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Differential cover replacments?

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #41  
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Thinking of replacing my front and rear diff covers as well (Dana 44s) on my Rubicon with a 3" lift and 35s. My front trackbar is a JKS and the rear is a Rock Krawler. My main concern is interference, which is why I have not done it yet. I have read that the Teraflex does not cause any interference but many have a lip that needs to be ground down- saw a review as late at 9/2015. I have read several reviews where the ARB and Poison Spyder ones do cause interference. Trying to pick the best ones is not easy, given this issue.
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #42  
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[QUOTE=Rednroll;4208294]Front and Rear Solid covers installed. Dana 30 front, Dana 44 rear.

@ Rednroll

Nice, I run the same ones!

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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 04:46 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Rednroll
I got the front replaced this weekend. Now I have to do the rear, then I'll post some pics. I wanted to say GREAT call on the Lube Locker gaskets. I couldn't even imagine trying to do this install with RTV sealant by myself. I would have to hold the diffy cover with one hand while trying to thread bolts with the other, all while trying to keep the cover straight so as to not get RTV smeared all over the place with gravity working against me. Now if the axle was off and I had gravity working with me, then RTV might be a one person job. The Lube Locker gaskets made this install much easier. Now to make sure no leaks. One thing I didn't particularly like about the Solid covers when doing the front is with the supplied replacement mounting bolts. They're allen wrench head bolts which made the install more difficult than it needed to be. I was highly considering re-using the OE standard hex head bolts instead but the Solid bolts were longer and due to the thicker cover, combined with the lube locker gasket, I didn't feel comfortable with the shorter length of the OE bolts. The first problem was that I didn't own any allen sockets and needed to go out and purchase some of those so I could put them on my torque wrench. The other problem is tightening the top 3 bolts of the cover is that there is TB interference where there is not enough space to fit a rachet with an allen socket, so I was forced to use a standard allen wrench to tighten the top 3 bolts. Standard Hex head bolts would have been much more preferred since I could use a shallower socket or an open end wrench in the limited space situation on the top 3 bolts and I have a lot more standard hex head tools in my tool boxes to work with for the install. I wonder why Solid chooses to supply allen head bolts with their covers since there seems to be no benefit over standard hex head bolts? The only thing I could figure out is some cosmetic preference.
In the non-jk offroad world, just about every diff cover uses the the allen head bolts. The benefit is the slimmer profile and ease of getting a smaller tool into. They also provide a bit more strength. Solid is focused on the hardcore offroad world and those are the preferred bolts.

We are fans of the Solid covers. For the price, there is nothing better. Downside is that they are not a very slim profile and cause some challenges on late model D60s.
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Old May 5, 2016 | 04:47 PM
  #44  
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Just did a re-gear to 4.56 and new covers.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 06:00 PM
  #45  
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I just finished putting on a Mopar 2in lift and with that lift I added the Teraflex HD adjustable front Track Bar.

It seems the Solid covers with those reinforcement fins don't play well together with the TF Monster Track Bar. I'm getting rubbing clanking and creaking sounds anytime I go up/down small hills and hit bumps. It seems there may be too much of a good thing going on with these Solid HD covers.

I may change these out for the slimmer profile Teraflex covers.




Last edited by Rednroll; Aug 1, 2016 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 06:13 PM
  #46  
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I know a guy who would be interested in the rear cover.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 06:45 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
I know a guy who would be interested in the rear cover.
Once I get motivated to replace these, he can have it.

Anyone for a slightly modified front Dana 30?
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 12:19 AM
  #48  
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If your trackbar is hitting the "fin" thing, you can shave it down. My trackbar contacted mine as well, I simply shaved a little off. I would start there before I bought an entire replacement, but I like my money... It's hard to tell in this picture, but the top right fin is the one I shaved.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 03:34 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
If your trackbar is hitting the "fin" thing, you can shave it down. My trackbar contacted mine as well, I simply shaved a little off. I would start there before I bought an entire replacement, but I like my money... It's hard to tell in this picture, but the top right fin is the one I shaved.
I was thinking about doing that but wasn't sure if that was going to be enough of just trimming the rest of the fin down or if it would continue to hit depending on the amount of flex. I was thinking it was going to suck if my flex ends up being limited on one side by my diffy cover. I haven't even tried out those front quick disco links and figured the problem might get worse if I did.

Last edited by Rednroll; Aug 2, 2016 at 03:42 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 04:05 AM
  #50  
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I'm running 1" of bumpstop on mine with 2.5" of lift and 37s, my tire hits the grill under full stuff but my trackbar still doesn't touch the diff cover. I do have the Rock krawler track bar so I have it rolled forward too.
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