 2.75 this created an issue with the lift kits supplied links, they were too long. In order to temp correct this we simply mounted a set of the rear links on the front of the jeep. we drove like this for 1 year until the jeep settled. The jeep has finally settled without nay coil bulging. One issue we had while having the rear link on the front of the jeep was we kept hearing a knocking sound while driving over humps, it turns out that the link was hitting the round frame tube (forward) and the coil perch (rear). This meant the link is too long and has too much top end articulation. In order to correct this JKS suggest that your end link be either / within a +5 / -5 range to being level with the jeeps frame. Our 8.5 link is way above the +5 range so we had to lower it. But because out jeep has an oddball lift, it was difficult to locate a link that I could adjust to bring the sway bar back to near level or just below. Selected the Teraflex 4'' adjustable links which at it's lowest setting measures 7.5inchs. Now that we've got the correct links on the jeep there's no more knocking.. but the teraflex links are rusting after only one month of use. So we'll follow up on the JKS links very soon as these can have the same or even less than 7.0 inch adjustment. The only other option was to utilize a sway bar block spacer I created back in 2014. This aluminum spacer is placed/bolted on both forward sway bar mounting connections. this lifts the sway bar off the frame so one can use the shorter /factory sway links.
Last edited by OscarMlke; Feb 10, 2021 at 02:55 AM.
JK Jedi
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 486
From: Knoxville
AEV did something similar with a bracket to raise the front mounts so if others down the road want to pursue a similar option, that's a viable route.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 79
From: HB, So Cal
EHarris
What length is your current sway bar end link and what is your lift? I ask because our lift was suppose to have been 1.5 but we ended up at 2.75 this created an issue with the lift kits supplied links, they were too long. In order to temp correct this we simply mounted a set of the rear links on the front of the jeep. we drove like this for 1 year until the jeep settled. The jeep has finally settled without nay coil bulging. One issue we had while having the rear link on the front of the jeep was we kept hearing a knocking sound while driving over humps, it turns out that the link was hitting the round frame tube (forward) and the coil perch (rear). This meant the link is too long and has too much top end articulation. In order to correct this JKS suggest that your end link be either / within a +5 / -5 range to being level with the jeeps frame. Our 8.5 link is way above the +5 range so we had to lower it. But because out jeep has an oddball lift, it was difficult to locate a link that I could adjust to bring the sway bar back to near level or just below. Selected the Teraflex 4'' adjustable links which at it's lowest setting measures 7.5inchs. Now that we've got the correct links on the jeep there's no more knocking.. but the teraflex links are rusting after only one month of use. So we'll follow up on the JKS links very soon as these can have the same or even less than 7.0 inch adjustment. The only other option was to utilize a sway bar block spacer I created back in 2014. This aluminum spacer is placed/bolted on both forward sway bar mounting connections. this lifts the sway bar off the frame so one can use the shorter /factory sway links.
What length is your current sway bar end link and what is your lift? I ask because our lift was suppose to have been 1.5 but we ended up at 2.75 this created an issue with the lift kits supplied links, they were too long. In order to temp correct this we simply mounted a set of the rear links on the front of the jeep. we drove like this for 1 year until the jeep settled. The jeep has finally settled without nay coil bulging. One issue we had while having the rear link on the front of the jeep was we kept hearing a knocking sound while driving over humps, it turns out that the link was hitting the round frame tube (forward) and the coil perch (rear). This meant the link is too long and has too much top end articulation. In order to correct this JKS suggest that your end link be either / within a +5 / -5 range to being level with the jeeps frame. Our 8.5 link is way above the +5 range so we had to lower it. But because out jeep has an oddball lift, it was difficult to locate a link that I could adjust to bring the sway bar back to near level or just below. Selected the Teraflex 4'' adjustable links which at it's lowest setting measures 7.5inchs. Now that we've got the correct links on the jeep there's no more knocking.. but the teraflex links are rusting after only one month of use. So we'll follow up on the JKS links very soon as these can have the same or even less than 7.0 inch adjustment. The only other option was to utilize a sway bar block spacer I created back in 2014. This aluminum spacer is placed/bolted on both forward sway bar mounting connections. this lifts the sway bar off the frame so one can use the shorter /factory sway links.
I have this and a steering stabilizer left on my list plus maybe a tranny fluid swap.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 79
From: HB, So Cal
I have the process for checking if the fronts are the correct length. Level ground and make the adjustment. Is it the same for the rear? Maybe these need an adjustment and I could be sitting lower on one side slightly because the sway bar is pulling it together? I've never checked these really or looked into this but would they need to be adjusted at all after adding HD coils or a rear bumper with weight for example? I've got some more big trips coming up so I'm prepping it all again.
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,355
Likes: 2,088
From: Willow Park, TX
For a good while I ran "homemade" rear links made out of 1/2" all thread and some eBay rod ends. That rear is much less important than the front IMO. The bar itself bends like spaghetti. The rear links just need to be appropriately sized to keep the bar angled up just a bit. The "beefiness" of the links isn't going to be beneficial at all. I'd argue what is more important is ensuring proper clearance with whatever link/bolt is back there at the bar end, so that it doesn't interfere with your hard brake line as the the bar travels up and down when the jeep flexes.
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,355
Likes: 2,088
From: Willow Park, TX
I learned the hard way by bending a rear hard line into a nice "V". The ends of that rear sway bar will bend up/down with the axle a good bit and as the sway bar end traveled up, the bolt for the link caught the brake line on the way down. Chalked up to another lesson learned. My bolts run the other direction now with the head on the inside (closer to the brake line) and I use thick zip ties to hold the line snug to the frame rail.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 173
Likes: 37
From: North Eastern, Maryland
EHarris
Just wondering about what you said about the JKS are these a clear pass through bushing or is one end a pass through and the other a ball joint. I've had to learn the hard way about the ball joint type links. Going to have to stay away from these as the ball joint will give far beyond the passthrough bushing type. As for the rear links, when on a level surface does the sway bar and links look semi level or normal, cause I think mine are too short they are far past an acceptable range. Just one of those things I never got around to correcting. Still focused on the front end at the moment. But I like hearing positive comments about the pass through JKS links Just making sure that have the bushing sleeves as we're not using these as quicks.
Just wondering about what you said about the JKS are these a clear pass through bushing or is one end a pass through and the other a ball joint. I've had to learn the hard way about the ball joint type links. Going to have to stay away from these as the ball joint will give far beyond the passthrough bushing type. As for the rear links, when on a level surface does the sway bar and links look semi level or normal, cause I think mine are too short they are far past an acceptable range. Just one of those things I never got around to correcting. Still focused on the front end at the moment. But I like hearing positive comments about the pass through JKS links Just making sure that have the bushing sleeves as we're not using these as quicks.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 79
From: HB, So Cal
+1
For a good while I ran "homemade" rear links made out of 1/2" all thread and some eBay rod ends. That rear is much less important than the front IMO. The bar itself bends like spaghetti. The rear links just need to be appropriately sized to keep the bar angled up just a bit. The "beefiness" of the links isn't going to be beneficial at all. I'd argue what is more important is ensuring proper clearance with whatever link/bolt is back there at the bar end, so that it doesn't interfere with your hard brake line as the the bar travels up and down when the jeep flexes.
For a good while I ran "homemade" rear links made out of 1/2" all thread and some eBay rod ends. That rear is much less important than the front IMO. The bar itself bends like spaghetti. The rear links just need to be appropriately sized to keep the bar angled up just a bit. The "beefiness" of the links isn't going to be beneficial at all. I'd argue what is more important is ensuring proper clearance with whatever link/bolt is back there at the bar end, so that it doesn't interfere with your hard brake line as the the bar travels up and down when the jeep flexes.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,981
Likes: 79
From: HB, So Cal
EHarris
Just wondering about what you said about the JKS are these a clear pass through bushing or is one end a pass through and the other a ball joint. I've had to learn the hard way about the ball joint type links. Going to have to stay away from these as the ball joint will give far beyond the passthrough bushing type. As for the rear links, when on a level surface does the sway bar and links look semi level or normal, cause I think mine are too short they are far past an acceptable range. Just one of those things I never got around to correcting. Still focused on the front end at the moment. But I like hearing positive comments about the pass through JKS links Just making sure that have the bushing sleeves as we're not using these as quicks.
Just wondering about what you said about the JKS are these a clear pass through bushing or is one end a pass through and the other a ball joint. I've had to learn the hard way about the ball joint type links. Going to have to stay away from these as the ball joint will give far beyond the passthrough bushing type. As for the rear links, when on a level surface does the sway bar and links look semi level or normal, cause I think mine are too short they are far past an acceptable range. Just one of those things I never got around to correcting. Still focused on the front end at the moment. But I like hearing positive comments about the pass through JKS links Just making sure that have the bushing sleeves as we're not using these as quicks.
https://jksmfg.com/i-13306776-quicke...-6-0-lift.html
While you can disconnect them, I rarely ever do. You can leave in the pins or replace with some type of nut and bolt combo too I'm sure. But i've never had an issue with a pin falling out or anything.
