Currie Lower Control Arms:
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 2
From: Boston, MA
Two questions:
How do you get the control arms to seat evenly in the brackets??? Right now they're at an angle...
And:
What's the proper torque setting? It seems like they had an impact wrench put them on at the factory....
How do you get the control arms to seat evenly in the brackets??? Right now they're at an angle...
And:
What's the proper torque setting? It seems like they had an impact wrench put them on at the factory....
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 2
From: Boston, MA
Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't Currie use Johnnie Joints? Just like Claytons I think. Just get a big arse screwdriver in the hole and move the hole. There is 15 degrees of movement in each direction (from center). I had the same problem on the rear but after talking with the Clayton guys that fixed me right up. The only bolt that I did not reuse was passenger upper control arm bolt because you have to cut it to get it out and the drivers lower but the threads on my bolt were afu. You should be fine.
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 2
From: Boston, MA
So... How important is it to be toward the rear? Definitely put mine on with the gold on the front, and I'm not looking forward to lifting her back off the ground again...
Last edited by wayland1985; Aug 10, 2009 at 07:39 PM.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 15,665
Likes: 4
From: Hammond Louisiana
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 2
From: Boston, MA
JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad, CA
The adjustable ends (gold hardware) of front lower control arms mount closest to the frame with the grease fittings pointing up. The bends in the arm face in towards the engine center to give more tire clearance when turning. Replace one arm at a time but do not tighten mounting bolts until all four are installed. Then torque to 125 lbs with the tires on the ground.
JK Freak
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad, CA
By the way, you can replace the arms without lifting the Jeep off the ground at all. Simply use a floor jack or tie down strap to help rotate the axle housing when lining up the bolt holes. It should only be about 3/8" or so.
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 2
From: Boston, MA
Alright... So since I now have to get back under the jeep and rotate the control arms around... how should I go about doing it?
I can only assume that since I need to put the control arms back on with the gold end to the frame (not the axle) that I'll need to swap sides... So both will need to come off.
What's the easiest way of doing this? Should I remove the tires? Do I need to support the axle, or can I support the frame? Or both??? It was a PITA to get the holes to line up the axle to line up, and I really don't have the energy to battle with it again (I'm still sore from Friday!)
If I could get the step-by-step to doing this, I'd appreciate it. I really wish I could get away with them being on the way they are!
I can only assume that since I need to put the control arms back on with the gold end to the frame (not the axle) that I'll need to swap sides... So both will need to come off.
What's the easiest way of doing this? Should I remove the tires? Do I need to support the axle, or can I support the frame? Or both??? It was a PITA to get the holes to line up the axle to line up, and I really don't have the energy to battle with it again (I'm still sore from Friday!)
If I could get the step-by-step to doing this, I'd appreciate it. I really wish I could get away with them being on the way they are!