SheepyTheJKU

Hey guys, new to posting. Jeep is about 1 year old now and the mods are about to start happening. Im pretty confident I want to go with a MetalCloak Game Changer lift but I will not be able to buy it all at once. Right now I am adding Rubicon Recon springs and longer shocks for a ~2" budget boost to also be able to clear bigger tires. Bumpers and Fenders will also help that. As far as the suspension goes, what do you guys suggest buying "part by part" out of the game changer kit (or just in general), to end up with a full on lift?


Thanks in Advance

resharp001

Since you are asking about Metalcloak in particular, I’ll try to stay on topic with my post. The way I interpret this is you want to stay on these recon springs, and start acquiring bits and pieces of this lift along the way so you can spread the cost out. Unfortunately the important parts are mainly going to be in a lump purchase as everything is somewhat connected. Ie, you don’t need longer sway bar links, adjustable TBs and such until you achieve some actual lift height. Maybe you should shoot for the “Overland Elite” kit @ $1269 as a starting point, adding shocks of your choosing, then aim to add control arms later down the road along with the other set of brake lines and the front shock outboard brackets. I’m not gonna get in to the debate of whether or not it’s in your best interest to go 3.5” (which I think you mentioned in the other thread), but if you do, you’d really want to add a higher steer kit (flipped DL) and budget for a new front drive shaft.

https://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Wrangl...tem-p/7124.htm

I think you're better off just saving up funds until you can make a lump purchase personally. It's not cheap to do a proper lift, so realize it will probably cost you more than you're expecting.

SheepyTheJKU

Thanks for the input, definitely what I want to do. I guess the main thing would be, with the poor mans lift I currently have, are there any links or joints I can or should consider replacing in the mean time to make sure it performs well and doesn't break anything? From my research, I think it should be fine just wanted to ask the experts.

resharp001

The thing that could be most impactful....depending on the amount of lift those springs gave you, is caster. Any lift is going to decrease your caster a bit. If it's dropped it enough, you might invest in some control arm geobrackets for the time being. Those brackets would eat in to your ground clearance a bit, but provide a better pavement drive. You might measure to see what actual lift you've netted. These are factory measurements -



The other thing that happens when you lift is the front axle will shift a bit to the driver's side, and the rear to the passenger side (since the TB's that tie the frame to the axle have not changed lengths). If the lift isn't much, the axle likely hasn't shifted enough to really be noticeable. that is the main reason you need adjustable TBs when lifting. You probably haven't netted enough lift to cause a problem with your sway bar links, but you generally want those sway bars angled up a couple degrees (rather than angled down). I didn't see you mention if this was a rubicon or not. If not, you might want to look at some quick disconnects for the front sway bar anyhow....just make sure to get something adjustable within the range you'd need later down the road as well.

SheepyTheJKU

Thanks for this, I was just going to do the old fashioned tape on bumper measure to the ground lift measurement. I just measured and this is pretty accurate best I can measure. BTW, not a rubicon, Unlimited Sport S, no sway bar disconnects.... I really appreciate the input.

Mike H.

My piece by piece went like this;
First, let me state I knew I was going to end up at 3.5" lift, and that resulted in my decisions along the way.
- Budget boost, cheap adjustable front track bar and 35x12.50-17 tires/wheels.
Ran it like this for about a month, but...
Hated what that did to gearing was (4.10's from the factory), so, 5.13's went in.
With the increase in rpms from the 5.13's driveline vibrations became more pronounced.
- Double cardan driveshafts front and rear to get rid of vibrations.
Because double cardan driveshafts require pinion angle be revised...
- MC adjustable upper control arms to dial in pinion(rear) and caster (front).
Now the rig drove straight as an arrow and had no vibrations.
Went wheeling.
Bent the stock front tie rod, which made me question the rest of the steering linkage.
- 7075 alum. tie rod (LetzRoll), draglink (Synergy) trackbar (Synergy) and steering box brace (Synergy).
Now the rig drove better than ever.
Went wheeling some more...
Hated the idea of a big heavy 35" tire hanging of sheet metal, and was starting to use up the rear bumper.
- Rear bumper (Poison Spyder) with tire carrier.
Went wheeling some more...
Saw some guys rip the rear shock mounts off the axle.
- Rear lower shock mount relocation and skid set up (Synergy).
Went wheeling some more...
Realized just how low the bellies are on these rigs are (even 2dr's), used up the stock rock rails and tore up the front bumper.
- Full under armor (Synergy HD and PS evap), rock rails (PS) and a front bumper (PS). Protect the underside and add clearance up front.
Did some more wheeling and realized that with the weight of the armor, my 2.5" budget boost was more like a 1.5" budget boost. Was really using the armor, which I was fine with, but, at times being so low was a hindrance.
- 3.5" coils (MC) and matching shocks (OME) lower control arms (MC) rear track bar and bracket (MC), Artec front truss with raised draglink.
The rig was awesome except, remember that raised rear shock mount setup? Now I was bottoming the "proper length" shocks due to the raised mount/compressed shock length.
- Rear upper shock mount relocation kit (Synergy).
Was starting to get into some really "interesting" spots off road...
And, while locked could not turn. For a while it was no big deal, then came a situation when I was truly in a frightening situation... tight/steep switchback with no ability for recover, rig standing on it's nose, one front tire in the air, off camber... cliff ahead... could not turn, could not move with the front locker disengaged. After a few hours, I got out of it without loosing the rig.
- Hydro assist steering (PSC) with cooler.
Now I'm wheeling places most would never take a rig...
More and more often I'm watching fellow Jeepers need to get winched out of situations. On one trip, rig in front has a winch, rig behind has a winch. Rig up front gets in trouble, cannot self winch out of it... but I cannot help (strap was really bad choice) so, back down the trail to find a point where the rig behind (with winch) can get by me and go recover the lead rig.
- Winch (Warn).

This took 3 years.


Continue to wheel...
Torn the stock fender flares off a few times, once caused it to buckle the drivers side front fender... two will never go back on again, too mangled up.

Next up...
Need to get Steel fenders, torn between MC and PS.
Also, some ledges/holes/undercuts at true 37" tire would be a better situation... plus I could use another 1" clearance under the rig.
Additionally, sometimes 5.13's and the 4:1 case just isn't slow enough... thinking hard on an Atlas 4 speed.
Really need to add a cage!
Probably do Fenders and 37's around Christmas... then cage... maybe cage first is more smart... hmmm... then start saving for the 4spd.

You know, a stretch would be helpfull on some of the waterfalls...

When does it end?

Enjoy.

SheepyTheJKU

Thanks for the write up man. Lots of good info in there. My biggest thing with all of this that I know is going to be my biggest problem is gearing... As this is my DD rig as well the more and more I read the more I think I need to save and do everything at once.... Just to much can go wrong with a part by part build.

Mike H.

Up to you, but, I could never have justified spending ~$25k all at once... with another ~$10 to go.
I do not do my own work (too busy, no longer enjoy it, time is too valuable to me) and the build above is approx. $25k plus the vehicle itself. LAst time I analyzed it, labor was approx. 20% of the cost.
There was other little stuff along the way... diff covers, control arm skids, brake lines, sway bar disconnects (the Rubi elect. is nice for moderate and short trails, but not ideal for the stiffer longer stuff), radiator, lights, axles (bent the stock rears) etc...

Having said all that...
You don't need a built rig to get out and enjoy...
A stock rig with decent all terrains will go some pretty unreal places, it's a very capable vehicle. I wheeled a stock Cherokee (235/75-15's all terrains, skids, disconnects and recovery points... open diff's) for years and saw some great remote country... and the JK is a way more capable/tough vehicle.
You've really got be be going some challenging places to "need" all that "stuff".
Start taking a look at some of the built rigs local to you, and I'd bet a good dollar there few with a scratch/scrape/dent on the armor... most folks will never take a rig where that "stuff" is actually is "used" to get through places. When I take people out on the trail that have never really "wheeled", they are constantly saying "we can't go there" type stuff. I'm not bragging or saying I'm hard core, but, as your skills and confidence in off roading build, so too will your Jeep build.

The reason I had issues/failures, is because I was taking an essentially stock rig on trails where I used to take my built Cherokee (lifted/super swampers/detroits/armor for miles, banged/beat/tore up body, busted out windows...). If I had started all over with my JK, taking it on easy/moderate trails that I cut my teeth/learned to off road on with my Cherokee when it was stock, I'd never have had a problem with the JK. Not a chance.

Again, up to you, but I'd put some armor on it (if it doesn't have factory armor) get some decent all terrains and go enjoy. As your skills/trails progress, you'll know what you need next... you certainly do not need "all of it" to get out there, especially if you are new to off roading, 'cause I'd guess the stock rig is more capable than what your nerves will allow you to take it.